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Old 08-14-2010, 09:21 AM   #61
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Default turns

I have a 35 turn hh torkmaster.And love it.but what dose turns mean?And and what turn is beter for wheel speed and tork.My last ax 10 had a 18.5 turn.I now see people running 7 turn motors.what dose it all mean?
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:55 AM   #62
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Hey John, i just ordered 2 HHSP45's through SK (HH site only had one in stock, needed 2), for my XR10
I would imagine these are a more simplified motor, without adjustable timings?
Any extra advice or information would be fantastic.

Do you recommend a break in, or are they already broken in?
Thanks much, can't wait to try these motors!
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:51 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurster View Post
I have a 35 turn hh torkmaster.And love it.but what dose turns mean?And and what turn is beter for wheel speed and tork.My last ax 10 had a 18.5 turn.I now see people running 7 turn motors.what dose it all mean?
The turn is the number of wire wraps around each segment. Higher turn motors make more torque per amp, lower turn motors make more power (and speed) for a given voltage.

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Originally Posted by DA1378 View Post
Hey John, i just ordered 2 HHSP45's through SK (HH site only had one in stock, needed 2), for my XR10
I would imagine these are a more simplified motor, without adjustable timings?
Any extra advice or information would be fantastic.

Do you recommend a break in, or are they already broken in?
Thanks much, can't wait to try these motors!

The instructions that come with them will give you good detail about the motors. They are timing adjustable, and the brushes have been seated but not fully broken in. Follow the instructions and you will be good to go!
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:53 AM   #64
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Thanks for the the response. look forward to using these motors.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #65
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Default Holmes Torquemaster 540 35t 6s?

I've searched but not sure if this was answered or asked.

I have 2x torquemaster 35T brushed motors that will be carried by 2 of the Br-xl esc's. The esc's can handle 6s but how about the motors?
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:33 AM   #66
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4s max for the 35t, 3s recommended.
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:53 AM   #67
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Thank you..
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:35 AM   #68
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Hi John, I've got a couple questions for you.

I'm running a 10t puller (unchanged timing) in my heavy scaler and it's going to be running on 4s. Normally it will occasionally see water, but I plan on running TTC events which will include some mud from time to time and I'm sure this could hurt the motor. I was considering wrapping a paper coffee filter around the open end of the motor to help keep solid stuff from getting inside. I also run in dusty conditions and figured this would help with that issue, too. Do you have any thoughts on this?

I read that you said if the motor is sparking it may need some comm work done. I'm not sure if the motor is sparking at all (I'll check soon), but assuming it's not, how could I determine if the springs or brushes are due for replacement?

Lastly, I remember in my racing days years ago we would take some sort of eraser to polish/clean the comm. Is that a practice you would recommend?

Thanks for your time!
Tommy
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:05 PM   #69
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If your motor does get dirty, a comm stick or eraser can be used to buy some time between comm cuts. If the motor is sparking, you may just need to adjust timing a bit.

What I do on cobalt pullers that need protection is to put shrink wrap or tape over the vent holes. Keeps most debris out.
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:35 PM   #70
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Thanks, John!
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:33 PM   #71
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Ive got a dumb question, i suspect my torquemaster pro 45t has dropped a coil? ....3 different sets of brushes...2 different sets of springs..(can and endbell is cleanno debris)..motor wont start on its own but spins ok if spun then given power....also theier is a definite week spot in the brakes when turn by hand out of the gearboxes......ive been running them on 3s since sept in a xr10..never really got hot and was still running on the original brushes....front motor was about 1/2 way down and rear has a little more...im lost...maybe just dropped a coil? ....it started to stall a bit in the front 3 comps ago and figured it was a bearing or something in the axles but it just got worse...swapped motors around front to rear...motor is the end failure...can you buy just the armature?

Last edited by flapjack; 04-15-2011 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:48 AM   #72
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I have a question. How do you know if your motor needs attention? i have been running my 35t's for a bit. Went to crawl some last night and my wheel speed was down some after a short bit. Thought maybe it was the battery but went to charge it and it only took about 265 MAH in so the battery was good. I have had these motors sincere January and have run them with about a pack a wheel since with no maintenance at all. I also have not checked motor or esc temps at all.
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Old 05-07-2011, 07:08 AM   #73
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John, I'm in the process of re-assembling my 10t puller and have a couple questions about the process. In your first post, you mention:

Quote:
3. Screw the endbell down until the armature does not wiggle in the motor case, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn until the brushes line up.
I assume the intent is to get the shaft into the bearing to support it? I did that, but the brushes were only half way down onto the comm. Shouldn't I screw down the endbell 'til the entire brush surface is on the comm? I guess ultimately I'm just unclear as to how far to screw down the endbell.

Or are you talking about wiggling in the axial direction of the armature?

Lastly, are there no markings on the can to show North/South or pos/neg to help ensure the motor is spinning the right direction upon initial assembly or is it just a 50/50 shot?

Last edited by Tommy R; 05-07-2011 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:48 AM   #74
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Well, I screwed in the endbell until the brushes lined up with the slight wear marks in the comm and snugged it down. Wow, it took quite a bit of torque on those two screws to secure the endbell. Glad I got a dab of Loctite on them! I eyeballed the timing as best I could and after testing it's not throwing any sparks in forward and very few at WOT in reverse. So I think it should be fine now.
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:30 AM   #75
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Glad you got it sorted. I normally take the weekend off from posting to give me a few days off from work.
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:34 AM   #76
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Glad you got it sorted. I normally take the weekend off from posting to give me a few days off from work.
Oh, no worries at all, John! It was Mother's Day weekend so I didn't expect a reply that quickly. I just made the determination that it really wasn't "too" critical how far the endbell was screwed down as long as the brushes are making good contact. Is it pretty normal for the two screws to have a pretty good amount of torque on them?

Can't wait to put this rig through its paces in Montana....and hopefully in the TTC!
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:38 AM   #77
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Some puller endbells do take a fair amount of torque to cinch down. As long as you aren't stripping things out it is just fine.
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:42 AM   #78
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Some puller endbells do take a fair amount of torque to cinch down. As long as you aren't stripping things out it is just fine.
Excellent! Thanks, John!
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:24 PM   #79
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Default Re: Caring for your new Brushed motor

Bump...ha ha. So, I've only had experience with brushless motors in the past. I recently built an xr10 with 2 rockstar motors. They are sparking like mad, I thought that was normal until reading this thread. Now in order to stop the sparking should I advance the timing? If so how much? Also, why did they ship like this? You would think a company like Novak would ship products that are ready to use. Thanks for any insight...

Jay.

Last edited by jayrat; 08-01-2012 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:24 PM   #80
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Default Re: Caring for your new Brushed motor

I think there might be something wrong with my motor... it sounds different than it did before, very high pitched sounding I guess you would say and it seems to be sparking quite a bit... is this normal? Here is a short video. Motor sparking. - YouTube
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