x2 :cry:, that was what made me pull the trigger on this thing. .. . o well, as long as it works good it could still be worth it. .. .

I'm running 4ws on Peanut now with this ESC. I have a Hitec 5995 (333 oz/in) up front and a Hitec 645 (133 oz/in) in the rear. Both are running off the internal BEC.

I have not experienced any steering issues while running 3S LiPo, a 21T HHH 540, 22/81 gearing, and Hot Bodies Rovers. The wheels are Axial 2.2 8 holes with a full wrap of weight on all four wheels.

I have been extremely happy with the performance of this ESC so far.

If you solder to the outside of the post it would allow the plug to be used later. I would recommend using the bullets but soldering the wire on sideways, it is very handy to have those plugs there.


We are still working on the throttle curves, it is in the works.

I have seen a few issues with really high torque servos, it is true that the internal BEC just doesn't match the power of the Castle BEC. I don't know if we can ever really get around using an external BEC on the very high performance setups. The next ESC I am designing will try to address this in one way or another.

Most setups won't need an external BEC, but if you are really pushing the rig hard or competing it may be worth it to have one handy for testing.

And just for the entertainment value......

A BRXL, HH 3s Lipo, and gray can HHH 35t motor powered my shafty rig to a win at the last weekend's NWARC comp at the "fake dams" site.

No issues at all with the BEC and JR8711 servo. Had to wiggle the servo to get the front end to slide through one gate.

"thumbsup"

Good to hear about the throttle curves, let me know if you need any testing or something done. The sooner that can be released the better."thumbsup"

As for the BEC, I think the internal one will be fine for the 1.9 scalers, but everything else is going to have to go back to the external.

So that be a good reason for my 7955 stallin out alot, i thought i burnt up my servo because no one else was having this problem, i hope dual esc will fix this because i'm getting ready to order one, i was also wondering can i send back an esc to get it waterproofed

I'm just running one esc in the stuff I have these esc's in. The higher input voltage you run the less amps the BEC can output. That goes for all BEC units including the CC external BEC. This is the reason why my berg running 4s lipo and a Hitec 7950 is really lacking power. I'm sure on 3s it wouldn't be as bad and on 5s it would be a lot worse. If you were to run two escs it should theoretically allow the amps from both BEC's to go to the servo while maintaining the 6v. Will the reciever be able to handle the power? No idea, it might burn it up, it might be fine, JRH will have to chime in on that. I have run an external CC BEC along with the internal bec of a sidewinder or mamba maxx together in a spektrum reciever and never had a problem though.

I'm planning on running dual hh esc's, a 7955 on a ar600 (the DSM spektrum airplane receiver) I hope it doesn't burn up

thanks for the response...when I ran my cc bec on my spektrum RX it really seemed to hate any Volts above 6v(lots of random glitches)...but now I'm running a 4pk and although I have not tried it yet Harley tells me the futaba stuff is rated at 9v to the RX...hopefully thats true cause I think I will be ok it that's the case.?

The Spektrum RX's are rated to 9.6V. I've ran all of mine at 7.4V and never had a problem. Regardless though, voltage and amperage are totally different. Just because the RX can handle more voltage doesn't mean that it will be able to handle more amps at a lower voltage, such as running dual bec's at 6V. The RX won't see a difference between the single bec or the dual bec as far as voltage, it will still see 6V.

so a spectrum rx can handle dual hh speed controls also will i have double the amperage so my servo will not stall any more

I'm not putting the motor amp load on the ESC that a MOA rig would, I run a DNA SS chassis with two servo's and a single motor.

My servo's are a Z9100T for steering, and a 225MG for dig shifting. The 225mg's are leftovers from upgrading my T-Rex 500's servos. I run 2S and 3S lipo's with a 35T handwound arm in a EPIC Cobalt II can. With the 2S/3S batteries, there is no noticeable servo stalling, even when dig shifting-full-throttle-full-steering lock.

I decided to "stuff" one of my 5S T-Rex packs into it and noticed the steering was lacking when "on" throttle/dig/full lock steering. The 6S T-Rex pack(6s1p 30C 2650mah), made it even worse. It would not steer when using full throttle and dig. Trying to dig, while steering, blipping the throttle, it was fine. Even with the 6S pack.

I only used the 5S and 6S packs to see what would happen. I don't own any 4S packs, so I can't comment on those. For "NORMAL" people who rarely go above 3S, you don't need a BEC. I'm not going to use a BEC with this ESC, I'll never want to see my motor arcing like it did with the 5S/6S packs.

Awesome ESC. Just being able to use 4/5/6S Lipo's is a benefit, and tribute to how stout this ESC seems to be. You don't need to go any faster, you're crawling.

The RX "should" be able to handle both bec at the same time. It should also allow the amperage of both bec's to combine for the servo. I'm not guaranteeing it won't fry something, but I think it'll be fine.:ror: Give it a shot and tell how it works."thumbsup"

Thanks for trying that out and giving us all of this good information."thumbsup"
Like I was stating earlier, on all bec's, the higher the input voltage the lower the output amperage of the bec. In turn, this equals less steering power under high load of the servo. The heavier the rig and the heavier the wheels you are trying to turn the more you are going to notice the lack of power. Also, with the higher torque digital servos, such as your 7950's 7955's and 8711's, you are going notice the lack of power a lot more than cheaper analog servo's such as a 645 or 985.

Is there really only one left in stock John or do you have more available? Putting together a group order for the local guys and I was hoping to order some later this week.

Almost out of stock here, but a few more hundered are scheduled to come in pretty quick.

Seeing that V1.05(Beta) is out. :mrgreen::mrgreen: This must to be the update that you talked about a few weeks ago. It has the option for Drag Brake Type...Passive or Holmes Hold.


*******EDIT********
Guess it still needs some work. I just put the Holmes Hold on my SCX10 with a 30T HH TMP HW and it shutters pretty bad. I also put in on my Berg with a pair a 35T Warriors and it did the same thing. The Passive Hold is great....little better drag brake.

Here's a link to a vid....

http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/e...00102_3253.flv

Yeah my Bully does the same. It got better when i turned the drag brake to about 30%

What voltage and settings? I got mine to act right on 6s lipo at 90% drag and Hold turned on. Try turning down the drag % until it stops glitching, then report back. This will help me find the line of strength for future revisions. Right now it is obviously too strong.


What voltage and motors?


The info I need is the drag %, motor wind and type, and voltage used during the issue. We have already gone through a few revisions on this, and I thought this one would be "weak" enough to stop the glitching. The higher the voltage, the worse it gets.

Also, try out the Quiet mode and tell me what you think at really low throttle inputs, VS normal.

I tried the new update today, Titan 21t on 1700 35c 3S, 100% drag... shutters at neutral throttle. Went back to the older version and it's great. I'll try turning down the dragbrake and see 8)