Puller Pro Brushless 4 pole Rock Crawler motors- Lay down the Power!

[GLHS592]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I would put a 3300 stubby or 3500 540 in my own Bomber. Stubby if crawler/trail dedicated, and 540 if it was for rock racing.

I have it narrowed down to those two motors. I just can't decide. Would the 3500 540 crawl ok? How fast would those two motors be in the Bomber? Also, I was looking at at Castle MMP. Do I really need the fan? Would the TrailMaster BLE Pro be a better choice for a trailer/crawler/occasional bashing?

[Silent Panda]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I would put a 3300 stubby or 3500 540 in my own Bomber. Stubby if crawler/trail dedicated, and 540 if it was for rock racing.


2200kv stubby is also popular for crawling. A bit slow for my tastes, but I like having enough wheelspeed to jump a trail rig. I like 15 to 20mph in most rigs.

OK...I ordered a stubby 3300 from you guys today...is that gonna have the ass to jump it? of should I change to STD 3500?

[SCREAMER]

Your going to be very pleasantly surprised at how much "ass" these motors have.

[Silent Panda]

I was very pleased with the speed of the delivery of my new parts from Holmes...that is for sure. Got the next day with express shipping...outstanding Holmes Team! Makes me want a servo too.

[TAT76]

Yesterday I ordered a BL esc and a 3300kv stubby for my G6 wraith build. I'm hoping the stubby was the right choice and am now wondering what gearing and Cells I should run with. I like 2s as I can swap them in my other race trucks but if a 3-4s is going to give me better results then so be it.
Crawling/Trail G6 style. Max speed of 10mph and long run times. Gearing and lipo recommendations?
Thanks

[mikebecher]

JRH preaches "Volt up! Gear down!" and I agree 100%. I recommend running 3s and you can gear way down but still have a decent top-end. I run an AX2 tranny so I can't say for sure between 5:1 and 6:1 should be fine. This website is useful to calculate the relative speeds with different gear ratios and batteries.

[TAT76]

Thanks Mike, very useful link. Stock is 56/12 so I think I'll drop down to a 10 that will give me a 5.6:1 to start with.

[SCREAMER]

I said I would report back with my feelings on the 2200kv Puller Pro compared to the 3500kv PP I had in my Wraith. First off this turned out to be apples to oranges because the 2200kv in my RR10 Feels just as fast as the 3500kv was in my Wraith. The Wraith was geared at 56/12 and my RR10 is geared at 64/13. Both ran off a MMP and both on 3s. The 2200kv does seem to have even better low speed control which was one of my goals for the new motor choice. The 2200 also seems to get warmer than my 3500 did. I'm going to drop pinion to 12 to see how that feels. Not hot by any means just warmer than my 3500 ever got and that was this last August. I'm in 40 degree ambient temps now so should be running cooler. Overall I love the motor and it's just as good as the 3500 I had. I do have one issue that maybe someone can help me with.

I had to drop the forward throttle endpoint to 80% because at 100% at a standing full throttle start it would cog horrendously with a loud noise, sputter for a second, and then take off like normal. If I'm already rolling a bit I can hammer down and there is no cog or hesitation but I have to be moving at the same speed that the cog stops when I full throttle start. I tried 3 different batteries, checked gear mesh, everything rolls smooth when power is off, no binding in the drivetrain anywhere. Any ideas? I also swapped the sensor wire for one I know is good because I checked it on the 3500 before I pulled it. Thanks for any help guys.

[mikebecher]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I had to drop the forward throttle endpoint to 80% because at 100% at a standing full throttle start it would cog horrendously with a loud noise, sputter for a second, and then take off like normal. If I'm already rolling a bit I can hammer down and there is no cog or hesitation but I have to be moving at the same speed that the cog stops when I full throttle start. I tried 3 different batteries, checked gear mesh, everything rolls smooth when power is off, no binding in the drivetrain anywhere. Any ideas? I also swapped the sensor wire for one I know is good because I checked it on the 3500 before I pulled it. Thanks for any help guys.

Just throwing this out there - is it possibly the slipper?

[XSRCdesign]

Geared too high?

[SCREAMER]

It's not the slipper. Definitely an electronic noise from the motor. The slipper whines. This is a buzzy noise. If it was geared too high it would do this on the top end plus I'm only 1 extra tooth on the pinion from stock. Others have added more than that with no problems.

[GLHS592]

I had pretty much decided on the Puller Pro 3300 Stubby. You have me 2nd guessing my choice, Screamer. What to do?

[HahnsB2]

No such issue in my Wraith, I do run some punch control though, have you tried that?

[Silent Panda]

Originally Posted by GLHS592

I had pretty much decided on the Puller Pro 3300 Stubby. You have me 2nd guessing my choice, Screamer. What to do?

I have the 3300 Stubby in my Bomber with stock gears. I can def gear down and have a fast truck it is pretty punchy now. I am running 2s...totally happy with my choice.

[SCREAMER]

I was thinking about punch control to "hide" the issue. How much are you running? Thanks Hahns.

GLHS, I would advise doing more research before making that final decision. Are you going to be running 2s or 3s? Also, I'd recommend spending 10 extra dollars and buying the standard instead of the stubby. You've got plenty of room even for an XL, the only reason to choose a stubby, IMHO, is because you have space issues. The standard size will give you more of everything that's good about these motors and not have to work so hard doing what you want it to do. Should run cooler too if I'm not mistaken. You're definitely on the right track buying Holmes.

[GLHS592]

I was planning to run 3s. I don't have any 2s that will fit the battery compartment. I guess I could go with the standard and gear down if needed. I think the MMP is the esc I'll get. I'm still new at this brushless stuff.

[JohnRobHolmes]

You will need some punch control and medium or low startup power. On 3s the 2200 will ask for about 1000amps with full throttle at standstill. The taller gearing of the bomber keeps it stalled long enough to be a problem.

[SCREAMER]

Great info, thanks a lot Mr. Holmes! Currently I'm set to high startup power because the 3500 seemed to like it better and am also running zero punch control. I will make those changes and report back. I know some guys on here crunched the numbers and found gearing to be similar to a stock Wraith but after some real life testing and my own personal experience so far, it would absolutely seem that the bomber has much taller final gearing than a stock Wraith so all bets are off when it comes to comparing the two.

[HahnsB2]

I'm on high startup power with 25% punch control. I'm actually thinking about drop the PC a bit, with the same settings the Trailmaster Pro felt like it had more snap from a dead stop, not that a I need more but

[JohnRobHolmes]

The stock Bomber gearing is the same as the stock wraith, but different factory tires and foam may yield higher actual rollout on the bomber. Your additional geardown in the Wraith with 3500kv motor will allow for higher startup power and less punch control. The faster a motor can spin out of zero RPM, the faster the efficiency rises and turns those amps into torque. This is also why your 2200kv motor is running warmer, it is simply spinning slower and using more amps to compensate. But do not consider the 2200kv setup to be worse,



General rules to live by: When two systems are set up for the same wheelspeed but with different KV (or voltage) and gearing, the system with higher KV (or voltage) and geardown will generally perform better in all ways. Faster motor RPM is good, within limits of the motor and ESC ability. Motors spinning at zero RPM have zero efficiency, so it is best to get them away from zero as quickly as possible. Less amp draw is good, with no exception. If we can spin a motor twice as fast for a given load, it will reduce non-idle amp draw by 1/2 and increase system efficiency in every power component.

Volt up (or kv up) and gear down MF'ers!