how much does it weigh compered to a integy 35t motor?

yeah... it's too bad, but good in a way, technology progresses, and we are in a transition phase

and as for the graupner motors, they are awesome, but VERY expensive.

Even if they were cheaper,I'd still buy from John. Simply because he's the coolest.

Yup yup!! Try to get another company to help you solve problems or answer questions about motors for your crawler. 8)

yep, i would too, and i was not suggesting to buy from someone else... i hope you know that....

Thanks guys :lol:

You don't get the assurance that its a good set-up or the JRH seal of approval buying some where else!
"thumbsup"

Did a little bit of testing with a 10 turn cobalt puller motor this weekend. Let me start by saying this motor could possibly kill the brushless revolution. "thumbsup"

I put it in Tyler's Bumblebee K5 since the extra length of this motor fits no problem in a Reign K2 chassis. Set up was TLT axles, Pede tranny, 14/87 grearing, 6 cell NiMh subC Venom pack. First I ran it with a Rooster Crawler. No problems at all so far. The bottom end punch is awesome and the throttle control is butter smooth.

Here's the big kicker, I threw in my old Super Rooster and guess what. The Cobalt Puller does come with it's own drag brake. :shock: Using an ESC with no drag brake I found that the motor's magnets were so powerful that they would provide drag brake. Now that's awesome. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup" Break out those old Super Roosters guys.

My only regret is that I can't get it to fit in my GC-1 chassis comp rig. :x I want so bad to run this thing in a comp rig. I'll try to get some video and more thoughts on this motor this week but after only a couple hours I can tell you I love this motor.

John,
Please awnser my pm's i'm trying to contact you for over ea week now;-)

I have had to turn my drag brake down to use the motor on downhill sections :lol: Why wont the motor fit in a CG-1, does it hit the links?




I will look through, I must have missed yours. Thank you for the heads up.

The tranny position puts the motor housing inline with the chassis sideplate and the cutout is not big enough. A lathe motor has maybe 1/4" clearance between the chassis and the endbell. Also there isn't enough chassis material there to remove and make room for the motor.
These shots will explain what I am saying.
Clicky me

May have missed it, but what trans are you running? I was wanting to run an R2D w/ one in Da Bull, but I doubt it will fit.

JRH- You got a PM from me too from sometime last month.:)

with thos cobalt motor you have to use sub-c's or lipos isn't it ?
or doesnt this motor have any influence on the discharge level?:?:

may i ask whay these motors are so expensive, ooh well comp drivers do what is takes to be the best on the rocks is it not!!;-)

I'm running a pede tranny. I'm gonna figure something out eventually, this motor is too good not to use.

Destroyer, could you send again, I cant find your PM. It has probably been deleted if it was indeed a month ago, old messages last about ten days in my inbox.

Crawl Rookie, the motors are expensive because of the construction. The magnets are powerful, the armature is harder to make. Unfortunatly once the current stock is gone the price will go up even further. These motors were made a few years back and to make them now will be more expensive, mostly because of the increasing cost of magnets and the fact that few factories make brushed motors anymore.

I've had mine for a couple of weeks and still LOVE it...

Just ordered another.

Thank you JRH for such great products and even better service...

Just re-sent."thumbsup"

Thanks Grizz. So you are looking at maybe 2.75" total trans/motor length (not including the input shaft sticking out the front)?

It is 2.5" from front to back when mounted up. Then there are two wires coming out, but they are flexable.

Not sure of that measurement. I measured from the front edge of the tranny to the end of the puller motor. I've got to remember the number now.

Edit: 1.5" as shown in the pic below.

i have tested some others
Plettenberg 200/ and 290/.. , Promax , Cermark and Mega
but the best is the Astro Pullmaster 05
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/10/28110075043.jpg

And Astro wont make them for me, I literally threw money at Bob and he refused. He does know a thing or two about making motors.

Secret is out of the bag now, there are many astroflight motors that will work depending on the application. My super will wheel stand with pullmaster 1 motors and you can not stall it. Wheel speed is nits on 3 cell


Arg,, prices are going to go thru the roof now.

I have seen JRH motors in action and they are very simular and are a excellent motor also,maybe even better since the brush hoods are not external and those tend to getin the way of things.

John Robert ...are you having anyluck finding a supplier to continue reproducing these ?

I know who's making them:-P:-P

I just ran the 10 turn tonight. I like it ALLOT better than the 5 turn I ran in the Nationals. Mainly cause it's allot happier in my 12 pound super.

I was able to loose the gear reduction and gain a small amount of wheelspeed. The 5 turn worked great but got a little to warm pushing my pig around. The 10 turn pushed it around VERY easy and was running cooler than the 5 turn by a long shot. Sorry,no temp gun...but I can tell by the touch,the 10 turn is ALLOT happier. I ran it HARD for about 20 minutes and still had pleanty of power left. It started POURING the rain so I had to put it up. I played a few minutes on the firewood stack in the shop till I managed to bust the gears in my front diff. STEEL HELICAL GEARS....1:8 SCALE BUGGY STUFF.....SHREDDED:lol: It also twisted one of my 1:8 scale universal shafts nearly a 1/2 turn.:lol:

This babies got the mustard! Still doesn't have the GRUNT power of my 3025-8 but I tell ya,these things are AWESOME little motors. PLEANTY of power for crawling. As much as I tried.....I could NOT stall it out. It would pull itself out of the bind every time.

I was running on 9 cells and I'm happy with it. I'm a sucker for wheelspeed though. I'm gonna swap some diffs around from my other Twin Force axles laying around. I'll try to run a few different packs tommorrow to see what this motors like with 6,7,8......maybe even 10-12 cells:twisted:


I'm not saying the 5 turn is junk,it's a great little motor. For a heavier rig,the 10 turn is the better choice. The 5 turn would be a good choice for a 3-5 pound 2.2 rig. It'd probably have better run times and run cooler than it did in my pig of a super. Personally though,if I was gonna put a Colbalt puller in a 2.2,I'd run the 10 turn.

I'm gonna do some serious running with this motor over the next week or so just to see how it handles different things. As of right now,the results I see so far....this is my motor of choice. I REALLY like this thing.

yeah, in my GC-1 i had to trim the plates some to get my r2d and a lathe motor to barely fit. too bad cause i would love to try one of these motors too. Even when i had an SW3, i couldnt get a pede or r2 to fit with a mag mayhem

I now have replacement brushes for these, and have a replacement armature source as well. For those of you who want one but can't fit it into your chassis, I have something on the way for you too. ;)

:shock: how far out is shorter motor?"thumbsup"

2-3 months depending on how smooth the proto's go.

sweet.the motors will not be losing much power if any getting shorter will they?

A touch, but it won't be much to shake a stick at. Smaller motors always have less power, but these will be a lot more power than a ceramic mag motor.

Great news John!! "thumbsup"

Cant wait to see them"thumbsup"

Cool! I can't fit the 2 1/2" one in my SW3, so I'll be looking for the smaller version.

John right now im running my light 2.2 tuber with with a mamba max, 6 cells nimh, an r2d with the 8 tooth, jordans, and wk axles, and a 27turn motor. i used to run a 55 turn but it was way to slow. The 27 turn is better but i still want more wheel speed. I know more voltage is in my future but am also thinking about one of these. Does a 5 turn on 8 2/3a cells make sense for me?

The 5 turn spins at around 2800 rpm/volt, so it will be faster than most 27t motors. On 8 cells it would really light up the tires and give you all kids of power and throttle control. It is my pick for 2.2 comp use right now.

JohnRobHolmes, how do you feel the 5t motor would do outside of a crawling application?

I am looking for a motor to replace the stock silver can motor in a Kyosho Blizzard. I'm hoping for more torque and speed, while still being able to run off a standard 6 cell pack and regular ESC.

Do you think the 5t Cobalt motor would succeed in this application?

Please let me know your thoughts.

I think the 5t would be pretty good on 6 cells, and the 7t as well with some forward timing.

What's the word on these shorter motors?

Sounds good. Is the timing adjustable on the 5t as well (I'm assuming so)?

Nothing yet, still in the last parts of the design phase.

Yes it is.

Excellent. Thanks for the quick replies.

Now I just need to convince myself that I can justify a $70 motor for a $180 Snowcat.............

:)