HH Cobalt Puller- Reborn page 35!

[Badmuthatrucker]

Originally Posted by rusty577

Hi I have standard drivetrain scx10 with a Novak Rooster esc and axial 55t motor that I plan to replace with either the Cobalt Puller 10t or Torquemaster Pro 35T... I'll be running 3000mah 2S lipo's.

What would be a better choose of motor for more wheel speed then the axial 55t without loosing torque?

Pretty much any of John's motors.... But I'll let the experts get to the specifics.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by dezrik

Would you recommend a 10t or 14t for 4Cell? Im planning on running a r2 2speed with disconnect or a summit trans. and it will be in a pretty heavy super (huge tuber project). At the same time I want to be able to stick the puller in my Twin force and bash around. Is the br-xl a good match for the puller motor? and Is the internal bec powerful enough to run one HS7980th?

I would recommend the 14t for 4s in a heavy rig. We are getting another batch wound up now, should be here in a few weeks.

The BRXL would be a good bet, but on such a heavy rig the internal BEC will probably not keep up with the servo demand.

Originally Posted by CaptainSafety

I have to compliment holmes hobbies on these amazing motors. I have a scx10 mostly stock that I put a 10t and torque master esc on. At 2 s the truck crawls better than with a 55t lathe. The low speed resolution is ridiculous. The truck would pull itself even with the absolute minimum input I could apply. Bump it up to 4s and wow. Low speed resolution has dropped off somewhat , but the overall feel of the truck is amazing. I'm currently running it a 4s on 2 blue lipo 2200 packs in series and I am in heaven. This is the setup I will have from now on in all my crawlers.

Amazing product John. I tip my hat to you.

Thank you sir!

Originally Posted by rusty577

Hi I have standard drivetrain scx10 with a Novak Rooster esc and axial 55t motor that I plan to replace with either the Cobalt Puller 10t or Torquemaster Pro 35T... I'll be running 3000mah 2S lipo's.

What would be a better choose of motor for more wheel speed then the axial 55t without loosing torque?

Going to a handwound will help out greatly, but getting a Puller will really light up the rig. Both will give greater torque and wheelspeed. The puller will likely have shorter runtime, as when people have the power they tend to use it! I would recommend a 7t if you plan to use 2s lipo, and the 10t if you are thinking about using 3s in the future.

[CreepyCrawl]

John, I'm thinking of rebuilding my 2.2 Axial with a BWD SSS-R chassis with no dig, my FX-R and a 7T Puller.

I've been running Thunder Power 3s packs for the past two years and really like the power. I understand that the 7T can overheat on 3s, but with a light set up and more of a finesse, only nail it when needed driving style, would it still be prone to substantial overheating? I run stock 14/87 gearing as well.

I briefly had a 10T on 3s but found something lacking in the overall feel.

[JohnRobHolmes]

If you are careful on the throttle the 7t on 3s will certainly work well. I would suggest using a 12t pinion.

[CreepyCrawl]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

If you are careful on the throttle the 7t on 3s will certainly work well. I would suggest using a 12t pinion.

Noted...thank you sir.

[kuatto]

Originally Posted by kuatto

Are you replacing the puller motors that are no longer available for the heavy rigs like the 12,10 and 7 turn ones?

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Once these pullers are sold out, yes I will have a replacement brushed and brushless version to take the place. The brushed will be a 550 flavor, and the brushless is still getting made.

I know your swamped with all the new motors and orders,just thought I would ask how the replacements for the 12 and bigger turns for the puller are going?

Thanks
Jim

[JohnRobHolmes]

I have 10t arms here, and am getting another round of 14t arms made right now. Still working on the replacement motors too, they are just taking some serious time.

[Tommy R]

John,

I'm running your BR-XL and a 10t puller. It runs fine on 3s, but I would prefer to run it on 4s (suitably geared down and not abused). I suspect this scenario would be okay as long as I watch the motor temp, but if I get voted into the TTC event at Nationals this year, I would like to run 6s for events such as the mud bog and the truck pull. Do you think this combo will be okay for short durations or should I just stick with 4s.....or even 3s for all events?

This is in my 2.2 scaler which weighs about 10.5 lbs.

Thanks!
Tommy

[JohnRobHolmes]

I would recommend 4s max for the 10t arm. But for a short time you may have luck with 5s. 6s will beat it hard, so if you are willing to tear it down then you may give it a shot.

[Tommy R]

Thanks for the quick reply, John. I think I'll just stick with 4s in that case.

[Tortuga275]

Hey John I was planning on picking up one of the puller combos on your site, and saw that 3s is recommended for the 7t. Would 2s be not enough?

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I would recommend 4s max for the 10t arm. But for a short time you may have luck with 5s. 6s will beat it hard, so if you are willing to tear it down then you may give it a shot.

John, what kind of max temps would be considered "safe" for this 10t puller on 4s? Mine is running pretty warm (often too hot to the touch) and I want to make sure it's not getting excessively hot from the added voltage.

[JohnRobHolmes]

We recommend 160f max measured on the can. The windings can take 200c, the magnets can take 200c. My only concern would be the commutator above 150c. Running the motor hotter than 160f is no problem, it is just our good life recommendation.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

We recommend 160f max measured on the can. The windings can take 200c, the magnets can take 200c. My only concern would be the commutator above 150c. Running the motor hotter than 160f is no problem, it is just our good life recommendation.

Excellent! Thanks a lot, John!

[Stuntman Jim]

What is the proper way to oil the bearings in a Puller? I've tried a whole lot of different oils but every other time the motor (don't know the word here) starts sparking and running bad until I clean the motor out.

[Tommy R]

John, do you have any 14t pullers in stock that could be shipped Next Day or possible 2nd Day Air? I would need it by Tuesday or at the latest, Wednesday.

Thanks!

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by Stuntman Jim

What is the proper way to oil the bearings in a Puller? I've tried a whole lot of different oils but every other time the motor (don't know the word here) starts sparking and running bad until I clean the motor out.

Try a very light 3 in 1 or bearing oil. You may be adding too much. Apply it with a toothpick so that excess oil does not get into the motor.

Originally Posted by Tommy R

John, do you have any 14t pullers in stock that could be shipped Next Day or possible 2nd Day Air? I would need it by Tuesday or at the latest, Wednesday.

Thanks!

Looks like I missed the boat on this one, unless I hit it via email. Email is always the best way for emergency shipments.

[Stuntman Jim]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Try a very light 3 in 1 or bearing oil. You may be adding too much. Apply it with a toothpick so that excess oil does not get into the motor.

So something like WD40 then? I even tried using SAE 50 motor oil and applying it with a small plastic seal band, didn't work.

Double thanks!!

[JohnRobHolmes]

WD40 isn't a lubricant, it has more solvents than oil. Sewing machine oil would be better.

[RCram]

This might be more general but is it just speed that causes heat in these motors? I am running a 10t on 3s in a scx10 and mine got pretty warm just crawling around. Does using the drag break add heat? Thanks