HH Cobalt Puller- Reborn page 35!

[TrailAddict]

I know this thread has not seen a post about the original Cobalt puller in a long time, but I've just scored a Cobalt puller 7t off the classified, and after reading this thread completely, I haven’t seen a single mention of my concern. The puller that I have acquired has very short leads coming out of the motor, is there any way to completely change a Cobalt puller’s motor lead or will I have to simply splice them to make them longer?

Thanks

[JohnRobHolmes]

You will have to take it apart and solder in new ones, or just splice the ones you have and don't worry.

[TrailAddict]

Thanks for the quick reply . I think I'll take the motor appart and solder new leads, it will just look way cleaner than splicing.

[TrailAddict]

I was wondering, I saw in one of the older posts that you had a bunch of unwound armature for the original Cobalt puller, so that you could make custom winds. Do you still have them? I would one day like to convert my soon to be received (still in the mail) Cobalt puller 7t to a 10t armature. Could you still make a 10t armature for the Cobalt puller?

[JohnRobHolmes]

We wound them all, sorry.

[TrailAddict]

No problem, it’s an old motor after all, I understand. If I send you my motor to get it rebuilt, will that service include the replacement of worn parts (i.e. bearings, brushes, springs) or will I have to add them to my cart so you can rebuild the motor with “my” parts (paid separately by me)? Also, will you hold the other items in my cart so that the motor (rebuilt) and the contents of the cart will be sent in one box?

Thanks

[JohnRobHolmes]

Yes, the service would include replacement of the old parts that you would buy. Heads up, if you need new bearings it is likely that the can will be junked. They don't press out of the can, we have blown out inner races trying to replace bearings before.


If you instruct us to ship your non rebuild parts ahead of the rebuild, we will do so. Put it into the comments box.

[TrailAddict]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

We can do it. It is $10 labor to freshen it all up and replace brushes, plus cost of parts. Replacing the bearings can be tricky, half the time the bearing blows out and leaves the outer race in the can or endbell even with heat used to open up the pocket. Just have to get in there and give it a shot.

Alright, I will hit you up when I need to get my motor rebuilt. I found the post about the tolerances being too tight in the can, that’s a bummer. I think when the motor will be older, I will send it to you and have you try to pry the bearing out. If it works it would be great and if it doesn't I guess I will have lost my motor, if you succed to pull the bearings out would you be able to open up the hole for the bearings? Or would that just be too much work to bring back an old motor back to life?. If I want to try to pull the bearings out myself, what would be the best way to proceed(What temperature to heat the can to, what tools to use)?

Thanks

[Monstergt]

When will the next order of pullers be ready? Its looking like my berg will miss the Southern Showdown without them

[tn crawlin]

Any word on the pullers ?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Cans arrive tomorrow for the next batch. Should take about two weeks to get through the parkerize, paint, magnet process and to receive the face and endbell. In the mean time I'm finishing up the current batch of arms with about 20ish arms left for the next batch.


So gimme a week, then we will refresh inventory and put up 400s and heavy 500s.

[tn crawlin]

Hope mine is on the way out the door for the southern showdown !!!!!!!

[OLI972]

+1
Waiting for mine

[noahzhou]

I got the puller 500 crawl 20t on Saturday. The starup speed is amazing. I love them.

[pat13]

Originally Posted by OLI972

+1
Waiting for mine

+ 1.....30 days.....

[tn crawlin]

Got my pullers in !!!!!! John you did a hell of a job ...... Thanks

[fritzthefly]

got my Puller 500 today ,thanks.

and which Motor are recommended for a Berg Superclass:
Puller 500 , 400 , 520 ?
crawl or flow type ?

[pat13]

got my Puller 500 flow 30T today ,thanks john.

IS IT Normal one of them make a lot of noise and vibrations
even if i hold it in my hand , without screw ?

i think i find the problem :
the endbell touch the commutator ( rotor )

NO the noise stay here .................

Holmes puller 500 flow 30T noise issues PAT13 - YouTube

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by pat13

got my Puller 500 flow 30T today ,thanks john.

IS IT Normal one of them make a lot of noise and vibrations
even if i hold it in my hand , without screw ?

i think i find the problem :
the endbell touch the commutator ( rotor )

NO the noise stay here .................

Holmes puller 500 flow 30T noise issues PAT13 - YouTube

The higher noise from Puller 500s is normal. The stronger magnets and layout makes harder vibrations at each resting point, it is the root of the noise increase VS ceramic magnet motors. One motor may have more noise because of bearing tolerances, it is where I typically find the slight vibration causing noise.

If you have extra shims, sometimes you can make it quiet by shimming the arm so there is no play. This causes quicker bearing wear however, I do not build motors shimmed this tightly.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by fritzthefly

which Motor are recommended for a Berg Superclass:
Puller 500 , 400 , 520 ?
crawl or flow type ?

520 or 500 Flow