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-   -   (HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/holmes-hobbies/89829-hh-tech-questions-customer-support-thread.html)

War Pig 01-20-2010 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Pig (Post 2239522)
Alright John, I have a 14t 480 cobalt that was in my Bronco, and I want to use it in another truck. My issue is that I heated it up real good (I'd estimate 200 degrees at least) and some of the epoxy on one of the windings is black and cracked. It still seems to run OK, but I'm wondering how I can tell if a motor is toast. Will it stop running? Do you have any replacement armatures for it? Thanks, Tim.

Never mind, I got my answer today on the Tank Trap course.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1.../P10809982.jpg

Can you fix that? :mrgreen: BTW, the sound that a cobalt motor makes when it goes from 24,000 RPM's to 0 is not good.........

JohnRobHolmes 01-21-2010 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeepial (Post 2239718)
Brushless updates?8)

Working on it. I have another proto here and am in process of winding it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by THnCS (Post 2242939)
Hey JRH, Looking at building a scaler/rockracer. Goin with your esc and will have 4-6 cell lipo power. What motor do you recommend? I was thinking 35-45t on 6 cells should still crawl but have some wheel speed:twisted: Will your hand wounds take the punishment or just plain integys. because any motor will have a short life with that much power? thanks for the help.

55t on 6s works really nice. Handwound 35t can take 6s, but not machine wound. I don't know how fast the machine wound can be spin before destruction.

It will shorten the life, but you can add a bit of forward timing to help or use a motor with standup brushes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Pig (Post 2244771)
Never mind, I got my answer today on the Tank Trap course.



Can you fix that? :mrgreen: BTW, the sound that a cobalt motor makes when it goes from 24,000 RPM's to 0 is not good.........

Don't send it my way, I have enough stinky electronics here ! :mrgreen:

Not much I can do for the armature, and the magnets are probably toast too. I would consider it scrapped.

Jeepial 01-21-2010 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes (Post 2245168)
Working on it. I have another proto here and am in process of winding it..

Well if you need a tester..I'm your guy..."thumbsup"...Gotta losi moa beggin for dual brushless...8)

greenjeeper92 01-23-2010 12:35 PM

Hello John, im trying to calibrate my esc, i hold full throttle before the battery is pluged in, it then goes to red and beeps, i then go full reverse and it beeps green and red then i go to nuetral and it goes back to fast red but yet i still have no power to the motor, its all connected right

monstercrawl 01-25-2010 10:58 PM

ax10 or lcc steering?
 
Hi im trying to use aluminum ax10 hop ups on my LNC and im wondering what all i have to do to modify things to make it all work. Do i need to completely swap out knuckles and carriers as well as steering links and balls ect, or just a few things?

JohnRobHolmes 01-28-2010 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenjeeper92 (Post 2250437)
Hello John, im trying to calibrate my esc, i hold full throttle before the battery is pluged in, it then goes to red and beeps, i then go full reverse and it beeps green and red then i go to nuetral and it goes back to fast red but yet i still have no power to the motor, its all connected right

You may need to adjust your neutral on the radio. Maybe change the throw of your trigger if you can. Sounds like you aren't getting neutral.

Quote:

Originally Posted by monstercrawl (Post 2256653)
Hi im trying to use aluminum ax10 hop ups on my LNC and im wondering what all i have to do to modify things to make it all work. Do i need to completely swap out knuckles and carriers as well as steering links and balls ect, or just a few things?

Your asking the wrong guy, I don't know parts as well as electronics :lol:

droogin 01-28-2010 03:15 PM

Brush leads
 
What would be the down side of not using the leads that attach to the brushes and are solder to the motor polarity tabs? I am runing dual 35t handwounds and dual FXR's. I still experience clod stall. I thought running dual esc's eliminated clod stall, or could this be due to not using brush leads?

Thanks for your time, Dave

JohnRobHolmes 01-28-2010 03:18 PM

So you are not running brush wires? You will get a lot of heat and lack of power.


The only way to dial out stall is to have independent control of the throttle.

guidetti_angelo 01-28-2010 03:28 PM

hi,'i,m Angelo from Italy.i plan to plan a dual esc berg. is a good combo tekin with your hh 35t handwound right? does it exist also 40 t hh pro handwound?
thanks

guidetti_angelo 01-28-2010 03:28 PM

i plan to build..sorry :(

JohnRobHolmes 01-28-2010 03:30 PM

I like the FXR, it was my choice for competition for a long time. They work great with 35t motors.

I don't have any 40t motors here that I am aware of.

guidetti_angelo 01-28-2010 03:37 PM

i need hotwire to set up? you run at 3 cell lipo? because i have only experience with novak brushless goat 2s but all suggest to me to change to brush for dual esc berg.i had a doubt between 45t o 35 t holmes hobbie but if you suggest to me the 35t,i will buy this..

guidetti_angelo 01-28-2010 03:39 PM

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Holmes-Ho...n-p-17869.html
is this the motor?

JohnRobHolmes 01-28-2010 03:54 PM

You don't need the hotwire, there are buttons for easy programming on the tekin.

That is the motor. I actually run 6s lipo on 55t motors, but with the FXR I ran 3s and 35t motors.

guidetti_angelo 01-28-2010 04:07 PM

i have much wheelspeed with 35t and 3 cell lipo?,how many C recommend for lipo battery? here in italy we have a good availablity of hiperion vx 35-65 c? it's good a 1800 3s 35-65 c? thanks john

dkf 01-28-2010 04:25 PM

How many shims are supposed to be on the 540 handwound armatures? (yoko can) Cleaned the motor and dropped the shims. I have 2 brass and one silver steel shims on either side of the arm. (6 total) Want to make shure I'm not missing any.

JohnRobHolmes 02-02-2010 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidetti_angelo (Post 2263369)
i have much wheelspeed with 35t and 3 cell lipo?,how many C recommend for lipo battery? here in italy we have a good availablity of hiperion vx 35-65 c? it's good a 1800 3s 35-65 c? thanks john

Oh yes, that will be a great battery. You will have tons of wheelspeed with that combo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkf (Post 2263408)
How many shims are supposed to be on the 540 handwound armatures? (yoko can) Cleaned the motor and dropped the shims. I have 2 brass and one silver steel shims on either side of the arm. (6 total) Want to make shure I'm not missing any.

Every motor is different. The smallest shims go by the bearings. The larger shims go inbound. Basically you shim it where it wants to sit, so there is just a bit of up and down play.

guidetti_angelo 02-02-2010 09:25 AM

last question john and thanks for your suggestions from Italy!!..which pinion for my hh 35t? 12t ?

JohnRobHolmes 02-02-2010 10:21 AM

I generally start with the smallest pinion I can use, then go up a bit until wheelspeed is right or something gets hot.

guidetti_angelo 02-02-2010 10:33 AM

ok because for me it is the first experience with moa and with berg axles..so you suggest to me a 9t or 10t to start also considering the most used set up with holmes torquemuster by your driver on national competitions..i would a set up that it hasn't problems of overheat..sorry for my several question :(


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