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Old 02-11-2010, 11:54 AM   #2041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hagus View Post
The programming sequence is always presented in sequential order and always starts with the first setting (No cutoff voltage) within the first section (Cutoff Voltage). The first beep(s) signifies which section of the programming you are in and the second beep(s) signifies which setting is waiting for a "yes" or "no" answer Ok how do I tell the esc yes or no with my tx
The Yes is a full throttle, the No is a full reverse. I could have sworn I put that in the instructions, i know I added it one day. Maybe I forgot to save...

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Originally Posted by brtman77 View Post
I am looking for a radio and receiver for my high lift. I was told that a Spektrum 3.0 pistol would work. I have seen guys using DX6 and DX7. I went to the local hobbie store and they say they are for airplane use but these don't use a specific channel will one of these work?
The only problem with an air radio (2.4ghz) is that you will have a ratcheting gimble on the left side. You can get them changed though if they get one from the factory for you or send one in for modification.

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Originally Posted by crawlerpillar View Post
Hello John,
I purchased a BR-XL from you a few weeks ago. I ran it many times with nimh. I have just run my first lipo through it and the autocut lipo function cutoff way to late. It let my 11.1v go down to 7.48v. I set it up for auto with the stick programming function. What should I do? I don't want to keep running this brand new lipo down so far.
Thanks, Chris
We need to hook it up to a computer and see what is going on. I haven't been able to reproduce this issue myself, but I will put this on the list for the weekend's testing and work.

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Originally Posted by shelljeep View Post
Is this a typo? Do you want me to just use your business email for the paypal?
If you want, you can pm me a price including the motor repair, and Torquemaster esc, and I'll just go ahead and pay it in full. Whatever is easier for you and faster for me.
All taken care of via emails, which was a bit better for these more complicated transactions.
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:11 AM   #2042
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Hey John, just got my Torquemaster esc and Castle link, thanks for the fast shipping.
Now can you give me a good starting set up for my 2.2 Bully comp rig?
I'm running a 3S Lipo, Hitec 5955TG servo, and 45T motors what would be good?
Thanks Joe
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:24 PM   #2043
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Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
All taken care of via emails, which was a bit better for these more complicated transactions.
Well taken care of.
When I plug the field programmer into my ESC via throttle cable and connect the battery leads, the card gives the back and forth flashing flashing error. Is this because I'm sending it too much voltage with 3s? I got it to work via usb afterwards.

So, we mainly have control over the braking on the BR-XL? No way to control full throttle or burst?

I set the drag brake and brake strength to zero since I have worm gears. Any advantage to running it that way? Prolong battery, cooler motor?
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:27 PM   #2044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
Hey John, just got my Torquemaster esc and Castle link, thanks for the fast shipping.
Now can you give me a good starting set up for my 2.2 Bully comp rig?
I'm running a 3S Lipo, Hitec 5955TG servo, and 45T motors what would be good?
Thanks Joe
Just plug it in and run, it should be set up just right for most tastes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelljeep View Post
Well taken care of.
When I plug the field programmer into my ESC via throttle cable and connect the battery leads, the card gives the back and forth flashing flashing error. Is this because I'm sending it too much voltage with 3s? I got it to work via usb afterwards.

So, we mainly have control over the braking on the BR-XL? No way to control full throttle or burst?

I set the drag brake and brake strength to zero since I have worm gears. Any advantage to running it that way? Prolong battery, cooler motor?

The field programmer won't read the TM esc unless hooked to a computer. I think your setup is just right, and getting rid of brake and drag will indeed make the ESC and motor run cooler.
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:47 PM   #2045
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Good deal John, Thanks for getting it shipped fast, wish my chassis I ordered a week before I ordered the esc would get hear soon:-(
Thanks Joe
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:16 PM   #2046
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In an effort to get some more wheelspeed going fwd, I advanced my timing tonight. My motor turns CW running forward, so I loosened the endbell set screws and rotated the endbell CCW. I tried lining up the brushes maybe 3/16" before the next metal webbing and did a few full throttle pulls fwd and reverse to test.
Fwd was faster then reverse, although my eyes aren't calibrated finely enough to tell if fwd was faster than neutral timing.
I noticed fine white arcing between the brushes and com when running fwd, slightly more when in reverse. I assume this is because advanced becomes retarded when in reverse.
I took a bit of advance out of the motor because of the arcing.
It still arcs with less timing.
If I need to do this more scientifically by measuring the can circumference, dividing by 360 and scribing degree marks, I will. LMK.
Questions:
1. How much more power (%) can I gain by advancing the timing?
2. What is the max advance you recommend? I know you recommended 7* for the 540's, does this apply to the pullers also?
3. How much arcing is acceptable?
Thanks, Shell
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Old 02-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #2047
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Hello.

I bought the TorqueMaster BR-XL ESC, and I have a question.
If I hold full throttle Forward, which Light should blink, green or red?

Thanks a lot, Avi.
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Old 02-20-2010, 06:56 PM   #2048
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Green
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:27 PM   #2049
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I am planning on buying a Torquemaster mini from you for my Losi MRC scale truck and I was wondering which motor to buy,either the 33t or the 22t? I am running the stock motor and gearing right now. I am looking for a motor with more wheel speed and a little more torque for climbing. The truck has metal lockers all the way around and it weighs 6.5 lbs. I am running 1.9 Rock Kreeper tires mounted to Pro-Line Titus wheels with the weights installed. I am running the stock 7.2 volt Losi battey and I have a Novak Rooster Crawler speed controller and a Hitec HS5955TG servo for the steering. I posted this question in the Losi MRC section also to get feedback from people running the motors but I want your input also because you are the one selling them and I think you would be the one who knows best.
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:18 PM   #2050
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Got a question...

I bought a 10T Puller from a buddy. He had swapped in a 7T armature, says it worked fine. I haven't hade any luck at all, and today I notice that there is a broken winding. Is that something you can take care of for me?
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:31 AM   #2051
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Originally Posted by Ktbone View Post
Green
Thank you !
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:54 PM   #2052
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I need a few 380 arm. rewound/cut/balanced.
soemthing you'll do,recomend someone.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:48 PM   #2053
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I am running a HV JR 8711 servo wired with a bec and am currently running it at 7.4V on a 3 cell lipo. I have recently upgraded to using your holmes hobbie torquemaster esc and I am now using 4 cell lipos. Anyways wondering if I can crank the voltage up safely for the servo? Any recommendations?
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:44 AM   #2054
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thanks for the responce JohnRobHolmes. i've charged my lipo battery two times but i've only got to play in the house a little bit at a time so i'm not sure what kind of run times i will get. I was wondering if you get a little bit more run time after the first couple of charges? Its a 2c 7.4v 2500 20c

Last edited by djcrawler; 02-25-2010 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:24 AM   #2055
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Hi John
I'm getting a LCC, however, no comping, just recreational.
So my priority is best performance with low maintenance.
Cost is not an issue. Its just that I don't wanna be fussing with temps, electrical issues, etc. I already own a castle sidewinder programmable esc, and a bunch of 2s lipos. I want tons of torque to turn those worms, and I'd like wheelspeed roughly equivalent to a fast walk or better. Motors I'm considering are your TM 35t, TM 25t, puller 10t.
What motor would be best, one of those, or another you suggest?
Staying 2s is my thought for lower temps and because I already have the batts, however...
If you think I can go 3s and not have to worry about temps with certain motor/pinion combos. (I am in AZ, evening temps, commonly 100+ degrees in summer) Any thoughts/direction please...
Thanks.

Jared
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:23 AM   #2056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelljeep View Post
In an effort to get some more wheelspeed going fwd, I advanced my timing tonight. My motor turns CW running forward, so I loosened the endbell set screws and rotated the endbell CCW. I tried lining up the brushes maybe 3/16" before the next metal webbing and did a few full throttle pulls fwd and reverse to test.
Fwd was faster then reverse, although my eyes aren't calibrated finely enough to tell if fwd was faster than neutral timing.
I noticed fine white arcing between the brushes and com when running fwd, slightly more when in reverse. I assume this is because advanced becomes retarded when in reverse.
I took a bit of advance out of the motor because of the arcing.
It still arcs with less timing.
If I need to do this more scientifically by measuring the can circumference, dividing by 360 and scribing degree marks, I will. LMK.
Questions:
1. How much more power (%) can I gain by advancing the timing?
2. What is the max advance you recommend? I know you recommended 7* for the 540's, does this apply to the pullers also?
3. How much arcing is acceptable?
Thanks, Shell
There will always be a little bit of arcing, but letting the motor spin at 3v for 5-10 minutes can sometimes help if the brush is rough. I'm not sure of the numbers on power and timing advance, I would think your gearing and batteries will have more affect on power than the timing.

The pullers are timed different. For advancing the timing, I recommend keeping the brush hood totally visible. Don't push it so far that it hides behind the can webbing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul97 View Post
I am planning on buying a Torquemaster mini from you for my Losi MRC scale truck and I was wondering which motor to buy,either the 33t or the 22t?... I am running the stock 7.2 volt Losi battey and I have a Novak Rooster Crawler speed controller and a Hitec HS5955TG servo for the steering. I posted this question in the Losi MRC section also to get feedback from people running the motors but I want your input also because you are the one selling them and I think you would be the one who knows best.
I'm not positive on how strong the losi battery is, but I would probably recommend the 22t if you plan to continue with lower voltage. If you expect that 3s lipo is in your future, the 33t is a better choice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueMonster View Post
Got a question...

I bought a 10T Puller from a buddy. He had swapped in a 7T armature, says it worked fine. I haven't hade any luck at all, and today I notice that there is a broken winding. Is that something you can take care of for me?
Not much that I can do for a broken wind really. A pic would help though, as it depends on where it is broken.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rock hard View Post
I need a few 380 arm. rewound/cut/balanced.
soemthing you'll do,recomend someone.
I don't have the ability to properly wind and balance arms right now. I don't know any companies that have a dynamic balancer for 380 armatures either. That is a tough area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond D View Post
I am running a HV JR 8711 servo wired with a bec and am currently running it at 7.4V on a 3 cell lipo. I have recently upgraded to using your holmes hobbie torquemaster esc and I am now using 4 cell lipos. Anyways wondering if I can crank the voltage up safely for the servo? Any recommendations?
I would recommend that you keep the servo case under 140f. Cranking it up a bit may be fine on cold days, but on hot days it could kill the servo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djcrawler View Post
thanks for the responce JohnRobHolmes. i've charged my lipo battery two times but i've only got to play in the house a little bit at a time so i'm not sure what kind of run times i will get. I was wondering if you get a little bit more run time after the first couple of charges? Its a 2c 7.4v 2500 20c
A lipo will break in after about 5 to 10 uses. You won't find a huge increase in runtime though, only a marginal amount.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jduke31+6 View Post
Hi John
I'm getting a LCC, however, no comping, just recreational.
So my priority is best performance with low maintenance.
Cost is not an issue. ... Motors I'm considering are your TM 35t, TM 25t, puller 10t.
What motor would be best, one of those, or another you suggest?
Staying 2s is my thought for lower temps and because I already have the batts, however...
If you think I can go 3s and not have to worry about temps with certain motor/pinion combos. (I am in AZ, evening temps, commonly 100+ degrees in summer) Any thoughts/direction please...
Thanks.

Jared
I would say the 10t puller is the best bet for low maintenance in a brushed motor. The speed will be low however, so you may need to get a really big pinion on there to compensate.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:03 PM   #2057
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do you have replacment arms for your 380's?and if not what if was a larger order
can you get me some blank 380 arms if it was a larger order. say 100


and thanks for the advice/customer support
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:41 AM   #2058
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so i found out that my 2c 2500 lipo will give me around 45min of run time. I should have bought one a long time ago it would have saved me alot of time goin back & forth from the charger to the crawlin spot. The other good thing about it is now I can make adjustments & test it out for 20 min or so then i can turn my boy loose so he can play for another 20min. Im trying to get him into crawling"
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:52 AM   #2059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock hard View Post
do you have replacment arms for your 380's?and if not what if was a larger order
can you get me some blank 380 arms if it was a larger order. say 100


and thanks for the advice/customer support
I'll check it out and see if we can come up with the tooling for it. Are there certain winds you are wanting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by djcrawler View Post
so i found out that my 2c 2500 lipo will give me around 45min of run time. I should have bought one a long time ago it would have saved me alot of time goin back & forth from the charger to the crawlin spot. The other good thing about it is now I can make adjustments & test it out for 20 min or so then i can turn my boy loose so he can play for another 20min. Im trying to get him into crawling"
Glad you are enjoying it!
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:25 PM   #2060
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how much effect does the angle of your shocks have on the way your crawler handles?
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