(HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread

[marvinbeaverdip]

Hey John, I got the armature yesterday. Thanks, that was quick! I've got a question about motor assembly though. It's a speed gems can, and I'm assuming that I can use the timing hash mark stickers that are on the can. This wouldn't change from arm to arm, right? If it does change, how do I figure out what is 0 degrees, and what advance timing (if any) should I run it at? Also, this is a noob question, but the timing hash marks have a central 0, with marks up to 40 to the left and right. I assume that turning the endbell counter-clockwise (to the hash marks to the right of 0) advances the timing, correct? Also, how much slop should the arm have up and down? With one washer on the bottom, and one washer plus the insulating washer on the top (endbell end), it has a little slop. If I add one more washer to the bottom it's snug, no slop at all. zero movement. It doesn't bind, but there's no up and down movement of the arm in the can at all.

[pinckbrown]

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinckbrown
John, Is there a formula to determine the current draw?
XR10, single Tekin FX-R, Fantom Blitz 55 Turn motors, HiTec 7950 Servo, CC BEC, Punk 3D DIG.
pinckbrown

There is not, but I can tell you that a battery that will take 25 amps continous should be just fine. I would use a 1300 35c pack in 3s since it fits right in the battery slot.

I am presently using a 1300 3s. I was wondering how small I can get away with
when I switch battery to front axle for 1 5-6 minute course. I have 2 XR10s,
1 3S for practice & fun, and 1 Carbon Fiber 2S, twin front axles, very light. I will keep 3S 1300 in reg rig. Was inquiring for the 2S CF rig.
Thankyou for your time
pinckbrown

[Aussie Nerd]

Originally Posted by Aussie Nerd

Would I be alright using mamba micro's with 16t 454's or would I need FXRs? Or better yet would I be better off waiting for you new smaller esc? This will be in a mid 4 pound rig I'd think.

Thanks
Kieren

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

You should be fine with the mamba micro pros. I don't have a release date for my own micro ESC.

Just to add to this would sidewinder micro's with heatsinks or b1r's also suffice? It's just that sidewinder micro's and b1r's are both around $15 cheaper.

Thanks
Kieren

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by YJJPWrangler

I apologize in advance for such a "stupid" question. Pretty new to RC so forgive the ignorance. I picked up a Torquemaster 540 off of here and I'm getting ready to wire it up. Am I correct in stating that the postive wire runs to the tab next to the red screw and the negative wire to the tab near the black screw? Again I apologize for the question

Indeed that is correct, but positive and negative are arbitrary in the long run. If the motor spins the wrong way you can swap the wires or rotate the endbell 180 degrees.

Originally Posted by marvinbeaverdip

Hey John, I got the armature yesterday. Thanks, that was quick! I've got a question about motor assembly though. It's a speed gems can, and I'm assuming that I can use the timing hash mark stickers that are on the can. This wouldn't change from arm to arm, right? If it does change, how do I figure out what is 0 degrees, and what advance timing (if any) should I run it at? Also, this is a noob question, but the timing hash marks have a central 0, with marks up to 40 to the left and right. I assume that turning the endbell counter-clockwise (to the hash marks to the right of 0) advances the timing, correct? Also, how much slop should the arm have up and down? With one washer on the bottom, and one washer plus the insulating washer on the top (endbell end), it has a little slop. If I add one more washer to the bottom it's snug, no slop at all. zero movement. It doesn't bind, but there's no up and down movement of the arm in the can at all.

Timing won't change, you can use your hash marks. Rotating the endbell counterclockwise will give you advanced timing for clockwise armature rotation.

For shimming, I generally leave just a touch of up and down play. Just be sure the commutator connecting tabs can't crash into the brush hoods. I have come across way too many motors that were shimmed too tight, so be sure that there really is no binding when you add that last washer that give it no play.

Originally Posted by pinckbrown

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinckbrown

I am presently using a 1300 3s. I was wondering how small I can get away with
when I switch battery to front axle for 1 5-6 minute course. I have 2 XR10s,
1 3S for practice & fun, and 1 Carbon Fiber 2S, twin front axles, very light. I will keep 3S 1300 in reg rig. Was inquiring for the 2S CF rig.
Thankyou for your time
pinckbrown

That is more trial and error than anything else. For just one course, you may be able to get away with as small as 500mah. But, your power and punch may suffer if you don't have a good enough pack.

Originally Posted by Aussie Nerd

Just to add to this would sidewinder micro's with heatsinks or b1r's also suffice? It's just that sidewinder micro's and b1r's are both around $15 cheaper.

Thanks
Kieren

I haven't tried them with the 454 motors. Maybe ask what people have gotten away with running in the electronics forum.

[Aussie Nerd]

What would you rate the 454's as amp wise? Would they be around a 25-30 amp motor? From what I can gather the micro sidewinder is 25, b1r is 30 and the mamba micro is 35.

Thanks
Kieren

[kennyj]

John, I just installed 2 new team motors, and 2 new br-xl's into berg axles. I have 12r/13f pinions. I calibrated the esc's separate before I connected their power together. I am not running a bec and have all wires plugged into the rx. You timed the motors and marked them for front/rear. My problem is that my rear motor turns faster than the front, even with the smaller pinion. Any suggestions? Should I just swap the motors and wire them backwards, or will that effect timing?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by Aussie Nerd

What would you rate the 454's as amp wise? Would they be around a 25-30 amp motor? From what I can gather the micro sidewinder is 25, b1r is 30 and the mamba micro is 35.

Thanks
Kieren

The 11t is really hot, but the 16t would be fine with the sidewinder micro. I would use the mamba micro for the 11t motors.

Originally Posted by kennyj

John, I just installed 2 new team motors, and 2 new br-xl's into berg axles. I have 12r/13f pinions. I calibrated the esc's separate before I connected their power together. I am not running a bec and have all wires plugged into the rx. You timed the motors and marked them for front/rear. My problem is that my rear motor turns faster than the front, even with the smaller pinion. Any suggestions? Should I just swap the motors and wire them backwards, or will that effect timing?

Sounds like the timing on the rear motor is a touch off. If you loosen the endbell you can retime it. Try moving the 0 indications closer to each other, but not totally lined up.

[nexgen91]

Will the TorqueMaster Pro Handwound 540's 35t coupled with the HH BRXL ESC be ok to run using a 1400mAH 9.6v NiMh battery pack and/or a 1200mAh 8.4v NiMh battery pack in a Axial SCX10 RTR? I ordered a 4500mAh 7.2v NiMh to put in it but I want to put my airsoft batteries to use as well, so I dont have to dump more money on batteries right now, and still have plenty of juice. Im new to the R/C thing so I dont know if it is ok to use high power batteries (in Airsoft its a big no no without doing internal upgrades to the gearbox) would the stock SCX10 transmission be able to handle the extra power? Thanks

Matt

[Aussie Nerd]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

The 11t is really hot, but the 16t would be fine with the sidewinder micro. I would use the mamba micro for the 11t motors.

Thanks I guess I can always put a heatsink on if needs be.

Kieren

[GEOCRAWLER]

I have a TorqueMaster Handwound 540 35t that has about a dozen runs in my berg and today it died. Only way I can get it run is to turn the pinon about 1/3 of rotation. Then the motor takes off and runs, but if you stop the motor I have to "jump start" it again. I even tried a different speed controler and still have the same results. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Sir Steven]

Hello John,

For my XR10 I have 1 TorqueMaster BR-XL, a PunkDig, 2 x 55 T and a Hitec 7980.
The 7980 is running on 6V for now. Is the BEC from the TorqueMaster BR-XL enough or do I need a CCBEC?

Thanks,
Steven

[BuddhaTat2]

John... Was wondering if you were ever going to get your Outrunner Brushless 1000KV motors back in? Really would like to have 2 of them for a crazy build. If not what motor's would you recommend for a 30LB 1/4 Crawler. Super Bully Axles, so I am running 2 motor's...

[kaneohecrawler]

just ordered the 7t cobalt puller only running 2s so not worries bout heat but i am wondering about which esc to use im familiar with the rooster from novak cause ive had a few but says motor limit of 27.. i wanna use the one you guys have for the combo but im not familiar with setup and such so a lil weary on getting it hard to get outta my comfort zone

1 how easy is it to set up the TorqueMaster BR-XL esc?
2 am i gonna have to bust out my remotes setup guide to set this up or is it more simple and im just over thinking it?

sorry just got done spending 400 dollers on electronics due to meltdown

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by nexgen91

Will the TorqueMaster Pro Handwound 540's 35t coupled with the HH BRXL ESC be ok to run using a 1400mAH 9.6v NiMh battery pack and/or a 1200mAh 8.4v NiMh battery pack in a Axial SCX10 RTR? I ordered a 4500mAh 7.2v NiMh to put in it but I want to put my airsoft batteries to use as well, so I dont have to dump more money on batteries right now, and still have plenty of juice. Im new to the R/C thing so I dont know if it is ok to use high power batteries (in Airsoft its a big no no without doing internal upgrades to the gearbox) would the stock SCX10 transmission be able to handle the extra power? Thanks

Matt

Yeah, that would be fine. You will need to turn off the auto lipo cutoff, and that is done with the Castle link or with stick programming.

Originally Posted by GEOCRAWLER

I have a TorqueMaster Handwound 540 35t that has about a dozen runs in my berg and today it died. Only way I can get it run is to turn the pinon about 1/3 of rotation. Then the motor takes off and runs, but if you stop the motor I have to "jump start" it again. I even tried a different speed controler and still have the same results. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Sounds like the motor needs some attention. You may be able to bring it back to life with a comm cut and new brushes.

Originally Posted by roodstreepje

Hello John,

For my XR10 I have 1 TorqueMaster BR-XL, a PunkDig, 2 x 55 T and a Hitec 7980.
The 7980 is running on 6V for now. Is the BEC from the TorqueMaster BR-XL enough or do I need a CCBEC?

Thanks,
Steven

Some people have reported no problems with such a combo. Some people want more power than the internal BEC. Your milage will vary. It wouldn't hurt to try it first to see if you need an external BEC.

Originally Posted by BuddhaTat2

John... Was wondering if you were ever going to get your Outrunner Brushless 1000KV motors back in? Really would like to have 2 of them for a crazy build. If not what motor's would you recommend for a 30LB 1/4 Crawler. Super Bully Axles, so I am running 2 motor's...

I have Revolver Black motors in stock, have for the past year.

Originally Posted by kaneohecrawler

just ordered the 7t cobalt puller only running 2s so not worries bout heat but i am wondering about which esc to use im familiar with the rooster from novak cause ive had a few but says motor limit of 27.. i wanna use the one you guys have for the combo but im not familiar with setup and such so a lil weary on getting it hard to get outta my comfort zone

1 how easy is it to set up the TorqueMaster BR-XL esc?
2 am i gonna have to bust out my remotes setup guide to set this up or is it more simple and im just over thinking it?

sorry just got done spending 400 dollers on electronics due to meltdown

You should be fine on 2s, it isn't so fast that it would shut down the ESC.

The torquemaster comes set up for crawling. You won't have to do anything except set up the radio endpoints. If you want further adjustment you can get a Castle Link. Your radio shouldn't need anything special to work.

[vegas1973]

Hi got new esc could you tell me on my drag break you can set it from 1 to 9 what does it do many thanks for help.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Sounds like you got a tekin controller. 1 is weakest, 9 is strongest. Play around with it to find the strength you like.

[2Dogs]

When do you expect Sport motors back in stock?

Thanks!

[JohnRobHolmes]

I'm not sure. I may have to switch factories, in which case it would be about two months. If this is the case I will be upgrading the construction for the machine wound.

[NorZepol]

Hey John, I just sent you an email then realized you were on here. I had ordered a waterproof SC from you that wont ship till the 14th. I was told you could ship a standard (non waterproof) version on tuesday. I don't really run in wet conditions, just ordered it for "insurance". Is it true the warranty is shorter with the waterproof? Would you recommend the waterproof version if I don't "need" it. Thanks,
Ron

[JohnRobHolmes]

Yes, the warranty is shorter as stated on the product page. If you really don't need it, don't sweat it. The controllers are conformal coated so you still get some protection. We can forgo the treatment and ship it tomorrow for you.