09-23-2008, 09:21 AM | #1061 | |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
Posts: 13,137
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you could use a double pole single throw (DPST) switch. Poles 1 and 3 could be used to turn on the Monster, poles 2 and 4 could be used to turn on the Sidewinder. Since the left and right side poles are isolated from eachother you would have no worries. | |
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09-23-2008, 01:48 PM | #1062 | |
Winner of the '07 RCC dumbass award! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Up on a Mountain, out in the Woods
Posts: 661
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well, I went ahead and wired them both to a relay that powers up with the BEC. So far its working sweet. WC | |
09-24-2008, 02:55 AM | #1063 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: FT Bragg
Posts: 41
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John I have a Berg and I will be running two of your Cobalt 7T pullers. I have a Tekin FX R ESC with a CC BEC to run as well. I was wondering if I need to add another FX R to run the two motors. Also would I need a second CC BEC and also how do you wire up two FX Rs?
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09-24-2008, 08:07 AM | #1064 | |||||
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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As for wiring it up, if you don't have a fancy radio just use a Y harness for power and the radio signal. If you have a fancy radio give the second ESC it's own channel so you can have full control. JRH | |||||
09-28-2008, 12:40 PM | #1065 |
Winner of the '07 RCC dumbass award! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Up on a Mountain, out in the Woods
Posts: 661
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I discovered a design flaw in the Scorpion 3032-08. Some how the armature broke free of the base and that allowed the windings to be cut by the sharp corners of the aluminum as the armature rotated back and fourth. I am really bummed out about this man. Pretty sure the A123 vented because the motor was shorting out!! Just glad the Monster held its ground. I tore the entire motor down to the basics. Bearings are still in perfect shape! That was the problem last time. Magnets are all still attached and looking good. But the armature spins freely on the base. (where the bearing are housed) So what I did is burn the wire casing off the input leads all the way to the base and try to solder all of the wires back on. I believe I got all but one that was too far in to get to. Put the motor all together and fired it up and it works well but I'm not sure the solder is going to last long with the kinda amps I pump into it. As for the spinning base, I gorilla super glued the hell out of it and could not get it to break free by hand again. I know Innov8tive sells kits. Is it possible to get just the armature and base? Can they be separate? I can wind it myself if need be. Or should I just get a new motor and rework it so it lasts? ...Or should I be discussing this with lucien miller? I would like to be able to: 1.) Knock down the sharp corners inside the base where the wires got cut. 2.) Apply epoxy to the base to hold everything from spinning and nuking it again. This is what happens when you put an airplane motor in a beat around the rocks tuff truck. But its a problem that CAN be solved. Thanks for your help man! WC |
09-28-2008, 09:31 PM | #1066 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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You pretty much have it figured out. You may try pinning or keying the armature onto the base. If you want a kit, just hit up Luciens site. A better way of attaching the stator is loctite. 454 is one adhesive type I believe. |
09-29-2008, 06:22 PM | #1067 |
SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Cedar Park
Posts: 5,453
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JRH, I have 2 of the 45t 540 handwounds and I have some crazy glitching associated with them. When I swap in a crapola motor it's fine. I tried removing the onboard caps and replaced with Novak caps and it got a lot better (like 95% better) but it will still do it. Any suggestions? My setup is an FM radio, Novak xxtra, sidewinder and castle BEC.... Last edited by Locked Up; 09-29-2008 at 06:26 PM. |
09-29-2008, 10:00 PM | #1068 | |
09 RCA champ! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Acworth, Ga
Posts: 966
| Quote: i saw that one, but it says everything exept the mamba max.. | |
09-29-2008, 10:06 PM | #1069 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Right right, the mamba max just plugs in via usb. It comes with the usb cable. I didn't read carefully enough.
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09-29-2008, 10:45 PM | #1070 |
09 RCA champ! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Acworth, Ga
Posts: 966
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so to clarify, it will work with the MM....its just a typo in the ad?
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09-29-2008, 11:42 PM | #1071 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,279
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JohnRob, I know you have broken your fair share of stuff when testing. here is my dilemma, I'm building one of the tonka winnebagos. it weighs about 10 pounds. with chassis and axles figure 13lbs instead of finishing out the interior with details, I'm going to make it a mobile pit box, tools and spare parts, I'm guessing about 10 lbs worth, so that will be 23lbs. of course I will be putting a trailer behind it long enough to carry two rigs, figure another 7lbs, 30 so far can't forget the two rigs on it, and I tend to build stout so figure another 17lbs there now, to move a 25lb motorhome, towing another 30lbs over not necessarily even ground is going to be a stretch for a lot of axles, especially when you consider trying to stay in the 8 inch width of the motorhome. I have a set of highlift axles, which are a little wide but potentially doable, I also have a set of wheely king axles, and I'm not afraid to narrow them, I double narrowed a set for my lunchbox build. do you have any suggestions for motivating almost 50 lbs worth of RC goodness? or should I go bother rc4wd instead? main reason I'm asking is because I know you columbia guys have a sled. |
09-30-2008, 05:43 AM | #1072 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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It actually won't work. The MM just needs a usb cable, not the castle link interface dealy.
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09-30-2008, 05:48 AM | #1073 | ||
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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I would suggest a ton of reduction first. At least 80:1 if not a bit more. Then get either a hot brushed motor or brushless motor. Outrunner or inrunner, not too big if a deal. Once you get the motor turning it won't stop as long as you keep on the throttle. I would suggest the Wheely king axles over the highlift- better ring and pinion. Very cool project, a toolbox RC is a great idea. | ||
09-30-2008, 07:21 AM | #1074 |
09 RCA champ! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Acworth, Ga
Posts: 966
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where do i get a USB cable to program my MM? sorry, i have no experience with this im ready to place my order...
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09-30-2008, 07:24 AM | #1075 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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09-30-2008, 07:26 AM | #1076 |
09 RCA champ! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Acworth, Ga
Posts: 966
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forgot to mention i got the MM used and i dont have a usb cable. will any usb cable from a pc store work?
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09-30-2008, 07:29 AM | #1077 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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It needs to be a mini USB on the MM side, just bring the MM in to the store.
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09-30-2008, 08:18 AM | #1078 |
SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Cedar Park
Posts: 5,453
| Is there a "540 motor timing for dummies" somewhere? |
09-30-2008, 08:30 AM | #1079 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Rotate the endbell for positive timing and the motor will spin faster, rotate it for negative timing and it spins slower (not good for the brushes). It is the relation of the brushes to the magnets. I can't tell you which way is which because there is no standard forward for crawlers. You only want a few degrees of timing, just a few MM of can rotation. |
09-30-2008, 09:21 AM | #1080 | |
SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Cedar Park
Posts: 5,453
| Quote:
Rotate it how? I must be missing something. There are 2 set screws & no other holes available ... do I need to drill new holes for the screws or do I just manhandle the whole thing and the metal ring the screws go into will rotate? As far as timing advance/retard... Looking at the motor from the top, lets say that under forward power it rotates clockwise. Does that mean that rotating the endbell a hair clockwise would be advancing or retarding the timing? Last edited by Locked Up; 09-30-2008 at 09:31 AM. | |
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