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Old 09-04-2009, 08:52 PM   #1841
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I don't have anything in the RPM ranges that pullers typically use. If you have a class where there is only one stage of geardown, maybe I can help. What motor do you currently use?
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Old 09-05-2009, 05:45 AM   #1842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
I don't have anything in the RPM ranges that pullers typically use. If you have a class where there is only one stage of geardown, maybe I can help. What motor do you currently use?
Not using anything yet, Getting together the initial setup.
I was going to try to start with a 3 cell lipo and micro switch. I have a spare FX-R and Side winder in case that doesnt work out!!
I was thinking of starting out with around a 10 turn motor to start?
Any maybe something that could handle a 4 or 5 cell later.

I use your motors in all my other rigs with great results, Just wanted to keep the tradition alive!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:38 AM   #1843
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Hey JRH, Looking at getting a MMM. What is the diference between the two on your website, one with box for $170 and the other marked CLON w/o box for $120? Still get the same warranty with both? Just wondering if just a box is worth $50!! LOL
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:56 PM   #1844
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I wanted to know if I can run the HH 7T puller with my FXR on a 3s lipo?

Thanks
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:32 PM   #1845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenbelly View Post
Not using anything yet, Getting together the initial setup.
I was going to try to start with a 3 cell lipo and micro switch. I have a spare FX-R and Side winder in case that doesnt work out!!
I was thinking of starting out with around a 10 turn motor to start?
Any maybe something that could handle a 4 or 5 cell later.

I use your motors in all my other rigs with great results, Just wanted to keep the tradition alive!

Thanks for the help!
My handwound motors are pretty dope, but I don't know what the hot ticket is for pulling. I do have some elipse brushed motors I have been playing around with, they would have long brush life for pulling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THnCS View Post
Hey JRH, Looking at getting a MMM. What is the diference between the two on your website, one with box for $170 and the other marked CLON w/o box for $120? Still get the same warranty with both? Just wondering if just a box is worth $50!! LOL
It is pulled from combos, so no box. That is the only difference, I will honor the warranty on it if Castle does not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDcrawler72 View Post
I wanted to know if I can run the HH 7T puller with my FXR on a 3s lipo?

Thanks
It will run hot if you beat on it, but the combo has worked well for me in the past.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:38 PM   #1846
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Any idea when the mini torque masters will be coming back out? Just fried my Losi MRC stocker and I really want one of yours!
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:39 PM   #1847
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I just ordered the cobalt puller 500. I was wondering what a good starting point for gearing was. Its going in a ax10 . thanks
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:16 AM   #1848
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Are the tekin rs brushless set ups water resistent at all? Im looking to run something in my scx10 that can handle 3s and dont wanna be limited to all dry areas. Are all sensored brushless systems bad with moisture?

I have a novak havoc 3s 8.5t ballistic set up in my slash. If i bought a tekin rs 17.5 set up, would i be able to swap speed control/motors between the two? The novak is slightly water resistent so i figure it might be better for the scx10 and i would love to have the rs speed control in the slash!
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:05 AM   #1849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC09minilosi View Post
Any idea when the mini torque masters will be coming back out? Just fried my Losi MRC stocker and I really want one of yours!
I am shooting for the end of the year on these. I will need to get these re-manufactured and I am looking at options to change them to make the build more reliable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by axman View Post
I just ordered the cobalt puller 500. I was wondering what a good starting point for gearing was. Its going in a ax10 . thanks
Since this motor is smaller than a typical 540, it will run warmer. Try the lowest/ slowest gearing that you have and see what your temps are like. 160f is a good max to shoot for. If you are cooler and want more wheelspeed you can gear up or volt up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableman View Post
Are the tekin rs brushless set ups water resistent at all? Im looking to run something in my scx10 that can handle 3s and dont wanna be limited to all dry areas. Are all sensored brushless systems bad with moisture?

I have a novak havoc 3s 8.5t ballistic set up in my slash. If i bought a tekin rs 17.5 set up, would i be able to swap speed control/motors between the two? The novak is slightly water resistent so i figure it might be better for the scx10 and i would love to have the rs speed control in the slash!
typically the sensored systems don't like water too much, but it may be the contaminants more than the water that causes problems. You can swap speed controllers and motors between the two systems, sensored systems in the US are pretty much all interchangeable.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:30 PM   #1850
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 willys
John got my motor cut...put on brand new brushes...and it still has a dead spot...it don't matter what I do...I advanced the timing and retarded it and it still has the same dead spot???


thoughts??
I know these don't last for ever...but dang these motors are only a few months old...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes
Sounds like you got a deep burn mark on it. You can send it my way and I can see what can be done to save it or replace it. A deeper cut may be needed.


I am going to see if there is anything that can be done to keep the comm burning from happening so fast. A design change may remedy the situation. I think it may be a combination of the low resistance wind, zero timing, laydown brushes, and maybe high voltage that is causing the fast wear.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 53 willys View Post
hey John I have been moving and did not get a chance to ship my 35t with the dead spot out to you yet...
I just printed a USPS label and it's now ready to go!!

should I send both motors in?? my front 35t works ok still....but if you can rebuild or freshen it up I would rather just send both motors to you and get 2 fresh..

let me know...maybe these two can ship BACK out with my custom 40T's I ordered a week or so ago???




thanks for your help and time on this
Mark


John I got my rebuilt 35ts and my 40ts...been really loving the 40t's for about 5 packs...now it wont run...dead like the 35t I sent to you..
so heres the kicker...
I pull the 40T out thinking no big deal I will cut the comm soon as my lathe shows up and in the mean time I will run the 35ts I just had you rebuild..
I pull them out of the USPS and start to check the forward/reverse and realize the rear 35t I sent you for rebuild STILL has the dead spot it was sent in for!!!
now I'm motorless and have a comp on tuesday...

what the heck is going on with my rear motors?? why are they smoking like this????
the 35t will run if I help it...the 40T is DEAD NEVER moves...

HELP?!?!??
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:53 PM   #1851
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I can't get you a new motor by tuesday unfortunately, as I don't have any of that wind here. I just have 30t's. I checked over the motors personally and they were running fine for me back and forth, but it is certainly possible that I have a magic touch. I cut that comm pretty deep, so it is probably just a dud at this point. When I get more motors I can replace it for you.

On the 40t, check the brushes to be sure they are not stuck, and that the brush wire is not hung or bent around the hood. You can also check each segment for continuity to ensure there isn't a bad segment. IF it is the same motor as the 35t that died (like a rear), then something in your setup may be causing an issue. Dig setup, ESC, something. Novak hold brake seems to burn a lot of comms.


I do believe you read the thread where I went over the cause of the pitted comm. I will be looking into a modified design to counter this, otherwise some forward timing is your best bet. Just a few degrees is enough. Sounds like your rear may just have some issue though, as this is two in a row.
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:47 PM   #1852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
I can't get you a new motor by Tuesday unfortunately, as I don't have any of that wind here. I just have 30t's. I checked over the motors personally and they were running fine for me back and forth, but it is certainly possible that I have a magic touch. I cut that comm pretty deep, so it is probably just a dud at this point. When I get more motors I can replace it for you.

On the 40t, check the brushes to be sure they are not stuck, and that the brush wire is not hung or bent around the hood. You can also check each segment for continuity to ensure there isn't a bad segment. IF it is the same motor as the 35t that died (like a rear), then something in your setup may be causing an issue. Dig setup, ESC, something. Novak hold brake seems to burn a lot of comms.


I do believe you read the thread where I went over the cause of the pitted comm. I will be looking into a modified design to counter this, otherwise some forward timing is your best bet. Just a few degrees is enough. Sounds like your rear may just have some issue though, as this is two in a row.
just checked.. I don't have continuity on all the segments on comm...(40t)


my set-up is dual FXR's and a 4pk..CC BEC hard wired to the servo@ 6.5V
3s lipo..robot steering servo.

I just don't understand whats going on here????


and yes it's the rear motors that keep burning...but I just don't see why or how????
I drove the 40t's super slow!! I babied them trying to make them last since my last ones went so fast...this one went EVEN quicker then last time....what could cause this on my set-up??

thanks for the help
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:53 PM   #1853
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Any blackening on the 40t wires? Totally dead then eh? Could be dumb luck, just happened to happen twice in a row.


You could run 35t on front and 40t on rear. The speed difference would not be much, and you could compete.


I would estimate a bit more than one percent of motors that come through my hands show this problem in one way or another. I have had about 8 of my motors go bad in the last 600.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:14 PM   #1854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Any blackening on the 40t wires? Totally dead then eh? Could be dumb luck, just happened to happen twice in a row.


You could run 35t on front and 40t on rear. The speed difference would not be much, and you could compete.


I would estimate a bit more than one percent of motors that come through my hands show this problem in one way or another. I have had about 8 of my motors go bad in the last 600.
I don't see anything out of the ordinary?? no black wires...it just died..and wont start back up even with help from me.
i got the 35T in back and the 40t in front now so i hope to compete tuesday...so do I need to send my 35t and my 40T in for repair/replacement??
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:18 PM   #1855
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Send em back and I will send you totally new ones when they come in. 35ts are being wound now, and I will put in for some 40t as well. I won't really have a use for the motors, but I would really like to check them over heavy to see if I can spot a commonality between them or the other few I have here.

Sorry for the troubles with these. Brushed motors can just be frustrating sometimes.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:22 PM   #1856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Send em back and I will send you totally new ones when they come in. 35ts are being wound now, and I will put in for some 40t as well. I won't really have a use for the motors, but I would really like to check them over heavy to see if I can spot a commonality between them or the other few I have here.

Sorry for the troubles with these. Brushed motors can just be frustrating sometimes.

10-4 thanks Buddy!!
I will USPS them to you in the AM...
thanks again
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:45 PM   #1857
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Quick question, First some facts.

1. I have a Nomadio React
2. I want to put a 7.4v lipo in it.
3. I konw I will need to step the voltage down below 6v. (know a good one??)

How would I know when the voltage of the 2c lipo is to the cutoff voltage? Just hook a lipo alarm to it? Even though it will be outputting ~5v. Just a tad confusing for me.

I have this battery picked out cause it will fit in the radio and is 2000mah.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-74V-2000mAh
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:58 AM   #1858
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I used a CC BEC in my react, set to 6v. As soon as the voltage hit 5.9v I knew it was time to charge the battery. I used a 1300 3 cell pack and it lasted forever, and there was room for the CC BEC inside too.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:25 AM   #1859
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But wouldn't 5.9v be too low of a voltage for a 7.4v lipo pack? Wouldn't 6.4v be the safe cutoff voltage for a 2c lipo?

I have a 2c alarm that I can hook up to the lipo pack.
That should cut the pack off at the correct voltage even though the voltage on the React will be showing 5.1v. Just trying to see if that makes sense.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:33 AM   #1860
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sure, if you have room that would be great.


Under low discharge rate a lipo can actually go down to 2.5v per cell without damage. 6v is safe however.
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