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My "Build" After a long long wait, I've finally got one of these rigs in my hands. I already started another thread talking about the potential deficiencies, link to that thread here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-s...e-its-way.html Up here in Canada, we almost always have wait till things have existed in US for at least a month or two before we get them so I ordered from RPP and in order to get their free shipping, I used a shipping depot in WA (about 2hrs south of me) to receive the delivery. This first post isn't likely to have too much that's of serious interest to the more serious builds on here but I'm going try and keep this thread going as I progress through this rig. Highlights reel: Front is 3 link with panhard, all links are metal. Rear is 3 link with y upper, all links plastic. Servo sucks. ESC is ok. Comes with NiMh battey. Servo saver. Can't run alum servo horn without mods. At the depot: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...19&oe=5AC42855 On my bench: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e0&oe=5ACA443C Came with a poster, thanks RPP https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5ABBE8A9 Everyobody loves stickers, candy canes are cool too https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...15&oe=5AB42C77 A box, in a box https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...37&oe=5AB768D0 One of my favorite parts of anew toy https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3a&oe=5AB8C36B Well packaged https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...84&oe=5ABDBD53 I can't even rember the last time I bought something rtr and didn't have to paint it, I hate painting.. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d&oe=5AC4E77D5 Steering angle needs some improvement. CVD's will be neccassary, there's lots of room for the knuckles to turn so I think CVD's will be the ticket. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...87&oe=5AC55BC9 Not exactly a definitive test but with a 2200mAh 3 cell in the stock location weight bias appears to about about 60/40 front/rear. I'll get better/actual data on this down the road, my scales are in storage right now. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5AFEDCC9 Rx box is a little tight but it does have just engouh room. The box on it's own is definitely NOT waterproof. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c1&oe=5ACC935B First significant design flaw I've encountered. The servo screws install from below and one of the screwheads is blocked off by the x-member so you have disco the panhard and remove the bumper to change the servo (lost my picture that showed the actual problem area but I'll try to remember to add that in to the thread later) https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...12&oe=5AC23B34 HPI used some neat little cone washers for installing the servo. But they broke the first time I tightened them - I didn't think I was tightening them that hard but apparently they're not very strong. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...da&oe=5AB512B6 https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2c&oe=5AC6D550 A servo saver. That's cute. Delete. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...64&oe=5AB399E5 Damn servo saver raises the horn face way away from the servo body. Turns out that until I figure out some spacers for the servo I have to use the stupid thing. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...52&oe=5AD4AF0A End of day 1. Still haven't even driven it. Esc, Rx/tx and servo have been changed out to: Mamba Max Pro, PowerHD 20Kg (with direct wired BEC) and my FlySky radio gear; stock motor will get swapped out as soon as I have some more time. https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ac&oe=5AD47557 |
Re: My "Build" Great start on your thread, that 90oz/in servo has gotta go as you did (yep servo saver gotta go too), cvds next on your list. Those little countersunk washers started back in on-road racers first time I saw them and never made sense, just use a buttonhead and good quality hardened flat washer. Wish front and rear bumper mouint crossmembers had two screws (and holes) per side holding them on instead of one screw and a little plastic tab with matching notched frame-rail end. Drill a hole in the plastic down in the bottom of the notched part and put that second screw in now (a hole for the screw would be better than a notch but what can we do? :) I know it's not ideal, but can you use four spacers with longer screws to drop servo down and eliminate the saver? You could use one or two of these per side for a little more solid mount. They've worked great as servo mount clamps and spacers for me. http://www.fullforcerc.com/FF023 |
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I can't believe HPI thought that combination of a weak servo and a servo saver was a good idea.. That's a good call on the second screw for the bumper mount, I might just do that, I think I might even be able to drill the frame and avoid using that little notch.. I'm already working on spacers to try exactly what you suggest to drop the servo down. I've got my 3D printer running right now with a few different sized spacers to see what might fit. I haven't a chance to check yet, but my next concern is hoping there's no clearance issues in dropping the servo down. I'm also thinking about designing a new servo mount that eliminate the need for those spacers.. HPI has CVD's (as well as alum hubs/knuckles and axle tubes) listed in their catalog, we'll see how it takes them to get those to market; I'm betting that the aftermarket will make them first.. |
Re: My "Build" I didn't have time to do much yesterday, but here's a small update. Shot that shows the servo screw that's blocked by the cross-member: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3f&oe=5AFCC58A Some spacers I printed to try and shim the servo down to fit a standard horn, 3mm, 4.5mm, 6mm: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f3&oe=5AD38EEB Showing where I may run into clearance issues to drop the servo: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ac&oe=5ACB05FA https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a2&oe=5ABCEC75 The ESC tray fits a Castle unit nicely but lacks any way of wrapping a zip-tie around for security. I don't like depending on just tape to hold it in place, so I may have to drill a hole to allow some zip-tie loving: https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5AD0E78D |
Re: My "Build" Thanks for update, nice printed servo spacers. Move the frame end of panhard mount up, leave servo in current non-lowered position, puta bend in the panhard to clear if needed. Drill a hole in cross-member to reach that screw or would it need to be cut away to allow the hole screw head and screw to pass trhough? |
Re: My "Build" Looks good so far! It seem to have a couple of flaws, but the base of the truck seems solid, and well balanced (except battery tray). Looking forward to your experiences with it. |
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The tray itself I'm not in love with. I usually velcro to a hard strap like it has, but I'll have to use it a for while and see how it does. |
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The servo binds against the frame so that servo has to come down. I've printed a bunch of different thickness spacers (I love having a 3D printer at home!) so that I can determine the ideal minimum drop distance. That's suspension fully compressed in that photo so I'm not overly concerned with clearance to the panhard (after building my 10.2 kit, there's gobs and gobs of room comparatively speaking..), more concerned about just making sure the horn can swing fully without contacting the frame.. And I'm thinking about drilling a hole for access, but that gusset is providing some strength to the cross member so I'm taking my time to make certain |
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Re: My "Build" I installed the Savox 1210wp servo with the servo saver and have no issues as of yet. The esc mount is perfect for the hobbywing 1080wp and it's switch. So far I love my venture! One of the things I want to get is heavier wheels in aluminum. It should settle it down for higher speeds and improve looks as well. I took my transfer case apart and marine greased the gears as well as the axles. Loving this truck. If anyone reading this is on the fence on getting one....stop wondering and worrying go and get 1! |
Re: My "Build" This horn looks like it might drop enough: https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...lr1557/p203507 |
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In my case, I printed some 3mm spacers and they work perfectly - I printed a few extra sets if anyone else needs them I'd send them out for the cost of shipping.. |
Re: My "Build" Hpi 116445 23t Hpi 116446 25t This info came off box for servo horns |
Re: My "Build" Looking at the end of the manual online it looks like a lot of option HPI parts are planned to be made including CVD's. |
Re: My "Build" question for you if you have an scx10 sitting around...I noticed the bumper mounting systems look pretty much the same...are the mounting holes/bumper posts a similar size/spacing with axial? |
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Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk |
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Right now I'm experimenting to see if AX10 cvd's fit, I think I might be able to make them work.. |
Re: My "Build" I've been stupid-busy for the last few weeks so I haven't had much time to update the tread but I'll try and do one now.. I discovered that HPI spec'd aluminum hexes on this rig, that's a nice little touch that some companies skimp on. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d5&oe=5AFECF35 On the list of minor annoyances is the fact that to access the lower link mount bolts, a long handled hex doesn't allow good access. You can unbolt them but you have to start the screws by hand when reinstalling in order avoid cross-threading the link mount. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5AF8ECE3 https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9f&oe=5ABE833A https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5AFC8031 Working some aluminum links. First version was alittle too long but that's being corrected.. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9d&oe=5AF29CC4 Checking weight & balance in the stock config with a 2200mAh 3S installed. You can see, balance is basically 50/50. I'm working on a 3D printed battery tray to move it forward and down. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5ABA5C96 Sitting pretty in her new parking spot, note the high performance shackles - those added some serious HP.. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ac&oe=5AF0B7B0 |
Re: My "Build" There was a rumour (on Facebook...) that you might be able to fit AX10 CVD's, so I thought I'd investigate. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d0&oe=5ABE8495 I opted to not go through with it. The tangs are about .008" too thick and need to be cut about .13"-.25" further up the shaft. If I had a mill I'd be all over it, but I don't. I know it could be done with Dremel and some patience, but I'm picky about doing things right so I'll just wait for someone to make CVD's that fit. So instead of that, I deceided to go old school and grind the cups down. I've taken about .020" off, I may go back in and take another .010"-.020". https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5AFF1EC8 https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5AFD0AC1 Before: https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ed&oe=5AECBB6E After: https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5AB61AC7 It's hard to quantify (especially since the pre-mod measurements I took were junk), but there's a slight improvement in the steering angle now. https://scontent.fyyc2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ff&oe=5ABB3ACF |
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