Chassis Swap-Around

[Kyle_A]

Seen a few posts on swapping the WK chassis to put the battery box up front. I've got all the crawler suspension pieces in my hot little hands ready to do this, but am reluctant on the chassis swap just because it doesn't seem very clear to me. Lot's of confusion around modifying axle mounts, making new servo mounts for steering etc. Is there a better way to do this? Is it as difficult and confusing as most of the threads seem? Thanks.

[Rock_abuser]

Thanks for starting this thread. I just recieved my wheely king today and I want to do the same thing, but as you stated it seems confusing.

[evilbluebunny]

Here Chassis Flip Guide
this is the thread that i used and it really helped me so I hope it helps you guys.

[dacaur]

chassis flip is really a lot simpler than it sounds. all you are doing is swapping the steering gear from the front axle, to the rear axle, then swapping the motor wires. then the back becomes the front and you are done. follow the thread above if you are keeping the steering servo in the stock location, or if you are moving the servo to the axle, you just put it on the new front axle.

[Pete from Houston]

here's what mine looks like now that it's "flipped":
Pete's WK project

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by dacaur

chassis flip is really a lot simpler than it sounds. all you are doing is swapping the steering gear from the front axle, to the rear axle, then swapping the motor wires. then the back becomes the front and you are done. follow the thread above if you are keeping the steering servo in the stock location, or if you are moving the servo to the axle, you just put it on the new front axle.

The part that is unclear to me is what if you don't want to do it by switching the wires. Then you have to switch the axels around and that part is very unclear to me. Also, what about the steering linkage, does it need to be made longer.

[Pete from Houston]

I don't understand why anyone would want to create additional hassles for themselves to avoid simply unplugging two wires and plugging them back in to the opposite connectors.

using the "TH.REV" switch doesn't help because then you'll have instant reverse and have to double tap to go forward (if you're using the stock ESC anyway).

The stock steering rod will work but you'll have to adjust it a bit (lengthen) to allow for full turning to the right. Just unhook the steering rod from the axle pivot, turn the wheels to the right, and turn the rod ends (both ends, so that the threads stay evenly engaged in the both rod ends) until the end meets up with the axle pivot position when the wheels are turned to the right.

Once you've reconnected the steering rod and axle pivot, remove the screw from the servo saver and slide the saver off the servo shaft. Then, turn your radio and ESC on, set your steering trims to the center, and reattach the servo saver to the servo with the wheels pointed forward.

My camera doesn't take very good close-up shots, otherwise I'd have pics to try to help you see what I am talking about.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by Pete from Houston

I don't understand why anyone would want to create additional hassles for themselves to avoid simply unplugging two wires and plugging them back in to the opposite connectors.

Because I wont be using the stock speed controller. Also With the motor running backwards, timing changes to the motor will be wrong.

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by Rock_abuser

The part that is unclear to me is what if you don't want to do it by switching the wires. Then you have to switch the axles around and that part is very unclear to me. Also, what about the steering linkage, does it need to be made longer.

Doing it by flipping the axles is a lot of unnecessary hastle.. the stock motor isn't timed, and if you are turning this into a crawler, any motor you use wont be timed, so it doesn't mater if it runs forward or backward...

That said, if for some reason you REALLY dont want to switch the wires, what you need to do is take the axles, leave the front in the front and the rear in the rear, but flip each one 180, so the top is the bottom and bottom is top. Remove the axle C's, and swap them end for end so that the steering geometry stays correct, move the upper link mount to the top again, flip the lower link mounts, and move the steering gear to the top.

The part about the C's seems to confuse a lot of people. (if you arent even sure what the axle c is, there is only one part on the axle that looks like the letter C, thats it ) if you look at the axle C's, you will notice they are numbered 1 and 2. #1 needs to stay on the right (passenger) side on the front axle, and on the left (driver) side in the rear.

steering linkage is covered in the link above, but its really best to move the axle to the servo, there is way too much slop in the stock system for rock crawling.

(edit) also, the stock upper link mount probably wont just bolt on since its kinda keyed to go on the side its on.... some dremel work may be required... i dont know exactly since i just swapped wires... I would recommend you see if you can get he upper link mounts to work before you do anything else so you dont waste time if you cant make it work.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by dacaur

Doing it by flipping the axles is a lot of unnecessary hastle.. the stock motor isn't timed, and if you are turning this into a crawler, any motor you use wont be timed, so it doesn't mater if it runs forward or backward...

That said, if for some reason you REALLY dont want to switch the wires, what you need to do is take the axles, leave the front in the front and the rear in the rear, but flip each one 180, so the top is the bottom and bottom is top. Remove the axle C's, and swap them end for end so that the steering geometry stays correct, move the upper link mount to the top again, flip the lower link mounts, and move the steering gear to the top.

The part about the C's seems to confuse a lot of people. (if you arent even sure what the axle c is, there is only one part on the axle that looks like the letter C, thats it ) if you look at the axle C's, you will notice they are numbered 1 and 2. #1 needs to stay on the right (passenger) side on the front axle, and on the left (driver) side in the rear.

steering linkage is covered in the link above, but its really best to move the axle to the servo, there is way too much slop in the stock system for rock crawling.

(edit) also, the stock upper link mount probably wont just bolt on since its kinda keyed to go on the side its on.... some dremel work may be required... i dont know exactly since i just swapped wires... I would recommend you see if you can get he upper link mounts to work before you do anything else so you dont waste time if you cant make it work.

Thanks Dacaur for the info. So just want to make sure. There will be no ill effect running it backwaed with a Novak Rooser crawler speed control?

Also if I did it the way you say, then wont the short end of the truck be in the front since the WK is what like a 60/40?

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by Rock_abuser

Thanks Dacaur for the info. So just want to make sure. There will be no ill effect running it backwaed with a Novak Rooser crawler speed control?

Also if I did it the way you say, then wont the short end of the truck be in the front since the WK is what like a 60/40?

no the links are the same front and back as is the chassis length, no short end...

yes the rooster will be fine, it wont even know the motor is running backward. Just make sure the motor you use isn't timed. the stock motor isn't, and lathe motors arent.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by dacaur

no the links are the same front and back as is the chassis length, no short end...

yes the rooster will be fine, it wont even know the motor is running backward. Just make sure the motor you use isn't timed. the stock motor isn't, and lathe motors arent.

I will be using the Novak Fifty-Five Crawler Brushed Motor. I am not to sure if it's timed or not.

[dacaur]

its not timed, you are good to go.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by dacaur

its not timed, you are good to go.

Thanks dacaur for all the help

[SnoopMaxx]

Originally Posted by Rock_abuser
The part about the C's seems to confuse a lot of people. (if you arent even sure what the axle c is, there is only one part on the axle that looks like the letter C, thats it ) if you look at the axle C's, you will notice they are numbered 1 and 2. #1 needs to stay on the right (passenger) side on the front axle, and on the left (driver) side in the rear.

I posted this in the other chassis flip guide

Originally Posted by SnoopMaxx
You only flip the AXLE HOUSING the "c" must stay in there respective positions
"c2" front driver side "c1" front passenger side
top view
front
c2----c1



c1----c2
rear

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by SnoopMaxx

I posted this in the other chassis flip guide

good job... want a cookie?

[Pete from Houston]

Originally Posted by dacaur

good job... want a cookie?

Why the snarkey attitude? There are several chassis flip threads here, so until the mods decide to sticky the best thread, people are going to have to keep searching. Snoopmaxx's info is helpful to someone hung up on flipping their axles around instead of swapping ESC wires around.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by SnoopMaxx

I posted this in the other chassis flip guide

Snoopmaxx you should make a youtube video. That would solve any questions people would have. Or even pictures would help. I can host them for you if you like.

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by Pete from Houston

Why the snarkey attitude? There are several chassis flip threads here, so until the mods decide to sticky the best thread, people are going to have to keep searching. Snoopmaxx's info is helpful to someone hung up on flipping their axles around instead of swapping ESC wires around.

I was just responding in kind... I couldnt figure it out what the point of his post was, but have to assume it wasnt nice in nature...

[leadfoot]

I am getting a wk and i am going to flip the chassis.Could you tell me if the 35t warrior would work since it has to spin backwards. thanks