Flipping, Extending, and Rotating Questions

[kelly_and_brian]

I have started collecting the parts to flip and extend the standard chassis and had a couple quick questions.

I ordered an rcguy servo mount so I need to rotate the shocks which is going to throw off the lengths from the HPI stage 1 build I think ... so how do y'all do it?

I figure it's probably best to flip the chassis (although it looks pretty symmetrical) and rotate the shock mounts, then I could measure for and cut lower shafts, then the upper shafts, and finally the drive shafts. Is that the appropriate order? In most pictures it looks like the lower shafts are perpendicular to the ground (except the bent ones), so can I just lay things out and measure?

Also, do I use the same set of holes to mount the shocks and shaft when the shock mount is rotated to install the shock mount?

Also, does 60/40 usually refer to length or weight distribution? And if it is length, where do measure from/to?

Thanks for all of your help!!

[rambuller84]

Originally Posted by kelly_and_brian

I have started collecting the parts to flip and extend the standard chassis and had a couple quick questions.

I ordered an rcguy servo mount so I need to rotate the shocks which is going to throw off the lengths from the HPI stage 1 build I think ... so how do y'all do it?

I figure it's probably best to flip the chassis (although it looks pretty symmetrical) and rotate the shock mounts, then I could measure for and cut lower shafts, then the upper shafts, and finally the drive shafts. Is that the appropriate order? In most pictures it looks like the lower shafts are perpendicular to the ground (except the bent ones), so can I just lay things out and measure?

Also, do I use the same set of holes to mount the shocks and shaft when the shock mount is rotated to install the shock mount?

Also, does 60/40 usually refer to length or weight distribution? And if it is length, where do measure from/to?

Thanks for all of your help!!

I think you are way overthinking this. Take the axles off and flip them upside down and reinstall them. Now you have reversed the truck and your battery is in the front. Rotate the link/shock mounts to the back of the axle and measure from the bottom hole to the mount on the chassis.

60/40 is technically link length but it plays a big part in weight distribution.

[kelly_and_brian]

Ok, so just flip the chassis and lay it out so the axels are about 12.5" apart, measure and cut. Once I get the lower links made, then I assume I just repeat for the other components.

Thanks!

[Pete from Houston]

As for the chassis flip questions, they can be answered here: Chassis Flip Guide

switching the axles around is the complicated way to go about this... unless you have a motor that can't be set to 0 degrees timing, you're making the flip overly complicated.

[rambuller84]

He's already taking the truck apart for new links, and you'll have to end up resetting the radio and possibly the esc.

[Miller Time]

This is what I followed, roughly: http://www.rccarreviews.com/rc-revie...ck-crawler.htm

The parts listed under Step 3 are right, the tough part is finding the Tamiya mounts. I had to order them from Canada, they are backordered most places.

I also found a few errors and omissions in that tutorial. For one, the chassis flip is required, although it's not mentioned there. You are planning to do this, so no big deal, but wanted to clarify since that walk through doesn't really say it. Also, there is a bit of additional hardware you need that isn't listed there. 3mm screws mostly, sizes from 10mm to 26mm or so. A few 3mm lock nuts to match them, and some 3mm washers. All of this can be found in the bulk fastener section of any hardware store.

Second item that is wrong is the amount to cut off the Traxxas shafts. He says to cut "about 1/4 inch" off the male and female side, but I found that was not enough. Cut 1/2" off of each male and female side, works great.

[dacaur]

just swapping the motor wires is the easiest and best way to flip the chassis, then move the steering gear to the front. the stock motor is not timed, and any motor you would use for a crawler is not timed, so no worries there. as for resetting the radio and esc, nope, not needed.
Flipping the axles upside down on the other hand does present a problem in the form of the upper link mount, which is molded to fit the diff with the axles right way up, and no longer fits once the alxe is flipped, so a new upper link mount would be needed as well.
I wonder how many people that recommend flipping the axles upside down have actualy done that on a wheely king?

When you plan out your link lengths, be sure to keep the pinions at the stock angle. You could straighten them, but that puts the driveshafts closer to harms way, and throws off your castor angle. (affects steering) and the steep pinion angle doesn't do any harm. Ive seen several posts where people set up their stretch so that the pinion is parallel to the ground, then wonder why their driveshaft is below the links.

60/40 most commonly refers to f/r weight distribution, though some people also use it for length (you would take 100% of the total link length to get the wheelbase you want, then put 60% of it up front, and 40% of it out back)

[kelly_and_brian]

Yeah, I have that conversion bookmarked ... I guess since they did not mention the chassis flip and I was planning on using 8/32 and brake line I was unsure of the length to cut the links. Do you happen to know what the length refers to in those Traxxas turnbuckles? Is the 108mm from tip to tip or hole to hole? I have the all thread and brake line already but the Revo ends are still in the mail. I also found that the Tamiya parts were out of stock so I got some aluminum c-channel, we'll see how well it works.

Thanks!!

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by rambuller84

I think you are way overthinking this. Take the axles off and flip them upside down and reinstall them. Now you have reversed the truck and your battery is in the front. Rotate the link/shock mounts to the back of the axle and measure from the bottom hole to the mount on the chassis.

60/40 is technically link length but it plays a big part in weight distribution.

Have you done this?

[Miller Time]

Easiest way is to either reverse the wires from the esc to the motor as said before, or I was lazy and just reversed the throttle function on my transmitter.

[rambuller84]

Originally Posted by Rock_abuser

Have you done this?

Yes.

Originally Posted by dacaur

Flipping the axles upside down on the other hand does present a problem in the form of the upper link mount, which is molded to fit the diff with the axles right way up, and no longer fits once the alxe is flipped, so a new upper link mount would be needed as well.
I wonder how many people that recommend flipping the axles upside down have actualy done that on a wheely king?


60/40 most commonly refers to f/r weight distribution, though some people also use it for length (you would take 100% of the total link length to get the wheelbase you want, then put 60% of it up front, and 40% of it out back)

Nooooo... if you notice the upper link mount can now be flipped to the top side of the case since there are holes on both sides so the axles are universal.

And, 60/40 is 60% REAR link length, 40% FRONT link length. Go look at a 60/40 build. The rear links are about 1 1/2" longer than the fronts.

Anyway you do it, if you are taking it apart and redoing the whole truck, just flip the chassis around and reconfigure it starting over from there.

[kelly_and_brian]

I ordered the rcguy diff lockers and new spur and pinion gears as well ... so pretty much taking everything apart so I will give flipping the axels a try. I'll make sure to mark them so I can tell stock top from bottom before I get started.

I was just unsure of the lengths to make the links and shafts since I was making so many changes at once. I figured they would have to be somewhat custom since I wasn't really following a build and since the shocks had to be rotated I have not seen a build where someone rotated the shocks and gave the lengths of their links. HPI Stage 1 gives the lengths, and the one mentioned above rotates the shocks but uses traxxas links.

But I suppose if I errored on the long side I could trim them back.

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by rambuller84

Yes.


Nooooo... if you notice the upper link mount can now be flipped to the top side of the case since there are holes on both sides so the axles are universal.

And, 60/40 is 60% REAR link length, 40% FRONT link length. Go look at a 60/40 build. The rear links are about 1 1/2" longer than the fronts.

Anyway you do it, if you are taking it apart and redoing the whole truck, just flip the chassis around and reconfigure it starting over from there.

Dude, you are wrong. I dont like calling people liars but.... You havent done it, because its not possible. The upper link mount can NOT be moved to the bottom half of the axle. If you are claiming you simply unscrewed it from the top screwed it onto the bottom with no problems, you are lieing, simple as that.

yes there are holes on both half's of the axle. im not sure why that is, but they are definatly not "universal".

Yea i wrote the link thing wrong, its 60 back 40 front for links. for weight its 60 front 40 back.


As for reversing useing the reverse switch on the throttle, this is not a good idea either, since the wheely king ESC has brakes and a reverse delay, you would only get brakes in reverse, and then have a delay from reverse to forward.

[kelly_and_brian]

I have not done this yet, but if you flip the axles can you swap the mounts from one end to the other?

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by kelly_and_brian

I have not done this yet, but if you flip the axles can you swap the mounts from one end to the other?

no. the two mounts are identical, so it would be the same situation on either axle.

[Rock_abuser]

Originally Posted by rambuller84

Yes.




Nooooo... if you notice the upper link mount can now be flipped to the top side of the case since there are holes on both sides so the axles are universal.

And, 60/40 is 60% REAR link length, 40% FRONT link length. Go look at a 60/40 build. The rear links are about 1 1/2" longer than the fronts.

Anyway you do it, if you are taking it apart and redoing the whole truck, just flip the chassis around and reconfigure it starting over from there.

Once again, have you done this? I don't think you have. Stop giving out advice that you have no idea about. You are just going to confuse people. I am totally new to this and even I know you are wrong.