Dacaur's wheely king build.

[dacaur]

Hey guys, Here is my WK build finaly...

I started by flipping the chassis around so the battery mounted in the front (reversed motor wires and moved swapped steering gear) and adding diff lockers to the axles. I also used a grinder on the stock tires as you can see in the pic's.... I just got my masher 2k's and axial beadlocks but havnet mounted them yet.




The links I got didnt fit the stock wheely king balls, so I modified the stock spacers for the lower link mounts. Here are the modified spacers on the chassis end of the links. I just held one of the ball links I was using next to it and cut that amount off each end, then put it together with the stock screws.




On the axle end I replaced the crappy e-clip setup with 4-40 machine screws/nuts with washers to space the shorter ball links and a lock washer on the outside.. be sure to use threadlocker!



I used T-maxx long driveshafts. I used the stock tranny output and axle input shafts, along with the stock u-joints, I simply took the center section out and replaced it with the revo shafts using the stock black u-joints. I cut off 25mm from the outside shaft, and 22mm from the inside shaft....





For the shocks I moved the shock mounts outside the shock mounts on the axle towards the center.... This has to be run snug but not tight or binding will occur... thread locker is a must or the nuts will come off even with lock washers... trust me on this... BTW, it crawls surprisingly well with only one shock attached....




Next I worked on the steering. For the mount between the servo and knuckle I used 6-32 all thread and the same links as I used on the lower links, once I had it the right size, I measured the exposed all thread and cut some 3/16" aluminum tubing to cover it. For the tie rod between the knuckles I could have done the same thing, but found that the link included with the strc kit meant to extend the stock steering setup was the perfect length! so I used that. To mount the servo to the axle I used 22 gauge steel cut with this template. http://www.dacaur.com/crawler/wk_servo_mount.pdf Everything is put together with 4-40 machine screws/nuts.




I used a 6 inch servo extension to reach from the servo out the front to the reciver at the rear.



And lastly, I moved the antenna mount back to the rear so it didnt have to pass right by the motor and ESC.







It works pretty well... the tires are definitely a weak link, cant wiat to try the mashers... stock has not enough traction and too hard... ... ill probably add 5-6 ounces or so of stick on lead weight to the wheels when I do that... I was going to keep the stock gearing so I can run around the yard with it, but after driving it I lowerd it to 14/96, which works MUCH better on the rocks and doesnt allow it to go fast enough to traction roll every time i turn at full speed.

Future upgrades will include a sidewinder ESC, brushless outrunner and maybe an e-maxx 2 speed tranny with disconnectable swaybars....

So Here is a list of everything I used...

Wheely King Extended Wheelbase Rock Crawling Kit $30.98 shipped.
Traxxas Half Shafts Long T-Maxx Part# 4951X $8.00 (LHS)
Maximizer Lockers Part# 2355 $20.00 (LHS)
Traxxas Rod Ends Part# 2742 $4.00 (2 packages requied) (LHS)
3' x 3/16 aluminum tubing $3.00 at LHS
3/4" 4-40 Machine screws/nuts $1.00 at hardware store (10 in a pack)
1" 4-40 Machine screws/nuts $1.00 at hardware store (10 in a pack)
6-32 washers $1.00 at hardware store (10 in a pack 2 packages required)
6.32 lock washers $1.00 at hardware store (10 in a pack 2 packages required)
1' x 6-32 threaded rod $1.00 at hardware store
sheet of 22 guage steel $5.00 at hardware store


Total $81.98
Wheely king $215
Total to get crawling = $296.98

New Stuff to crawl better.....
Integy 45T lathe motor - $19.00
Axial Bead Lock wheels x 4 - $56.00
Pro-line Masher 2000 M3's x 4 $32.00
Hitec HS635MG high tourqe servo $50.00

Grand Total $453.98
Futaba 3PM 2.4Ghz Radio $183.00



I also chaged my battery/ESC to TRX connectors, LOVE EM, and used revo body clips...



About the STRC www.teamstrc.com Wheely King Extended Wheelbase Rock Crawling Kit.... On the kit, I'm happy with the quality of the components, And considering the price, I'm happy overall, but without considering the low cost, I'm unhappy with the kit as a whole. When I hear "Kit" I imagine something that includes the stuff i need, not something that I have to modify or buy other stuff to complete... First off, there were NO instructions. Now if it all just bolted on, no instructions wouldn't be a problem. But its not a simple bolt on.... The website did say I would need some rod ends to fit the 3mm studs included with the kit, but I needed several items that were not mentioned... first of where you mount the lower links to the chassis.... the links I got that fit the 3mm studs do NOT fit the stock wheely king balls, so some sort of spacer is needed. I cut the stock spacer to fit... I simply cut the length of the studs that came with my rod ends off the stock spacer. the stock spacer was threaded far enough that I didnt have to modify it other than cutting it. I reassembled it with the stock screws. On the axle end of the lower links I needed 3 washers to keep the ball link from being loose (I got some 4-40 nuts and bolts to replace the stock shaft/eclip setup while i was at it, death to e-clips!) The website said I would need some t-maxx driveshafts, but does not specify how short i need to cut that (or even that I need to cut them at all) (I cut the outer shaft down by 25mm and the inner shaft down by 22mm) Now, all of this wouldn't be a problem at all if i had known about it... But I dont like to have to run to the hardware store before I can install stuff, when I have been waiting for it in the mail already for several days and could have had it ready if I had just known....

Now the last issue.... once the kit was installed the shocks were binding badly, the truck cannot achieve full ride height on its own after i push it down, and when I pick it up, the shocks do not extend all the way unless I pull the axle down by hand.... I solved this by tacking some some 4-40 bolts/nuts and moving the lower shock mounts behind the mount toward the center.... instead of having the bolt go through the front part of the shock mount on the axle, then through the shock mount on the shock, then through the back part of the shock mount on the axle, I just have it going through the back part on the axle, and then through the shock mount on the shock.... /rant

[dacaur]

New Stuff to crawl better.....
Integy 45T lathe motor - $19.00
Axial Bead Lock wheels x 4 - $56.00
Pro-line Masher 2000 M3's x 4 $32.00
Hitec HS635MG high torque servo $50.00
Grand Total $453.98

plus Futaba 3PM 2.4Ghz radio brings my total to $638

I cut the foams in a star pattern, and cut about 1/2" off the width of each one... tires are nice and soft with very little to no bounce... I also added 3 ounces of lead inside each front tire, and am thinking about adding another 3 each.... I really hate assembling beadlocks though...
I'm very happy with how it crawls now.

The two things that made the biggest difference for me as far as crawling were the chassis stretch and the tires.... tires are a huge difference from stock!

[LST022752]

Good choice on the tires. They wont disappoint you.

[murderface]

you can avoid using threadlock by using 4-40 lock nuts and you can get 100 at fastenal for 4 bucks compared to 4 for a dollar at the LHS . I'll never run out of nylock nuts for my stuff

[dacaur]

ill have to look into gettins some locknuts.. but I had the trheadlock on hand and the budget on my WK is already spiraling out of control hehe.... on BTW, ive got some updated pics....

[chrisjlittle]

Originally Posted by dacaur

the budget on my WK is already spiraling out of control hehe....

Budget? WTF is that? Nice looking truck.

[bigredneck61088]

does your steering servo mt limit front travel at all?

[dacaur]

Originally Posted by bigredneck61088

does your steering servo mt limit front travel at all?

Not even a little bit. With a solid axle rig, when one tire goes up, it forces the other tire down, so in effect, the center of the axle stays in the same spot in relation to the chassis at all times when you are crawling. Even with all the vehicles weight on one front tire the servo doesn't hit the chassis. the only way it would hit is if both front shocks were to compress at the same time, like in landing from a big jump.... but this isn't exactly a baja truck so there isn't much chance of that lol.

[Kranberry]

looks nice. i would recommend you using 4 machine screws(nuts and bolts) for the servo, it will cause the ears(mounts on servo) not to break off as easy.
will this be at little moab on the 12th?

[dacaur]

well, you cant see it in the pics, but the servo is also electrical taped to the servo mount, so its pretty sturdy, but I think i will eventauly add 2 more screws anyhow... soon as i figure out where i put them....\

whats at little moab on the 12th? what time?

[rambuller84]

It takes a lot to break the servo ears when you are just crawling around. I did shear both ears off the stock HPI servo the other day landing a 4 foot drop in my BL Basher WK though

[EHeye]

Great looking truck. You may want to think about replacing the rear lockout with something metal. I didnt think anything of it until I tried to squeeze through a tight spot and my tires did this : |----/


Here is a shot of very cheap steel lockouts that work awesome



Took some flat bar and cut two pieces. Measured from hole to hole using a piece of steel wire. Drilled the 2 holes in each piece (at the same time so everything matches up). This can only be mounted this way of you have the C's flipped.