| | #1 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA
Posts: 596
| ok guys i need a lil help..i stripped the final gear and pinion inside my diff..i found 2 places that carry it and the gears themeselves cost $6 n then like $6-$7 for shipping http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._2020_22537386 |
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| | #2 |
| Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: IOWA
Posts: 19
| http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB48&P=Z $10.78 shipped from Tower Hobbies. Did you try eBay? "Edited to fix link " Last edited by EARRNHARDT3; 10-08-2008 at 04:53 AM. |
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| | #3 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
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| | #4 |
| ~Doin' it Dawg style!~ ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,020
| When you get the new gears, be sure to re-shim them for a tighter fit. Also check the pinion bearings for slop, and replace them as needed. I had one go bad and it allowed the pinion to "walk away" from the ring gear, which eventually stripped out. WK's are notorious for R/P gear slop, which leads to quicky trashed gears. Just a heads up post... T.D. |
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| | #5 | |||
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA
Posts: 596
| Quote:
link didnt work :-( Quote: sweet thx man! now i gotta order me one of em Quote:
alright thx man..how exaclty do i shim them | |||
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| | #6 |
| ~Doin' it Dawg style!~ ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,020
| I used the large ones from this pack: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMC2 I couldn't find any from HPI but these seem to be the right size. Place the shims behind the ring gear until the mesh feels right (no slop but still moves smoothly). Usually one or two does the trick. This moves the ring gear closer to the pinion gear. The pinion gear I refered to is the input shaft and gear on the axle. If those bearings go bad, you won't have good gear engagement and the diff gears will fail quickly. T.D. Last edited by TrailDawg362; 10-08-2008 at 11:17 AM. |
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| | #7 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA
Posts: 596
| alright thx man..ill have to order some of those then to or get sum at my lhs |
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| | #8 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: emmaus
Posts: 64
| Hey guys a quick question I think I may have done the same thing but when I tore mine apart everything looked fine I did how ever notice when I took the diff apart it looked kike I chunked some of the bevel gears which bothy diffs were locked with lb weld so I replaced them put everything back together and it still makes a noise kinda like the spur and pinion are stripped but thats not the case either and it only makes thye noise when trying to statr to climb anh obstacle is this the same thing you guys encountered or could this be something totally diffrent I ve been in this hobby for a long time and can usually figure out whats going on bit this one has me stumped thanks for any help |
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| | #9 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA
Posts: 596
| Quote:
yea thats the same prob i had..hmm u just gave me an idea..maybe i need to check my shimming cuz my gears look fine to but i figured it didnt take much for it to skip teeth..maybe i just need to reshim it..il check it out | |
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| | #10 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 82
| did you guys ever considered the slipper in the tranny? that might be somethign to look at, I had the same prob,, tore my diffs apart rebuilt, them, and th enoise persited, my WK has it's tranny gutted in order to lock the slipper in it |
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| | #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Leander, Tx
Posts: 494
| 2 piece pinions suck. buy the hardened gear set from hpi and be done with it. |
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| | #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: usa
Posts: 168
| sounds like u guys need to ckeek your shiming . i thought i did this to mine the other day but it was the spurr gear had 2 teeth off it an that where it sliped at |
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| | #13 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA
Posts: 596
| Quote:
nah i was on a rock and it got bound up and it clicked really loud and the rear end wasnt turning so i let off n then i did it again and felt the rear pumpkin and i could feel the gears skippin teeth but good idea | |
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| | #14 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: emmaus
Posts: 64
| hey guys I ujust noticed something on my rig I came home tonight from work and went in to the work room to look at the truck and noticed while the truck was completely together after I thought I solved my problem but didn't hear is my question before I tear all apart again with the driveshafts and all hooked up when I tryed to move the pinion on the rear axle there is no play but the front axles pinion is where there is movement a little front to back so what I am asking is this where I should reshim my pinion inside the front axle thanks. |
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| | #15 |
| ~Doin' it Dawg style!~ ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,020
| I would say shimming behind the pinion (inside the axle case) would be best. This will keep it closer to the centerline of the ring gear. I don't know offhand what size the shims are, but a quick look at the manual (that thing we never read:-P) should provide the answer. Can't seem to find mine at the moment... T.D. |
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| | #16 |
| Gold Star Baby! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Gone 1.1 crawling
Posts: 1,803
| I am running the metal tranny gears and shimmed my pinion now i just break axles. Gonna try the intergys. Strc rear lock outs work great. |
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| | #17 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: emmaus
Posts: 64
| I finally think I figured out my problem it's not the diffs or incorrect shimming I am almost certain it is in the tranny tore it apart the other night and whay I believe happened was I had tried a mod that I found on here a while back about removing the spring between the two gears and replacing with a spacer such as a pre load spacer for a shock so I tried it and worked good for a while but it seems now it has maybe grounded down a little from the friction and was not pushing enough on the smaller gear in between the other two gears and I believe that is what is skipping and making the noise.I wanted to lock the tranny but really couldn't find any info so now I am wondering should I replace the gear set in the tranny or maybe order the hpi gear reduction box any comments or suggestions are welcome thanks,glenn |
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| | #18 |
| ~Doin' it Dawg style!~ ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,020
| You might want to replace the trans gears with an alloy set to eliminate the slipper entirely. There's a few companies that make them. The plastic teeth are probably worn enough to still slip under load. After thats taken care of, you could add the reduction unit and it should be good to go. T.D. |
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| | #19 |
| Gold Star Baby! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Gone 1.1 crawling
Posts: 1,803
| I got the metal tranny gears from ckrc (19 dollars)and havent had a problem since. I am running a rooster crawler with a 65t integy, with rear strc lock outs and shimmed front and rear diff. The only problem I have now is breaking front axles. Gotta have a weak spot somewere. |
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| | #20 |
| ~Doin' it Dawg style!~ ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,020
| You're breaking axles? That's odd, I haven't heard of anyone doing that, they seem pretty beefy. I did manage to snap the axle housing in two, though (bad landing off a berm!). I have the CKRC gears also, no probs since. T.D. |
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