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Old 02-14-2010, 02:53 AM   #21
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cool i was going to do that
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Old 02-14-2010, 03:57 AM   #22
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Don't stop 'cause a me! Build your own version.
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Old 02-14-2010, 04:27 AM   #23
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i think i just might
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:32 AM   #24
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Nearing complete on my generic Jeep drawing. This is five sheets, standard letter size when printed out.
For such a slab-sided, took two days to design in the 40's vehicle, this has some darn elusive dimensions in the front...
I hate angles...curves can be a problem, but at least I've gotten k-factors under my belt long ago.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K-facto...etal)#K-factor

Note that I went "High-Hood", unlike the Tamiya GrandDaddy.


Here's a sample printout, at 100% size. Every single shape you see here has changed already! But these ARE the parts I have in the initial article.


A sheet of thin ABS is first covered with Contac paper, and then the backs of the printouts were shot with Super90 spray adhesive, and stuck in place for cutting.

NO POWER TOOLS, except a small drill, were needed to make the body here in the pics. Other than what you see here, only 9-1/2 (or so) fingers were required to cut them out. I just deeply scored over the cut lines with the Stanley blade, and snapped the parts out.


The prototype tub partially assembled using Oatey black plumbing cement.


Again, a cake-decorating bottle is THE shizzles for applying glue of this type, because it's a runny mess otherwise. Also, it keeps fumes down to an absolute minimum. While this tub LOOKS thin, it's .063" thick, 1/16th inch, and will outlive my interest in running it.


I kept the 'stock' Wild Willy2 body mount locations where they were, but when I go to make additional bodies, I'll draw up a hidden mount system for them.


Once I get finalized shapes for plastic, I think I might morph it into a design that uses baking pans for build materials, so it can be mangled.
Just 'skinning' this one with such, and high-polishing it might be kinda trick, too, hm...


the front body mount there holding the ESC has been temporarily removed, but it or a similar item will be in the finished assembly.


My first try at forming a hood. (While DESIGN-ing 'k-factor" is a cake-walk, MAKE-ing 'k-factor'd" stuff, is an art, one I'm still working on.).
My design for the hood is cribbed from the old Jeep Military
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M715
M17 truck...(which you may see more of later...I LIKE it...)
but with a stylized grille cribbed from the '33 Willys:



So the raised and peaked panels were added. A matching set go on top of the dash.

More pics to come...
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:12 PM   #25
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i really like it so far
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #26
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thanks!


Made up another hood and cowl, and got the dash in.


Also made the grille and the front fenders, complete with wheel-well panels.


It's a way-'high-hood" model!


It's all taped down here over a top-view print, and the hood DOES come off. The rest is all one chunk now.


I love how the v'd hood looks. Makes me want to make a copy of "The Car" from that old James Brolin flick. How hard can it be to make a motorized slab?


Top view- next to Tammie. I added exactly one inch to the hood length, and then peaked it by .200".

More to come after unmasking...
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:29 PM   #27
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Now the servo doesn't look so forlorn hanging out there. I'm going to shear off the mount, extend the frame forward, and re-mount it.


I still have to do a rollbar, and a windshield for it.


Next build gets a smaller tranny hump, this one was cobbled up to get dimensions that 'worked', and has been refined into the drawing.


I think more John Deere paint would be a good idea...will give it that "pounded back into working order again' look, and I won't have to worry about wavy panels- I really don't want to put the time into the smoothing that could make this look really good.
It's just going to get beat on anyway!
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:49 PM   #28
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thats bad ass bro"thumbs up"lol
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Old 02-15-2010, 05:24 PM   #29
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You may have seen* how the bumpers were whipped up this morning (literally) from scraps of .063" ABS sheet.
Burly, huh?
Headlamps are 16 super-bright LED's from two tactical flashlights.
I think I'll run them off their own LiPo so they're always blinding anybody directly in front of it.
I mean lighting the trail.


The lamp lenses are glued in, but slightly recessed, so masking won't be an issue at painting time. It may or may not get parking lamps in those lower holes.
At first, I wanted to make a better-looking grille, but the more I look at the wavy nature of this one, I like it.
I'm going to dent up the body to match...



I decided to NIX the Tamiya body mounting post geometry, and the whole idea of posts as well.
The body got reinforcing strips bonded onto the bottom. The four screws that you can barely make out...


are threaded into standard Tamiya 3mm flange nuts, that you can't see at all, because they're buried in a few layers of ABS cement.
The nuts become 'threaded metal inserts" in the body structure, once I back the screws out.


And the body will mount just like a real Jeep, four 3mm screws will hold it to these body mounts, which were made using the same methodology found in the bumper project:
*http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...74#post2301974
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:05 AM   #30
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MegaWilly's back on it's..feet... for the moment. I've extended the frame both front and rear, and put the bumpers on.
Yeah, I see that gap at the grille...not sure if it 'needs' fixing.
This IS a Basher.


I guess I WILL fill in the holes in the rear deck, tho.


The body's in it's final position, and the rear axle is 1/2" behind the wheel well centerlines. It just looked 'funny" lined up, after all.
Front axle is almost an inch further forward, than in a Tamiya WildWilly2.


The back bumper got mounted as well, and it is on a removeable subframe that ties into the rear body mounts.


Even though they are thin and lightweight, the bumpers are incredibly strong- I accidentally stepped on one, and all it did was hurt my foot!
I imagine the back one will get some grinding,so a wheely bar is planned. It will mount to the bottom of the pinion yoke in the rear, so it's isolated from the suspension for stability.
I'd like to use a real WW2 wheelie bar and mono-wheel. Hm.

Since I made these arms, I've seen the Gmade ones that look eerily similar, for MOA applications...too funny how you can re-invent a wheel, without realizing it.


We're still nose-up here. You can see my front body mounts just below the front bumper, inside the frame rails. Note the easy to get at, but still out of the way shock mounts. I can pull the shocks without removing the Mondo tires, and this setup keeps the axles free of the usual clutter of clamps.


This is the ugliest, funnest project I done so far in RC. I can't wait to paint it yellow, and grime it all up.

Scale beer cans needed...


I used SST screws to mount the tub to the frame.


The rear mounts need screws yet and a bit more chem-welding. I've added inner rear fender panels here, too.



I've allowed a TON of room in the engine compartment. The body mounts barely intrude at all.
A Parma Hemi would look KILLER in here...but I know they're FRAGILE, and don't survive in anything that, um, moves.



This is where the Lipe will be stashed, under the front cowl. I'm making a shelf to hold it, the radio, and the speed control, which will get a quickie 'V8" disguise. I think the steering servo will end up "WK stock, in the frame rear, using a shortened linkage to the front suspension.
Note the reinforcing 'fishplates" on the inner chassis rails here. the bumper's gonna hit stuff, and it isn't coming back off.



You know, I think I might be making a mistake in planning to sand this and paint it. The black looks good and sinister, and wear and tear will make it look even better as the 'shine' goes away. And the removed welds and glue blobs look so familiar to anybody who's re-worked, a reworked and re-worked frame.


I need a windshield, and some detail for the tailgate. Hey, a steering wheel would be a good idea, too. Haven't decided on a rollbar yet, or a driver figure...ideas?

Although it looks like the back bumper's mounted closer in than the front, they are both exactly the same distance from the vehicle center.
So-is it HEAVY? Nope- the body weighs less than a third of the WW2, and that's without the metal WW2 rollcage added.


If this isn't a MONSTER truck, I've never seen one. I'm nervous with it in the dark, like it's somehow absorbed all the accumulated evil of my 48 years of life. I think it's the grille.
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Old 02-21-2010, 05:46 PM   #31
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RedWilly gets a front drive axle and the implement wheels/Clod tires, and we call it Megawilly, as it will be now.

My foggy memories came RIGHT back, and there was a REASON the original MegaWilly didn't last: It's like driving a beach ball. About zero stability, as it's as high as it is wide. It can't climb, it may as well be a lowrider...

So, what to do with the Sinister Cinema Body?

DrillBuggy!!!!!!


Simple trailing link/coilover suspension.


Shocks from when Clinton was President.


This needs a steering link and a bellcrank to be functionally complete.



Wheelbase is EXACTLY 10.5 inches.


The shocks and the rear axle are the only kit RC car parts here. Oh, the front hubs are from an old RS4MT- still in the family!


This is actually a test bed for putting all these parts into a big truck. If it works out, I can drop the CAD right onto the frame I've drawn up.



Is it a car? A truck? A tractor?



It still looks like it hates Life.
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:31 PM   #32
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Well, a few things I'm happy about,

a few things, not so much.

I'm happy I didn't make a wheelie bar yet. A schoolboy reverse-snap is the only way to get the nose up, and that's an inch at best on carpet.

I like the torque! If I add a locked differential, this will move furniture.

When it takes off at full throttle, it gives a nice unload to the front tires, like an idiot driving a fully-loaded truck full of bricks.

OK, the notsomuch: It's slowwww. We're so used to FAST.
I had to go watch fire engine and Mil truck videos on YouTube to feel better.
Now it seems pretty clippy...

If you've wondered about using a Harbor Freight cordless drill for a motor/tranny, smile BIG, because it works, and I'm going to refine THIS concept:
The plan is to first find a suitable BIG transmission to 'copy" into a cover for the drill's planetary setup, complete with a bellhousing flange.
Then I can draw up an Allison, Detroit Diesel, etc., to put over the DC motor.

Even in a 4x4 or more, no further gear reduction is needed. You could assemble a transfer case with equal-sized gears, making things a lot cheaper/simpler.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:53 AM   #33
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Hi I like that black body
Do you have the drawings as a PDF in full size ??
I'd love to build a body like that
I already have all the abs plastic in 1/16" and 6mm sheets
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:38 PM   #34
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http://www.air-sharp.com/jeep1.pdf

Does this work. Yes? No?...
more to come if it does...
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:26 PM   #35
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Yes it worked just fine ..plz post the rest
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:59 PM   #36
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http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...42#post2331142
The patterns in jpg and pdf.
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