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Old 03-06-2009, 10:45 AM   #1
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Default Willy King

I immediately wanted a WK to do this to when it was announced two years ago. I've gone thru 4 WW2's, so I have many bodies around. I always felt Tamiya dropped the ball by not making a 4WD version of the venerable old Jeep.
My plan is to use the WW2 from the frame rails up.
Actually to design to use the stock rails. Mine here will have CNC'd rails to give me more room under the body for alternate battery mounts.

Have ShopBot, will cut plastic...


I'm keeping the stock battery location, and servo mount. My wife will end up with this for a basher, so I'm keeping the ability to wheelie. I have an uber-servo to install, so steering should be adequate.
(Note: The Tamiya WildWilly2 is a chick magnet. Wifey had nothing but disdain for RC's til she saw one. This will be her third one!)


The shocks get moved down to lower the CG a bit, and get them out of where the body wants to be. I'm making lower mounts that link across the lower suspension arms, acting as swaybars somewhat. This ISN'T going to be a crawler!


The odd top chassis line allows the WildWilly's frame rails to bolt on.
why make the custom frame, and not just a set of body mounts? The stock shock towers make the body sit wayyy too high.

More to come...

EDIT: The frame you see on the CNC in the first pic is newer than the one on the truck, but is identical. Yes, I'm planning a twin for myself.
-Anybody else done this yet?

Last edited by killbucket; 03-06-2009 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:28 PM   #2
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Test Mockup. Stunt Beanie was not harmed.


Haven't smoothed any cut edges yet, while I'm still adding brackets. all build material is 6mm ABS sheet from interstateplastics.com. Glue used is Oatey's Black ABS cement. ...Yes, plastic drain pipe goober.
Note how every stock screw is counter-bored into the frame, just as on the original -strong.


I'm already thinking about making a higher bottom shock mount. It didn't look that low in the CAD file...


Yeah, them drive angles are a bit "off".


Stock mount locations are used for everything, the wheely bar goes right on like it was meant to be there. She loves wheelies, so the battery stays in back. I'm making up a weight to snap on to the front, for normal driving.


I REALLY wanted to make a short wheelbase chassis for this, to look more scale to the body. The driveshafts end up being little stubs, using conventional thinking when doing this.
converting to top-loads on the axles WOULD work, but be a pain and expense to set up. Maybe if I turned the tranny upside-down?...hmmm.

I just ordered another WheelyKing...for me to take apart!

Last edited by killbucket; 03-10-2009 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:22 PM   #3
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Nice work!
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:51 AM   #4
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca4k24STGyA
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:59 PM   #5
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The wheel base -not 'track'...is 7.25 inches.


MASSIVE Image Slam Coming. Ice your modems down.

Last edited by killbucket; 02-06-2010 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:58 PM   #6
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more coming...
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:20 PM   #7
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Enough CAD, on to actual parts assembly:























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Old 02-06-2010, 07:25 PM   #8
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Last edited by killbucket; 02-06-2010 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:32 PM   #9
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:54 AM   #10
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CAD is your friend...lissen to CAD. Well, at least ask it.

NOTE: You've probably noticed the rough edges on all of the part so far...this is experience in cobbling...I'm glad I hadn't prettied up those upper arms yet, the time would have been lost at this moment... I've found it better NOT to de-burr parts until final detailing.

Last edited by killbucket; 02-07-2010 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:20 AM   #11
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A quick look at the vectors describes the issue.

Yellow lines/dots are the stock Wheely King geometry and suspension pivot points.

Red, is my Wk/WW2 Hybrid. The inner, upper arm mounts are tucked in and up to the spur gear cover, which projects into the area occupied by the arms themselves. It doesn't matter that I flipped the gearbox in my work- the result is the same, due to the chassis' symmetry.

The stock WK has a 75% anti-squat/anti-dive designed into its arm angles. In other words, it resists 75% of forces that try to nose-dive it on stopping, or let it rear back on take-off.

Mine has...zippo. If I raise the lower, inner arm pivots by .13" (there IS room to do this) I get 64%, which should be about right.

Last edited by killbucket; 02-07-2010 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:32 PM   #12
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uNyPefjS88
Y' MAY get why I linked this....More t'morrow!
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:02 AM   #13
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Ima ScorpsFan from when they (and me) were nobody (I still pretty much am)...

I mostly liked the production Co name...heehee.


So here's upper arms, revision two (I'm worried, rev 2 of anything is always wrong). I HAVe test-fitted them, and there's plenty of clearance for the drive cases now. If I had a bit more time I wanted to put into these, I could sweep the part shapes out more, and end up with more direct load paths.
But this doesn't weigh 2500lbs, so I think I'll put CAD time into something more FUN.
Note that the separate coils have vanished from the CAD print...separate coils disappear from projects faster than friends with needed cash. But before they're even THERE?

Nobody seems to get separate coils to work...or have I missed that setup?


Even though only one end needs the dog-legged a-frame, I made a second just in case the dis-symmetry keeps me from sleeping.


The rear axle, steering lock-out.

If you haven't tried working with ABS plastic (www.interstateplastics.com), you're missing out.

I almost never use metals. Most builders resort to extruded aluminum for anything structural*, and they really don't need to..
Easy to cut, drill, and bond (really! OATEY Black ABS cement- in your plumbing aisle), I've made some nearly indestructible assemblies from it.
They typically out-last my interest in keeping them around (..."this now resides in a landfill..." is a recurring theme in my posts), and I yard them apart for the hardware, and move on.


Ooopley-goopley with the goo, dude (save some for next time!). It was getting late, and dark...too lazy to flick a light switch, I just goobered, knowing this bracket would need as much 'weld' as possible for its size. I'll smooth it out later before painting.


HaHa, 'painting'...think I'll skip the PPG coatings this time. Everything's black, so wet-sanded may be the best it gets.
then again, wrapping each item in a net bag, and fogging on some paint, I could do THIS


to them all, and would that be tight or what.


Now I don't have this happening anymore.

More stuff coming on this-
I need to decide if this gets separate coils/shocks, if it will have long shocks on levers, or short shocks. I only want about 3/4" travel at each corner (WW2's a Pavement Queen, remember?), and all my "medium' length shocks are old HPI RS4MT's with those notorious fine-thread caps...

*My HEMTT will get a chassis made of thin .060" ABS sheet- I will be drawing/making this item today.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:08 AM   #14
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Got Travel now.

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Old 02-10-2010, 03:47 PM   #15
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Toys-models...-265919176.htm

I have to laff...I tossed most of mine...in the recycle bin.

worth $200? mm, mebbe not THAT much, but all online listings say not available.

At least I kept the wheels and tires...
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Old 02-11-2010, 03:30 PM   #16
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Last edited by killbucket; 02-11-2010 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:46 PM   #17
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One last look with the Wheely King wheels and tires. Can ya tell I like coffee?


Hm, bigger IS better...


Decisions, decisions. duh, go with the mondos.


This could work... Radio Shack rim, Clodbuster tire! But the rim edge looks a bit chunky...



Both inner and outer rim halves have those thick rim edges.


Chuck'd up.


Chewed up.


Sized up...


Mounted up.


Hey, they still clear the shocks.


Actually, there's a ton of room with my suspension design.


Everything's all tucked up to the diffs.


I bet you're wondering about my steering setup.


I robbed the MG hi-tork out of the SofaKing...



Made a bracket for the front of the frame to hold it.


The John Deere green paint only points out that it really, really needs a bumper to protect it.


Also there to protect it is my version of a hydraulic servo-saver.


Made from a spare WK shock, it has opposing springs inside it, so it's spring-loaded in both directions.


It, like all the shocks, are filled with Dawn dish detergent, not oil. Any leaks will be home-friendly.


I may have to put thicker springs inside it for these doughnuts, however.


You wouldn't think so, but the wheels can steer without hitting the back tires!


Just barely, though...


Looking down from the top, the track is nearly as wide as the overal length. -It's almost 'square"!



I think it does its predecessor justice...








want more?
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:58 AM   #18
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CAD says that drive-shafts WILL fit, I'm still digging up suitable stock to make them from, because I don't want to chop up the originals, which would just barely fit, anyway.


With ClodBuster tires (on my own homemade implement wheels), the look is pure comicbook.


The axles can get 2.4 inches closer together than you see here, at 7.48" apart.
A Stock Tamiya Wild Willy2 is 6.25 inches wheelbase; I had to lengthen it some to get the previously mentioned steering clearances.

I can't wait to drive this thing!


See all that AIR under the axles? It's all tucked up tight.


Gonna hit the hardware store today for some chrome caps to go into the wheel centers.


The Molex connector next to the seat has to go yet, I have to wire the old Novak 610RV ESC (nearly 20 years old!) to run off the 11.1v LiPo Helicopter pack. I still have to show you that, come to think of it...


The tires weigh more than the rest of it does, including the aforementioned battery.


I covered the gastank with aluminum sheet...it came out kinda crappy, will need a redo.


I'm thinking of making a custom hood/nose for this, like the old pointed-nose Jeeps.


Just grinding some beans for a pot o' Joe. Note that I don't have a problem with solder joints and shrink-wrap...Ta heck with pretty.












Still more to come!

Last edited by killbucket; 02-12-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:15 AM   #19
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Making the front body mount. I used .060" ABS sheet, and a 100% size print as a pattern.


I slightly revised them at cut-out, tho, and left a step on them for the body to sit on. Now I don't have to use two body clips on each post.


Assembled in-situ, so they fit exactly.


I stuck them into place on the chassis while they were still mounted to the underside of the hood (The body fits with zero wiggle to it).


Added a small shelf to hold the ESC between the uprights, and then a small tab to keep that pesky heatsink on (it's a miracle I still have this).


Doubt Novak quality, and be a fool. I bought this ESC for a Traxxas Sledgehammer...in '92 or '93. -Last century!
Get this- it's never needed to be re-adjusted. NEVER.


You've now looked at 200 pics of this...Yes, my welds need cleaning up, especially from the shockmount-cobbling activity. Once I get everything working smoothly, I'll blow it all apart, and wet-sand all the ABS, and coat it with gloss black. Or olive drab...



The battery pack sits in the back, so we still get WHEELIES!!!
Well, hopefully, the LiPo weighs nearly nothing.


It's the best part of the Esky copter I kept buying parts for.



The battery sits next to a ~20 year old RCD Shredder Micro Receiver.


Which has its own tight-fitting compartment.


Note that I can still get a thumb onto the equally-tight-fitting battery pack, to remove it also. Gotta think ahead.


Here you get a good look at my antenna mount, and how the sides of the battery box serve as the stops for the rear body posts. Similar to the front layout, they only need the one clip each to hold the body down.


Still yet to make is a top/rear cover for the radio/battery box, and those darn drive-shafts I keep putting off....

OH YEAH- what's inside that steering dampner:


Last edited by killbucket; 02-12-2010 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:05 AM   #20
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Me and Old Willy just wernt a gettin' along. Note sawcut. I decided bag it, just whip up a body that IS shaped right underneath. It's less work to make a whole one, than to cobble onto the Tammy body.


And I never liked that SEAT, anyway.
Dimensions (so far!) are duped from Tamiya's fine work, but that stubby nose is gonna get a make-over.


Set side-by-each, you can see the similarity and differences. Mine weighs a fraction of the original.


Because of the Wk drive motor's placement, a trans tunnel was mandatory. I'll finish this up later today. Notice I'm keeping the stock WW2 body mount locations- My body is made to fit a stock one , as well.



The CAD said it would be snug, and snug it is. Motor isn't bolted in-that's why it's crooked a bit here.
This body will be strong enough that I could just put suspension mounts on IT, and make a Monocoque/Unibody Jeep!

I can now make a JEEP any size I want, by scaling my patterns...

Last edited by killbucket; 02-13-2010 at 08:07 AM.
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