Brand new to the forum.

[CREEPINKING]

Just wanted to say whats up and ask a few questions. I have a WK that I have had for over a year now and it is slowly taking shape. As of now it has a rooster crawler esc with a novak 55 turn motor. Axel mounted JR ST126MG servo, front chassis mounted Lipo with a custom rear esc,tx mount. Proline beadlocks with Masher 2k tires. And a few bling pieces throughout. Really clean looking setup. The only thing is that I have some issues that hopefully you guys can help me work out. Also It has been stretched to a 12.5 in. wheelbase and is 10 in. in width from center to center of front tires. This probably has a lot to do with my first problem. I have very little steering on the rocks. It just kinda wants to push in a straight line. I have tried several different configurations with my steering links and really cant find anything I am happy with. The closest I have come is getting it to steer fairly well to the right but it suffers to the left. So any tips would help there. Also I am very interested in mounting the motor/tranny on its side and fabbing a new chassis. I have access to stainless and aluminum sheets and a sheet metal background so the fab work is not a problem. Just wanted to get some info on mounting, the tranny seems way to tall to me. I have seen some of the posts with the cutting board chassis and I really like that idea but need some tips on mounting. It has an integy alum. chassis that is really nice but sits way to tall. Kinda wanted to go a lil lower. Well sorry for the long post but any tips would be appreciated.
THANKS,
Jason(CREEPINKING)

[rottenbelly]

As for your steering, What kinda of radio are you running? A radio that has End Point Adjustments will help ALOT! A high torque servo with 300 plus OZ of torque will help also. But i wouldnt run one on a radio with EPA'S or without programming it with a servo stercher. It would burn out most likely.
I am about to start a homemade chassis build this coming week. I have made a few. I like to mount the tranny sideways and clock the motor.
Pic of clocked motor.

[CREEPINKING]

Its still a stock tx/rx. Was going to see about a dig setup before choosing a new radio. But thats future talk. I still think its a mechanical thing but I can see no visible signs of it making contact anywhere. I had a hunch that since it has a wider stance it would turn less but I removed the kit and only a minimul improvement. I drove an axial the other day and was impressed with the steering and figured that this was a common thing on the kings. I am interested in laying the transmission on its side but cant find much about it. Mounting seems pretty straight foward but I know nothing about clocking the motor.

[rottenbelly]

Originally Posted by CREEPINKING

Its still a stock tx/rx. Was going to see about a dig setup before choosing a new radio. But thats future talk. I still think its a mechanical thing but I can see no visible signs of it making contact anywhere. I had a hunch that since it has a wider stance it would turn less but I removed the kit and only a minimul improvement. I drove an axial the other day and was impressed with the steering and figured that this was a common thing on the kings. I am interested in laying the transmission on its side but cant find much about it. Mounting seems pretty straight foward but I know nothing about clocking the motor.

Crawlerx and east end machining make a buch of goodies for the wk.
You will need a 3 channel radio for a dig unit. A good radio is a must if you plan on doing any serious crawling/ comping.

[CREEPINKING]

Thanks for the info. Yea I agree on the radio but really want to work with the chassis before that happens. I saw some templates on another post I may try one of those. Just need to figure out the transmission and motor clocking. But hey the more I read the more I know and this forum is full of info. Ive got a nice piece of stainless to work with so I might try to fab something over the weekend.

[CREEPINKING]

ohh I get it now. East end machining has the clocked motor plates. problem solved. Thanks.

[wanantrdsc]

A good and inexpensive radio/receiver combo would be a Traxxas TQ3 tx and a 3 or 4 channel Traxxas receiver. I use a TQ3 tx, a 4-channel micro rx, and a TP MG996r servo, which has ~210oz of torque.

I also run M2K's on front Traxxas revolver style rims on all fours. My WB is 13.5", and my stance is 11.5". I have no steering problems at all. I use a 2 sided servo horn, and a Traxxas Rustler VXL steering toe-link and attach it to the steering knuckle just on top of the end of the steering rod. So its not using the steering rod to steer initially, its using the steering knuckle. I fabricated an aluminum steering link.

[CREEPINKING]

I ended up using two links and got it steering pretty good I guess my geometry was just off. I went with a shorter link going to one hub and a longer one going to the other side and did away with the tie rod that connects the two hubs. It steers with authority now! Also I looked at some chassis designs and started fabbing one based off of offroads widow design. I changed a few things but the concept is still all widow. I cut my side plates out of stainless and man are they bulletproof. All thats left now is the cutting board skid and mounting. It almost seems a shame to ditch all of the bling parts that really did nothing but make the king overweight. The only problem I run into now is a lower link selection. I have the angled links now but they are way to long, was wondering if the Losi mini crawler links would work? I need an overall length of 3 5/8 in. but cannot find any specs on any links other than turnbuckles and the like. Anyone know any good links around this size? I do not compete but would still like to have a legal rig just in case. This forum has been a great help into making the king a scorpion killer. Hopefully! Thanks again. Now is when I need a camera. Would be great to do a before and after.

[rottenbelly]

I use 5/16ths or 3/8 derlin rod from mcmaster carr for my links. Also some revo rod ends. Easy to cut and drill to whatever length you need.
Its only like 97 cents a foot or so, I have about 20 ft laying around for my next few projects.

[CREEPINKING]

Now thats my kinda place! Thanks for sharing. Did you use the the rod and drill a hole or did you use the tube and tap the screw into it?

[wanantrdsc]

Originally Posted by CREEPINKING

I ended up using two links and got it steering pretty good I guess my geometry was just off. I went with a shorter link going to one hub and a longer one going to the other side and did away with the tie rod that connects the two hubs. It steers with authority now! Also I looked at some chassis designs and started fabbing one based off of offroads widow design. I changed a few things but the concept is still all widow. I cut my side plates out of stainless and man are they bulletproof. All thats left now is the cutting board skid and mounting. It almost seems a shame to ditch all of the bling parts that really did nothing but make the king overweight. The only problem I run into now is a lower link selection. I have the angled links now but they are way to long, was wondering if the Losi mini crawler links would work? I need an overall length of 3 5/8 in. but cannot find any specs on any links other than turnbuckles and the like. Anyone know any good links around this size? I do not compete but would still like to have a legal rig just in case. This forum has been a great help into making the king a scorpion killer. Hopefully! Thanks again. Now is when I need a camera. Would be great to do a before and after.

Another option is to look at the various parts lists for
Traxxas vehicles - linkage, toe-links, tie-rods, turnbuckles, etc., and then find them on eBay. My upper and lower links are from the T-Maxx. Just did not like the threaded rod/aluminum tubing deal - not clean enough for my taste, and not adjustable.

[rottenbelly]

Originally Posted by CREEPINKING

Now thats my kinda place! Thanks for sharing. Did you use the the rod and drill a hole or did you use the tube and tap the screw into it?

I just drill a hole in the end and it self threads itself when i put the threaded link things in. ( I just drill them deep enough for the link connectors.) East end makes a little jig for them, Im thinking of getting one since i am making quite a few chassis's and links now.
http://www.eastendmachining.com/lidrjig.html
Will post up some pics next time i build some stuff.

[CREEPINKING]

Im gonna try some of that.

[KBrog]

Here are some ideas for your WK. This is what I did on my scaler.

[CREEPINKING]

Nice KBrog. I like the scaler look. I think this time around I'm going with a comp. rig. I did notice in another post that you said something about locking the transmission with 4 screws. The clicker hasnt started slipping on mine yet but why take the chance. Does this give the gears inside the trans. more of a chance to strip?

[rottenbelly]

Originally Posted by CREEPINKING

Nice KBrog. I like the scaler look. I think this time around I'm going with a comp. rig. I did notice in another post that you said something about locking the transmission with 4 screws. The clicker hasnt started slipping on mine yet but why take the chance. Does this give the gears inside the trans. more of a chance to strip?

I never had a problem with my tranny gears clicking. I have run some monster motors (Holmes Hobbies) That would strip axle ring and pinions in a heartbeat!! I once went thru 3 sets of axle gears in one weekend. Tranny held up great.. Rc4wd make metal tranny gears now. And CKRC has some aluminum tranny gears. (Which i now run).
Link to my build thread/ rig.
Rottenbellys DNA WK pro comp build.