new to forum, my WK, and some motor Q's?

[hillbillybob]

So ive been watching the forum for a bit and found mounds of informations, tips, and how to's. So keep up the good work!
I have dabbled in RC for the last 15 years not really keeping up in the latest and greatest and more just having fun with what i have (because there wasnt forums like this when i started) Ive had a couple electric boats, one nitro boat, my dad and i built a nitro plane and wrecked it, 18th scale 4wd electric buggy, and a 12th scale 4wd nitro buggy. I never really tinkered with them and just used them in stock form.

I recently traded my nitro buggy for a basicly stock WK. the kid looked to be about 15 and it appears that he had it apart and tinkered with it because it has some mismatched screws but otherwise pretty solid. hehad put aluminum lower links, a Traxxas XL-5 esc, and put in a HPI GT550 14.4v (12t?) motor with a 87/27 spur/pinion combo for more of a basher setup. and gave me the stock motor and battery that came with it

The mods I have done in order to date
-put the 27t stock motor back in
-hot glued the diffs (like better than jb weld cause i can remove if i want)
-made axle mount servo plate (5 minutes to destroy a servo i had laying around) took back out
-bought 90t spur and lhs gave me a 13t pinion, spur didnt have enough diameter to mesh with pinion
- bought 16t, still didnt mesh, back to 27t
-got 2- 7.2v 5000mAh NiHM packs and Hitec 645-MG (135 oz) steer servo
-bought a jconcepts 2011 ford superduty body (looks like raptor to me)
-bought 1.9 proline beadlocks and TSl SX's at advice of lhs that "they arent that much smaller" got home and mounted them. loved look, hated size.
-cut 2.5 coils out of stock springs to lower chassis but still have extension
-performed proper chassis flip (axles, C's and servo to other side of chassis to realign with axle bellcrank)
-traded 1.9 setup for 2.2 axial scorpion beadlocks and hot bodies crawler tires
-zip ties on now front shock bodies because the battery weight sunk the chassis farther than i'd like
-built my own bent lower links
-ebay'ed a 96t spur (Kimbrough 142 Differential Gear 48p 96t) not HPI but bolts right in. had to file top of trans slightly to get 13t to mesh but works great.


Things i dont like or need to adress
-slipper clutch just started to click so im going to tear apart and lock that shortly
-want to strech wheelbase a little but need to order drivelines and need to figure out how to stech steering linkage as i didnt care for the axle mount servo.

My whole reason for posting is that motor turn/size, spur/pinion, and esc/motor capacties are blowing my mind. I think that attempting to wheel the 87/27 spur/pinion combo put way to much load on stock 27t motor and burned up the brushes because before i got the 96/13 setup in, it acted like it had a dead battery pack and had no power to pop up over any obstacle. So i started looking at motors and wanted to keep it reasonably cheap and not upgrade to brushless or lipos. so im thinking my options are 27t (either stock replacement or axial seems decent if it comes in honcho) 45t, or 55t (ive been told both are going to be too slow for my gearing) or could i run the 12 turn with the 13t pinion and be pretty happy? Thanks for reading my book but this is me getting it all out at once.

And i have pictures from when i first brought it home through now


axle mount servo


1.9 Prolines and TSl's Louisiana mud truck status!


How it sits now. thats an 8 in tall beer mug

[scorpiondave]

Be careful about using more powerful motors. The stock gears won't hold up. I've known several people to go through gears, driveshafts, and axles with anything more than stock 27 turn motors. The axle shafts are weak at their narrowest points. If you go too powerful you'll probably have to go to steel gears in the tranny. Beefier driveshafts. HD gears, and CVD's. Good luck.

[hillbillybob]

Originally Posted by scorpiondave

Be careful about using more powerful motors. The stock gears won't hold up. I've known several people to go through gears, driveshafts, and axles with anything more than stock 27 turn motors. The axle shafts are weak at their narrowest points. If you go too powerful you'll probably have to go to steel gears in the tranny. Beefier driveshafts. HD gears, and CVD's. Good luck.

It just snowballs.. alright looks like i will keep a 27 turn in it because i tried to put the 12 turn in last night and it has an extra torque ring around it so the 13 tooth doesnt mesh and with the 16 its too fast for crawling and on carpet from a stand still will still pull both front tires even with the lowered suspension and the chassis flip. steel gears for the trans are on my radar for cheap easy upgrades. How do the E-savage drivelines hold up vs the stock WK ones?

[scorpiondave]

PM sent.

[lonleycreeper]

You are right the snowball is just begining,haha. I ran a wk for a long time on 14\96 gearing on a integy 35 t motor. Enough wheelspeed to get up some loose climbs,but still tons of control.
For links pick up some tubing of your choice and 8/32 all thread, some revo/jato ball ends and you can make your links any length. Revo driveshafts work to.

[adamargue]

I ran a 90t spur and stock pinion on a 55t motor and didn't have too much problem with my gears or dog bones. It really helps to put a straight axle Conversion out back it gives you less things to break.

How did u break your servo from being on the axle? Was it hitting rocks?

You can leangthen your steering by buying some all thread that will thread into the stock rod ends. If you look on eBay you could find a hpi kit to stretch it.

Your rig looks great. I love the wheel king platform.



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[hillbillybob]

Thanks for the input!

i stripped the plastic gears in it tearing around my yard with the basher gears before i had the crawling ones.

from RC4wd i ordered gmade 104mm adjustable shock rather then the internal spring ones i really liked because i like the idea of being able to tune.

I also orded a 20 pack of 3M long thread ball ends and got a bit and tap from work and now just need to to go a local hardware store to get the 1/4 aluminum rod because the smallest my work has laying around is 3/8 so when my parts show up i can grab some lil scraps of angle and machine my own upper axle bracket and strech the wheel base and make it 4 link all in one swoop. and for drivelines im going to try to extend the orginal ones by machining a sleeve and roll pin/set screw to hold it. until i can get some longer ones and i could use these as a guide for how far to cut down the new ones.

[adamargue]

Traxxas maxx slider shafts fit perfect and you can always trim them fit. That's what I have always used never broke one and they are Cheap

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