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04-07-2007, 11:32 PM
| #1 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,121
|  nitro rs4 mt cvd's? so I was looking through tower today, and of course who knows when mid april will be here, i looked through the stuff that came with my WK unfinished project in a box, and all i am missing from 4wd is shafts, bearings, and diff case. of course diff cases and shafts are mid april arrival. I can't justify spending $190 at the LDHS to get another 2wd for parts, so I got to looking. the dogbones for rs4mt are 83mm. the WK shafts are 82. How much longer would the dogbone be with it's drive cup? or how much longer would the cvd's be? You should be able to get a couple of mm out of the C hub mounts with new screw holes. Would the cvd's be stronger? I know they tend to be on the mini trucks, but on the minis they are replacing plastic and alluminum with steel. Didn't know if it would be worth it, considering there still are no diff cases. I may just throw this thing together 2wd just to play until parts arrive. and even then, i don't want to backorder the diff case because it is a $5 part with a minimum of 3pc order. Last edited by hairba11; 04-07-2007 at 11:35 PM. |
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04-07-2007, 11:50 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,136
| Wont work since the Mt CVDs have a dogbone end. You would have to cut that off and machine them to have the same shape as the WK ones |
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04-08-2007, 12:11 AM
| #3 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
| the CVD will be to long.... but you could do this... swhenrik posted this pic in his CXT build...  I pretty much did this same thing.... just remember this will only work in the rear these axles will not allow the knuckles to steer... here are my pics.... Few ?'s before I buy a WK |
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04-08-2007, 04:23 PM
| #4 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: akron OH
Posts: 20
| wat did u make them axels out of |
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04-08-2007, 08:04 PM
| #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
| I used 1/4" steel round stock from lowes and .078 music wire for the pins  its all explained in this thread >> Few ?'s before I buy a WK Last edited by HauntFreaks.com; 04-08-2007 at 08:07 PM. |
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04-08-2007, 08:43 PM
| #6 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,121
| i had considered something like that, maybe even taking them to the lathe at work and turning a ball for 4WS, but there still are no diff cases to attach thm to till mid april, and tower has a minimum preorder of 3 cases. I only need one and don't want to order 3 of tham @ $5 each to get one |
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04-08-2007, 08:54 PM
| #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
| I had an MT parts car laying around so I used one of the diff's from that... but like hairba11 said, unless you machine a ball end on the stock it will only work in the rear because it will not steer... |
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04-08-2007, 10:01 PM
| #8 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
| heres a shot of the MT, DIY axles and WK axle cups combo....  |
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04-09-2007, 12:05 AM
| #9 |
| Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Gainesville
Posts: 10
| Replacement shafts for WK with rs4 diff Hey guys I think I found a replacement part for the DIY shafts when useing a rs4 diff with the drive cups. The replacement shaffts come in a pair for under 9 bucks, they are made by duratrax part number dtxc9662 for the maximum bx. check it out http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTP77&P=M |
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04-09-2007, 06:11 PM
| #10 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 154
| If someone does try to do anything with CVD's, keep in mind the front and rear CVD's on the NMT are completely different from each other, one wheel bearing is huge on the fronts. The WK uses the same style bearings and hub as the NMT REAR. The NMT CVD shaft with the dogbone will be WAY too long with the NMT drive cups installed on the diff. A RS4 3 on-road MIGHT be closer, but someone would have to measure. Cutting the shaft and rejoining it should work, but then you won't be able to run the bearing at the outside of the housing, (which keeps crud out of the housing) similar problem Hauntfreaks and I have with our custom shafts. The next option is cutting the dogbone end off, and grinding the flats on the shaft to engage the spider gears. But if the shaft diameter isn't large enough, you are S.O.L. I tried this with the NMT dogbones, and the diameter is definitely too small. The CVD's MIGHT be bigger, but you'd have to buy one and check..... hopefully someone will do just that! |
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04-09-2007, 07:37 PM
| #11 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,136
| Or try a super nitro CVD that might work if the RS$ one is too short |
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04-10-2007, 01:18 AM
| #12 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Whitecourt
Posts: 89
| I managed to get a pair of old Tmax CVD's to work, had to chop up a pair of Tmax hubs and make adapter plates.   |
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04-10-2007, 07:44 AM
| #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
| Nice fab Wolf great idea with the maxx hubs.... I like the link mount also, any close ups?? |
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04-10-2007, 04:41 PM
| #14 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: akron OH
Posts: 20
| mid april is so far away. im gonna have to try something |
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04-10-2007, 07:13 PM
| #15 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St. Louis (High Ridge)
Posts: 1,121
| Quote:
I'm gonna blow enough on the next tower order regardless.. | |
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04-10-2007, 08:58 PM
| #16 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Whitecourt
Posts: 89
| More pics over at Hustler style full droop Wheelie King |
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