Wheely King Transmission Details
 

The Wheely King Tranny has 4 gears inside:
1. located on the spur gear shaft is a 15 tooth gear (small end of tranny)
2 & 3. Located in the center on the center shaft both are 22 tooth and are separated with a spring this being the slipper gears (I did not disassemble these to look at them any closer) but this is where the clicking comes from when in a hard bind.
4. located on the out drives shaft is a 28 tooth gear
Below are some pics:
Note; only three gears are visible as the center gear has another directly beneath separated by the spring

PIC 1. gear location
PIC 2. cover w/ bearings
PIC 3. gears 2 & 3 with spring / slipper

I hope this helps better understand the WK tranny."thumbsup"



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Excellent pictures, thank you! I was just wondering the other day if I was destroying a diff or something else because I was getting a click every time I tried to climb a rather slippery surface with good grippy ground at the bottom of it. Did the whole thing seem to be put together pretty well to you, or does it look like those of us getting ready to try to build something serious using WK drive trains are going to have problems?

Great pics JIA'sDad! BTW in the first pic the little plastic bushing is still on the middle mount leg (the steering bellcrank rides on this in stock chassis). :)

Cotharyus, the WK tranny looks pretty sturdy inside except I would prefer an external slipper that can be adjusted easily. If yours is slipping too much you could shim the preload spring on the two middle gears...but you'll break axles easier. The slipper could also be completely eliminated by using a spacer between the gears, cross-drilling all three pieces, and then screwing/gluing it all together. Would then need to find an external slipper that will mount on the input shaft.

Guys, I just took the tranny apart again. I may be wrong but locking the tranny may be as simple as inverting the center two gears. What I'm trying to say is, if you remove the center gears and insert the assembly upside down. It will either slip worst and not pull or may lock it up by not allowing the spring to come into play. Reversing the springs rotation.

The tranny is very compact, the gears have very little play and have bearings on both ends. The gear on the spur shaft (small gear) has a pin same as in the drive nuts to the wheels. I would have to say it's very well built.

Ive beat on mine with 5.5 inch tall Red Rocks and the slipper does slip every once in a while but I find that it lets you put down plenty of torque before it slips. It could wear out over time. Also it seems to slip more after it slips the first time. BTW dont take it apart unless you plan to eliminate the slipper. It is a B**** to re-assemble"thumbsup"

You have to be talking about the slipper assembly. It would be hard compressing the spring and replacing that small snap ring. Correct. Cause the rest is simple.

great info to have. so JIA's Dad would say this tranny is a good one or what?
my backordered wk is on its way I think, I cant see another reaosn why my paypal would have been drained of 208 dollars automatically... I cant wait:-P :-P
I want this to be a bargain basement scale trail rig with stock elecs, k2-3s or homemade semi-scale chassis, venom 3300 and a 45t lathe on wk tranny. I was just hopin the tranny would be useable.

they took out my money to and they are in stock now too. it should be hear soon.

Yes, I do believe this is a good transmission. Compact and also has bearings. I own 4 of them so far. I will have 4 projects when parts arrive, mine are back ordered also.

comes with bearings... very good indeed.:mrgreen: compact also good.. I can see many wk builds in the future.. for the price and the great looking axles you cant go wrong"thumbsup"

yeah I was surprised to see my money gone so quick, I figured at least 1-2 weeks, only waited 3 days

What spur sizes come with the tranny? or can you use other spurs in it's place.

If I did my math correct it will have a 1.87:1 internal gear reduction.

So if you have say a 80t spur and a 12t pinion (6.67:1), you should end up with a 12.39:1 total gear reduction.

**Compair it to a XXX or stealth they average like a 2.3:1 internal gear reduction. When used with a, lets say 88t spur & 12t pinon (7.3:1) you will have a total gear reduction of 16.79:1 gear reduction.**

By the looks of the tranny you should be able to fit a larger spur and try to find a 10 or 8 t pinion to get more torque out of the tranny?


I'm just curious cause I don't have one (yet) and want to know more about the set up. When I get one, I plan on using the tranny so I'd like to do my homework before hand.

thanks

:shock: how do you figue that out:?:,iam an idiot at math and gear stuff:?.

I put a 1/4 spacer under the transmission (tranny mounted on it's side not verticle, motor rotated 90 degrees) and use a 32 pitch 72 tooth spur gear and I have several pinion gears ranging from 6 to 9 tooth. I also have ran a 48 pitch 93 tooth with a 12 tooth pinion gear. So in my opinion there are several ways to modify the final gear ratio. Which gives everyone their own personal choice as to what they want to do. I will however be buying one of the new R2 transmissions when it is released later this month. Just to see how it works. They are good transmissions also, so I have been told. With the out drive adaptors that are available, changing from 5mm to 6mm seems to make using all types of trannies easy to use with the Wheely King axles. I would say it's a personal choice on what you do. Pedes, WKs, R2s, or whatever.

I think standard spur gear is 48 pitch 87 tooth!

Couple of comments:
Natedog - Yea, it's not really slipping easy, actually, I'm trashing it pretty hard. Read on.

Gearing? I'm running a 93 tooth spur (had to leave the cover off) and a 12 tooth pinion. Still running the stock motor with that gearing, and it seems to have gobs of torque to put down - I can easily dig both back wheels into the ground spinning them while trying to force the truck up and over something that it wouldn't even blink at if the front axle had guts. BTW, top speed geared like that is just faster than you can walk, still using stock tires.

That is the hard part! Stiff spring! I run my motor clocked 90 degrees and a 96/15 combo with a 65t lathe. I couldnt be happier with this setup!

Well I didn't know for a while then I had to learn and a couple guys on here helped me out. Then I spoke to a place that makes gears and he filled in the blanks.

I don't remember at the moment (on the tip of my tongue) what the gear set up is called ( I think complex or something??) but we have to figure in two different gear ratios for our trannies.

But basically take the large gear and divide it by the smallest gear, doesn't matter how many are in the gears line. 2,3, 10 what ever.

In this case the larger gear is 28t and the smaller gear is 15t (doesn't matter what the middle gear is) 28 divided by 15=1.86666666 (1.87:1 gear ratio)

Then you take your second set of gears. In our case it would be the spur and pinion gear. we'll use a 90t and 8t pinion 90 div. 8t = 11.25 (11.25:1)

Now to get your total gear reduction for the tranny you multiply the 2 togeather.
1.87X11.25=21.0375 or 21.04 total gear reduction.

So like JIA's dad explained that he can get whatever gear reduction he wanted to by changing the Spur and Pinion. Larger Spur and Smaller Pinion = MORE TORQUE less speed.

But in the case of some of the trannies you are limited to your spur size because your output shafts would get in the way and the pinion can also be effected because the motor plate won't let you get close enough for a good mesh on the gears because of things getting in the way or won't adjust that far in...

Hope that helps and answered your question.?


JIA's DAD thanks for the run down it helps me out a bunch.

I am still running the stock 21t pinion & 90t spur gear with a b&b 55t motor, locked diff & stock tires, it stripped the pinion gear before it even thought about starting to slip. I am still 2wd (waitin on hpi to get their head outta thier arse). the rig was in a bind on more than one occasion & after about 10 attempts in a row, it finally stripped the screw outta the motor mount causing the motor to shift & the motor & gear mesh was mis-aligned causing the strippage. easy fix, bigger screw & dremel the motor mount plate. (motor itself does not have alot of adjustability-2 mounting holes only) they say you get what you pay for....... 2 motors for $20...... but other than that it has been a good motor.

DOUBLE J

Thanks I hope this helps everyone. Good info for all thanks for your input"thumbsup"

OK, FIXED IT pics are back

MORE INFO As for the clicking in the Wheely King tranny. After running the WK and having this clicking becoming a total problem and loosing power on climbs I finally decided to tear into the spring assembly/center gears of the tranny. The spring presses against a gear/plate which in turn meshes against the outer gear of the assembly. Making what I would call pressure plates out of the gear assembly. The gears when in a serious bind slip and the bumps/teeth ride over one another causing the clicking noise. Not doing any real damage. But over time the bumps/teeth have started to wear down. So the assembly slips easier and easier with less resistance. My solution was replace them as I have others. Another solution may be to glue them together? But what would be the next weakest link in the chain? NOTE I do not/DO NOT RECOMEND tearing this assembly apart for ROOKIES. Reassembly is hard!!!!!