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04-10-2007, 07:55 PM
| #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
|  Lots of WK stuff... First question - has anyone using the stock chasis made a skid plate for the tranny yet? I was a little concerned by some of the nicks and dings I was seeing on the bottom of mine, and figured it might be a good idea. I've got details on it, and links to pictures over here: http://cotharyus.net Next issue - electronics. Has anyone else had problems with the stock electronics over heating? In particular, my ESC seems to shut down at least twice over course of a 3600 mah pack. And no, there's nothing binding etc. Trust me, I checked. I've never had an ESC overheat before, but then this is my first crawler too - I was wondering if the lower speeds and reduced air flow had anything to do with it, or if it was just a crappy ESC. I'm looking at the holmes revolver/mamba 25 combo as a replacement - any comments on the possibility of overheating that with sub-Cs? Finally, I'm looking for advice on a long term idea. I'm trying to get a design together for a tuber based on the WK drive line, and wanted to work on eliminating as much torque twist as possible. I also want to lay the tranny over on it's side to get the motor out of the stratusphere - to reduce torque twist, do I want to kick the bottom of the tranny to the left (towards the front wheel the lifts) or to the right (away from the front wheel that lifts)? I would think to the left, but I've been wrong before. I could be so wrong that doing either would make it worse. Talk to me about it. |
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04-10-2007, 08:09 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: ****, SL,UT
Posts: 1,610
| i've made a little skid for the bottom out of a peice of aluminun baking pans (like what you cook lasana in) its light and trick  |
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04-10-2007, 09:17 PM
| #3 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Whitecourt
Posts: 89
| Before I modded my WK too much, I found that the stock speed control would get really hot if you tried to go slow, but if you pinned it and thrashed on it, it would stay cool. I think lower gearing would help keep it cooler. |
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04-10-2007, 11:12 PM
| #4 |
| Tech Addict   Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: BFE, NV
Posts: 1,176
| The ESC in mine has held up now for quite a while despite two submersions in my pond! I find it to be a really smooth speedo for a RTR. Never overheated |
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04-11-2007, 09:19 AM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 154
| I agree, gearing down makes a huge difference in keeping the ESC, motor, and battery cooler, as well as longer run times.... Trying to run it really slow with stock setup is what's causing the heat. I'm running a GD-600 on mine, and I can run it pack after pack without anything getting hot. |
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04-11-2007, 12:08 PM
| #6 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
| Regarding gearing and the ESC heat problems - I'm running a 93 tooth spur and a 12 tooth pinion. Wide open this thing barely goes faster than a walk. |
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04-11-2007, 12:16 PM
| #7 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: CA
Posts: 2,138
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04-12-2007, 07:47 PM
| #8 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 638
| I made this 1/4" Alum Skid Plate. It also added 2 inches to my wheel base. Also added weight to the lower middle of rig. I have been bashing this and nothing broke so far. Still waiting on the diff case and axle drive shafts to convert to 4x4. Tower says early MAY now I don't get it. How can you have tons of parts to release a 4x4 version. But no seperate parts to sell!!!  Any way this Skid Plate allowed me to use all stock links.http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...125YA-6020.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...125YA-6023.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...125YA-6018.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...125YA-6016.jpg |
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04-12-2007, 07:48 PM
| #9 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: norfolk
Posts: 638
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04-12-2007, 08:06 PM
| #10 |
| Throwing Grenades   Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Posts: 16,250
| Getting the gearing changed is must if you want to get the motor clocked over to the side.  I provide people the pattern for this template if you would like to make your own. You can read alot more about it in the design thread. Wheely King Clocked Motor Plate Template Shoot me an e-mail if you would like the template. There is also a servo mount template available.  The thread for it is here: Free WK servo mount templates Hope that helps you out! Josh |
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04-14-2007, 03:41 PM
| #11 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
| So given the overheating problems I've had aren't going away just yet, and I'm looking at getting *something* from holmeshobbies in terms of a motor/esc combo, what would everyone recommend. Keep in mind, I'd like the ESC to be waterproof, which I think means the Mamba 25 or Max will work. Which leaves the question, what motor for something that will likely end up being a heavy (over built) 2.2 rig? |
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04-15-2007, 05:28 PM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
| Ok, finished up Josh's axle mounted servo bracket and took some pictures. So that I'm not in violation of any rules or anything, and since I hate photobucket with a passion, you'll just have to go here: http://cotharyus.net/news.php?item.8.3 |
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05-08-2007, 08:27 PM
| #13 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
| Well, I got my diff cases in finally, which gave me all the parts I needed to get things into 4wd on the WK. I opted to use the heavy duty final gear set for the diff, and took advantage of having everything torn apart (and having two new sets of drill bits) to drill the 5th hole in Harley's on-axle servo mount (which should make JAI's Dad very happy to hear!) as well as replace all the plastic drag links and axle braces with metal - although I'm still looking for something to cover all those exposed threads with. I don't have any pictures yet, but as usual a write up with a few details is on my website (see my signature) and there will be pictures at some point soon. |
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05-09-2007, 05:12 PM
| #14 |
| NIDRCRC.com Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Rathdrum, ID USA
Posts: 564
| cotharyus, Here is a simple plate just to cover the bottom of the trans... |
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05-09-2007, 09:03 PM
| #15 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
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05-10-2007, 08:10 PM
| #16 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northern PA where the rocks grow wild
Posts: 386
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05-10-2007, 08:51 PM
| #17 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
| Yea, I know it's mostly suspension set up - but there's a little leverage figured in there too - looks like it's going to be a trial and error thing. Knowing more, more error than trial. |
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05-10-2007, 11:26 PM
| #18 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: We-Go, Chi-Town, Ill
Posts: 1,555
| Heres the lexan (.030 I think) that I made for mine and used the holes in the LCA chassis end mount to mount it with button head screws  Anybody else consider making LCA bracket skid for the axles and maybe a diff skid? |
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05-12-2007, 08:13 PM
| #19 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
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09-04-2007, 01:16 PM
| #20 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sacramento
Posts: 338
| As for the ESC overheating problems, I had the same problem. I regeared (96/15) and it STILL over heated (I was also using a 7 cell 1900mAh battery). Got a 55T motor and it hasn't overheated since!!! The 55T motor also give you way more low end torque for crawlin'! You can't beat an Integy 55T for $20 Best mod so far... |
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