Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Heritage Crawlers > HPI Wheely King
Loading

Notices

Thread: So you want to crawl?

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-15-2007, 11:16 AM   #1
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lorain
Posts: 598
Default So you want to crawl?

Making a tutorial on howto turn a stock wheelyking into a 12.5 wheelbase crawling machine.
Parts needed.
Traxxas #5139. 118mm. (For lowers) (2)
Traxxas #5138. 102mm. (For Uppers) (2)
Tamiya #9804179 Upper/lower suspension stays (1)
Traxxas #4951x Halfshafts (1)
Integy Lathe motor. (Personal choice. I prefer the 55t)
Jb weld (To lock the diffs and internal slipper in the trans.)

Start by disasembling the stock Suspension. Upper link, Lower link's, and shocks. (No pics, self explainitory)

Now that you have the axle's and chassis seprate, it's time to get started.

I switched the axles on my rig so the battery would be up front, but thats optional.

Start with the rear axle. Mount your suspension stay onto the stock 3-link mount like so.





No your going to have to rotate the stock lower link mount 1/4 turn up as seen below.



Mount your Upper links to the suspension stay on top of the axle. (#5138 )



Mount your lower links to the stock lower suspension mounts on the bottom (after they became turned)



Mount your shocks above the lower link's (See above)
Take your stock driveshafts off the axle, and ake your longer T-maxx driveshafts and mount them to the stock yokes.



Then mount your links to the stock link locations.



The fronts going to be a little tricky if you switched axles. You can flip the stock steering to the left side of the chassis by removing the trans, but thats a little complicated. I just made up a bracket to mount the servo on the axle. Steering is much better now.




For the front links just repeat what you did to the rear.
Locking the diffs is another tut. So stay tuned.
I cut up the stock body for a crawler body until my Jeep's painted.
Now go out and enjoy it.




This whole conversion's cost me 65.75. If you want a new body, add that to the price. This price also includes a motor. So pick up one of the new integy crawlers. I've ran both the Lathe and now the crawler, and the crawler offers better performance.

Last edited by Grizzly4x4; 06-15-2007 at 11:38 AM.
Terminator13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 06-15-2007, 12:01 PM   #2
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: St. John's
Posts: 548
Default

In your third and fourth pictures you could cut small pieces of brakeline or some other similar tubing as spacers so that you can really tighten up the bolts. It worked great for me. Hope you don't mind the suggestion.

Sean
SeanD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2007, 12:35 PM   #3
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lorain
Posts: 598
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanD View Post
In your third and fourth pictures you could cut small pieces of brakeline or some other similar tubing as spacers so that you can really tighten up the bolts. It worked great for me. Hope you don't mind the suggestion.

Sean
Yea, No problem. Any sugestions are welcome.
Terminator13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2007, 01:09 PM   #4
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: South Jersey (Cherry Hill area)
Posts: 240
Default

I used nylon spacers from lowes... my 2¢
HauntFreaks.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2007, 03:04 AM   #5
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Juneau, AK
Posts: 153
Default

Is there another part I can use for the Tamiya #9804179 they seem to be out of stock everywhere.
wshipley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2007, 08:06 AM   #6
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lorain
Posts: 598
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wshipley View Post
Is there another part I can use for the Tamiya #9804179 they seem to be out of stock everywhere.
You can fab up a peice of alluminum C channel. Just drill some holes.
Terminator13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2007, 01:58 PM   #7
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Juneau, AK
Posts: 153
Default

What did you use to upgrade the steering linkage when you added the axle mounted servo?

Last edited by wshipley; 06-21-2007 at 05:43 PM.
wshipley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2007, 03:44 PM   #8
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Japan
Posts: 385
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wshipley View Post
Is there another part I can use for the Tamiya #9804179 they seem to be out of stock everywhere.
Tamiya should have them back in stock in about 2 weeks
genki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 09:56 AM   #9
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Frisco
Posts: 3
Default

What does the WB come out to on this? Also, any suggestions on the steering?

Thanks
mstg46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2007, 01:27 PM   #10
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Beaver Falls
Posts: 1,166
Default

Did you have to change the gearing or pinion gear with your new motor? Or ddi you use the stock pinion/gears?
muddeprived is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2007, 08:26 AM   #11
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lorain
Posts: 598
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wshipley View Post
What did you use to upgrade the steering linkage when you added the axle mounted servo?
Traxxas rod end, 4-40 threaded rod, and KS Stainless steel tube (expensive, but very strong. I've bent a brake tubing steering sleeve, but not a KS tube.) I used the stock steering rod from the servo to the knuckle. Perfect length. Just cover it w/ tubing, change rod ends, and your good.

This is brings the wheelbase to 12.5in.

At first I didnt change the gearing and it worked fine. My spur stripped under load (Take it off and flex it a bit), so I changed the Gearing to TLT-1 90t spur, and 16t pinion.
Terminator13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2007, 08:49 PM   #12
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: LA
Posts: 35
Default

Thanks for the instructions and pics.
just_now is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2007, 04:31 PM   #13
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lorain
Posts: 598
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by just_now View Post
Thanks for the instructions and pics.
No problem.



In a week or so, my 4-link kit for the stock chassis will be up for sale so keep your eyes open.
Terminator13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2007, 01:37 PM   #14
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: in rc crawler land
Posts: 141
Default

this is an outstanding guide
custumrig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2007, 08:31 PM   #15
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lumberton
Posts: 463
Default

Yeah it is a great guide and build.
countryboy4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2008, 09:22 PM   #16
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: sebastian
Posts: 83
Default

how does that servo work for you????
ericbrierton is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com