RCCrawler Forums

Nerve · 09-18-2007, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KanadianKrawler

I went back to Home Depot today and spoke to a guy in the hardware dept. Turns out the Canadian stores often carry different stock than the US outlets, and they don't have the 6-32 all thread rod here.
After a bunch of questions and some searching I found the all thread at a place called SB Simpson, so if any fellow Canadians are having difficulty sourcing the 6-32 all thread rod, you now know one place that stocks it

Just noticed your post,

If Home Depot doesnt stock them, what about Home Hardware, Tim-Br Mart? I'm surprised that Canadian Tire wouldn't stock that either. I know of a privately owned hardware store near to my house that I may have to investigate.

thanks for the info however, saves me a trip to H.D ;)

The Hawaiian · 09-18-2007, 08:44 PM

Just if anyone needed. I found all I needed at ACE Hardware.

duleonar · 09-19-2007, 12:48 PM

I went a little different route and used carbon fiber hunting arrows. They are way stronger and look better. The inserts that come with the arrows are tapped at 8-32, so you just have to drill out the hyme joints/rod ends. Then cut arrows to length. I used the same thing for my steering, but haven't finished it just yet here's a pic of the front.

Rock Concepts · 09-23-2007, 07:10 PM

That looks really awsome!!!!!!!

sloppy · 09-23-2007, 07:44 PM

those arrows tend to splinter when you bash them on rocks.
and the glass can really hurts your fingers.
i found a little super glue arond the ends help but they still crack after awhile.

imprtcrx · 09-30-2007, 01:31 AM

I saw some people talking about the prices that hpi posted which, i think is very cheap for a conversion kit of stage 1 to a crawler.. So i went forward and got a wk from lhs. Brought it home and today i did the conversion, so i have a 12.5" wheelbase, still running in 2wd, and my conversion consists of this: The piece where your lower links and your shocks mount, i turned that 1/4 of a turn, so where your lowers use to mount is now facing the chassis, drilled a new whole above the lower link hole and was able to use original pins and e-clips for shocks and lower links. I went with Traxxas Revo P3 112mm pushrods: $10.00/2 or $20.00/4 from lhs. I used 6-32 all thread for my steering link: 2.00 from home depot. I used 4-40 to connect my rear to my original upper link: 2.00 from lowes. And i used 2 aluminum spacers just like the tubing used by hpi for the space between rear and upper links: .56/2 at lowes. So that is crawler on a budget, putting my build costs at $24.56 for a stretched Wk.. Thanks

brewsome · 10-02-2007, 07:55 PM

Exellent idea. Carbon arrows are tough as hell. They look good to. I think I will have to borrow your idea. Awesome. Thanks

Brip · 10-03-2007, 09:33 AM

I just finished my WK and based it on HPI's Stage 1 article and the 5 step program found in this forum. I flipped the chassis and built custom control arms with Du Bro heim joints and aluminum tubing. The HPI article references driveshafts that are expensive. The 5 step article uses Traxxas 4951X. I bought them at my LHS for $8 total. They work great! I am using a slightly cut Traxxas male shaft with the stock female in the front and they mesh fine. In the rear I am running the Traxxas shafts uncut. My truck is more like a 70/30 or so because I decided not to cut the rear shafts. I have barely tested it yet but so far it's climbing things I never thought possible.

normldan · 10-13-2007, 12:50 PM

good write up

birdie · 10-15-2007, 02:26 AM

How far away is stage 2? I am very interested in this

looks very good

WKer84 · 10-15-2007, 04:45 AM

where are you guys mounting your shocks on top? are you making a mount, i don't see any other way. HELP?:-(

hpi123 · 10-27-2007, 06:21 AM

For normal driving in a track I built, would the Wheely king with the extended chassis flip over less?

Brip · 11-02-2007, 01:29 PM

Yes.

Valtor001 · 11-02-2007, 03:39 PM

Ok I'm new to Crawlers but I have alot of the parts for the Linkages but I'm not sure what I should use Brakeline or my old Arrows because I have 6/32 & 8/32 AT. I think I should use the 8/32 but not sure and it'll be my first Crawler so it's bound to go through hell and I want it to be strong plus I'm not sure what would be the best Rod Ends to use so any advise would be great and sorry if this is a noob question but I gotta start some where thanks.

mikenredding · 11-03-2007, 04:39 PM

Has HPI posted the stage 2 build yet?

Jusstinno · 11-13-2007, 06:11 PM

6915 15t Pinion (x1)

i couldnt find the part# and im not sure which 15t pinion. could someone please direct me a link to the 15pinion in ultimate hobbies?

THanks

newpinesap · 11-17-2007, 11:55 AM

well i just went onto tower hobbies and I bought the robinson 15t pinion which is a hell of a lot cheaper. It works for a integy motor so i'm pretty sure that it will work for the stock motor too. I found out that ultimate hobbies carries the part, but it's not the robinson brand and it costs only $3.50 here's the link http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar...d=RRP1015!1001

newpinesap · 11-17-2007, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Valtor001

Ok I'm new to Crawlers but I have alot of the parts for the Linkages but I'm not sure what I should use Brakeline or my old Arrows because I have 6/32 & 8/32 AT. I think I should use the 8/32 but not sure and it'll be my first Crawler so it's bound to go through hell and I want it to be strong plus I'm not sure what would be the best Rod Ends to use so any advise would be great and sorry if this is a noob question but I gotta start some where thanks.

just use revo tie rods, because you can get them off ebay for about $10 and they have the right ball ends and you don't need to lenthen them or shorten them. I do have to warn you that the rods are a little bigger than they are supposed to be in the build, but since they are bigger you do no need to cut the long traxxas shafts which is much easier. If you want I built my crawler like this and i can send you some pictures if you want.

newpinesap · 11-17-2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WKer84

where are you guys mounting your shocks on top? are you making a mount, i don't see any other way. HELP?:-(

what they are doing is mounting the shocks on the side. If you need any more pictures just tell me.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...p/P1050909.jpg
The silver squares in the picture are just lead weights that I added for the front wheels to be heavier

newpinesap · 11-17-2007, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenredding

Has HPI posted the stage 2 build yet?

No but it looks like all that they are going to do is put some moab 2.2's on it and I'm guessing add a motor with more turns.

09-30-2007, 01:31 AM	#86
imprtcrx Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Minersville Posts: 18	budget I saw some people talking about the prices that hpi posted which, i think is very cheap for a conversion kit of stage 1 to a crawler.. So i went forward and got a wk from lhs. Brought it home and today i did the conversion, so i have a 12.5" wheelbase, still running in 2wd, and my conversion consists of this: The piece where your lower links and your shocks mount, i turned that 1/4 of a turn, so where your lowers use to mount is now facing the chassis, drilled a new whole above the lower link hole and was able to use original pins and e-clips for shocks and lower links. I went with Traxxas Revo P3 112mm pushrods: $10.00/2 or $20.00/4 from lhs. I used 6-32 all thread for my steering link: 2.00 from home depot. I used 4-40 to connect my rear to my original upper link: 2.00 from lowes. And i used 2 aluminum spacers just like the tubing used by hpi for the space between rear and upper links: .56/2 at lowes. So that is crawler on a budget, putting my build costs at $24.56 for a stretched Wk.. Thanks

10-03-2007, 09:33 AM	#88
Brip Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NY Posts: 30	WK Driveshafts I just finished my WK and based it on HPI's Stage 1 article and the 5 step program found in this forum. I flipped the chassis and built custom control arms with Du Bro heim joints and aluminum tubing. The HPI article references driveshafts that are expensive. The 5 step article uses Traxxas 4951X. I bought them at my LHS for $8 total. They work great! I am using a slightly cut Traxxas male shaft with the stock female in the front and they mesh fine. In the rear I am running the Traxxas shafts uncut. My truck is more like a 70/30 or so because I decided not to cut the rear shafts. I have barely tested it yet but so far it's climbing things I never thought possible.

10-27-2007, 06:21 AM	#92
hpi123 Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: somewhere Posts: 54	Handling For normal driving in a track I built, would the Wheely king with the extended chassis flip over less?

09-18-2007, 08:44 PM	#82
The Hawaiian Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lady Lake, Fl. Posts: 3	Just if anyone needed. I found all I needed at ACE Hardware.

09-19-2007, 12:48 PM	#83
duleonar Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 96	I went a little different route and used carbon fiber hunting arrows. They are way stronger and look better. The inserts that come with the arrows are tapped at 8-32, so you just have to drill out the hyme joints/rod ends. Then cut arrows to length. I used the same thing for my steering, but haven't finished it just yet here's a pic of the front.

09-23-2007, 07:10 PM	#84
Rock Concepts Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2007 Location: Victorville Posts: 176	That looks really awsome!!!!!!!

09-23-2007, 07:44 PM	#85
sloppy I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: akron Posts: 4,054	those arrows tend to splinter when you bash them on rocks. and the glass can really hurts your fingers. i found a little super glue arond the ends help but they still crack after awhile.

10-02-2007, 07:55 PM	#87
brewsome Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Gillette Posts: 1	Exellent idea. Carbon arrows are tough as hell. They look good to. I think I will have to borrow your idea. Awesome. Thanks

10-13-2007, 12:50 PM	#89
normldan Newbie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Burbank Posts: 6	good write up

10-15-2007, 02:26 AM	#90
birdie Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bundaberg, QLD, Australia Posts: 57	How far away is stage 2? I am very interested in this looks very good

10-15-2007, 04:45 AM	#91
WKer84 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: somewhere Posts: 31	where are you guys mounting your shocks on top? are you making a mount, i don't see any other way. HELP?:-(

11-02-2007, 01:29 PM	#93
Brip Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NY Posts: 30	Yes.

11-02-2007, 03:39 PM	#94
Valtor001 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Alvin Posts: 9	Ok I'm new to Crawlers but I have alot of the parts for the Linkages but I'm not sure what I should use Brakeline or my old Arrows because I have 6/32 & 8/32 AT. I think I should use the 8/32 but not sure and it'll be my first Crawler so it's bound to go through hell and I want it to be strong plus I'm not sure what would be the best Rod Ends to use so any advise would be great and sorry if this is a noob question but I gotta start some where thanks.

Sponsored Links

11-03-2007, 04:39 PM	#95
mikenredding Newbie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: redding Posts: 35	Has HPI posted the stage 2 build yet?

11-13-2007, 06:11 PM	#96
Jusstinno Newbie Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 37	6915 15t Pinion (x1) i couldnt find the part# and im not sure which 15t pinion. could someone please direct me a link to the 15pinion in ultimate hobbies? THanks

11-17-2007, 11:55 AM	#97
newpinesap Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: fort collins Posts: 76	well i just went onto tower hobbies and I bought the robinson 15t pinion which is a hell of a lot cheaper. It works for a integy motor so i'm pretty sure that it will work for the stock motor too. I found out that ultimate hobbies carries the part, but it's not the robinson brand and it costs only $3.50 here's the link http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar...d=RRP1015!1001

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Thread: HPI converts a WK to a crawler