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Old 07-22-2007, 08:20 PM   #1
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Default Wheels keep falling off???

Just rapped up stage 1 of my WK crawler. Stock chassis, stretched the wheelbase out to 12.25 inches, Mounted a Hitec 645M servo over the front axle (thanks to the templates found on this site!). I also set up the rear axle as the front and locked out the front axle and switched the motor wires to get the battery "in front" (both axles JB welded). Gearing is 96/14 on the stock motor. Running Moabs and Mashers on narrowed Stampede wheels.

Anyway, here's the delima. While testing it on the "rocks" on the bank of the river behind my house, I wouls have a wheel fall off. Usually this occurred after one wheel was stock under a rock ledge, then made it over. As soon as it would clear the obstacle the wheel would fall off. I know this has to do with running the truck "backwards" but is there a simple fix, or will I have to swap the axles around so that the original front axle is now up front again? And yes I have searched, just couldn't find anything. Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:28 PM   #2
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just buy some new wheel nuts
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:28 PM   #3
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its not the axles. You probably arent getting enough threads in the nut. Make sure the hex is seated correctly. You may have to grind off that lil round lip off of them.


I just told a guy named Dick Furious he wasnt penetrating enough! NICE!
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:30 PM   #4
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thats funny

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Originally Posted by renoirbud View Post
just buy some new wheel nuts
or get some locktight
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Old 07-23-2007, 04:02 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cjkranwinkle@cableone.net View Post
thats funny


or get some locktight
iam with him... blue locktite... you can get in a glue stick form at yer LHS... works well...
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Old 07-23-2007, 07:32 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by SACCO View Post
its not the axles. You probably arent getting enough threads in the nut. Make sure the hex is seated correctly. You may have to grind off that lil round lip off of them.
Both sets of my wheels are clearance in the back pretty well, including the hexes on the wheels. But I will double check. But I'm pretty sure that the hexes fully seat into the wheels.

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I just told a guy named Dick Furious he wasnt penetrating enough! NICE!
Hahaha!
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Old 07-23-2007, 07:36 AM   #7
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i got a good quote out of that now...
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:37 AM   #8
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If you are using stampede rears I think that is part of the problem. Are you using fronts or rears?
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:43 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by SACCO View Post
If you are using stampede rears I think that is part of the problem. Are you using fronts or rears?
Not 100% sure, but I think they are fronts. Is there an easy way to tell?
EDIT:
Well I just checked all 8 wheels, and they all have a raised "F" on one of the spokes on the inside of each wheel. So I'm pretty sure they are fronts. Guess I'll try some Loctite!

Last edited by Dick Furious; 07-23-2007 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:38 PM   #10
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i had same problem with same setup! i now use nyloc nuts without flanges. the stock wk nuts have flanges wich make it to long for pede wheels.. the nylon in the nut wasn't getting enough thread to work propery.. havent had one come loose since..

also shave the outer lip off the plastic wk hex. or drill the rims so it sits in flush..
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:18 AM   #11
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i had same problem with same setup! i now use nyloc nuts without flanges. the stock wk nuts have flanges wich make it to long for pede wheels.. the nylon in the nut wasn't getting enough thread to work propery.. havent had one come loose since..

also shave the outer lip off the plastic wk hex. or drill the rims so it sits in flush..
I like this option a little more than the loctite, I'll give it a try tonight!
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:35 PM   #12
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also shave the outer lip off the plastic wk hex. or drill the rims so it sits in flush..
UPDATE:
Just incase someone else has the same issue, the lip on the outside of the hexes caused the problem. ground them down so they're flat now and no more problems.
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:59 PM   #13
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Wheels falling off / wheel nuts coming loose is pretty much a problem in all RC vehicles with a locked axle and only one nut holding on each wheel. This is because one side works to tighten itself, and the other works to loosen itself. Thats why 1:1 cars have 5 to 10 bolts on each wheel, so the nuts cant work themselfs loose. But on our RC vehicles, only having one nut on each wheel is the problem. Basicaly, to prevent this, you will want to either use a lighter gripping thread lock, a lock washer, a really tightend wheel nut, or a locking nut (the kind with plastic on them). On my Super Clod, I have to tighten the wheels down really tight, but being careful not to strip the bolts, because it always trys to loosen the bolts. So basically, you are experiencing a common problem with common and easy fixes. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-25-2007, 04:05 PM   #14
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I just told a guy named Dick Furious he wasnt penetrating enough! NICE!

Signature found!
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Old 07-25-2007, 07:21 PM   #15
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Signature found!
Sorry I beat you to it. I figured it was appropriate since it was about me.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:28 AM   #16
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Sorry I beat you to it. I figured it was appropriate since it was about me.

Damn!
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:24 PM   #17
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If you are using the stampede wheel nuts make sure you have the black ones, because on the xl-5 pede the front wheels are obviously different from the rears and so are the wheel nuts. The front (gray wheel nuts) on the pede are thicker
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Old 07-27-2007, 12:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Furious View Post
UPDATE:
Just incase someone else has the same issue, the lip on the outside of the hexes caused the problem. ground them down so they're flat now and no more problems.
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Originally Posted by scaryclownguy View Post
If you are using the stampede wheel nuts make sure you have the black ones, because on the xl-5 pede the front wheels are obviously different from the rears and so are the wheel nuts. The front (gray wheel nuts) on the pede are thicker

I just got a set of replacement Traxxas rear nuts for when I'm using my N-Rusty/Pede/Sport 5-spoke Torque Thrust copys on mine, that way I can still use the OE wheels and have that centering ring still in place.
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