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Old 07-31-2007, 09:23 PM   #1
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Default Hot As Hell!!!!!

Ok so I went back into the pit in my back yard today to test the new wheels o got today (more of an excuse than anything) and after about 30 minutes of run time i noticed steam/smoke coming up from the body of my WK. By the time i got to it the smoke/steam was gone but I did smell some HOT electronics. I pulled the cover off the truck and the motor was so hot i could only touch it for a new seconds. i pulled the truck upstairs and cooled it off but before i did i touched the connector and it is was also hot as HELL along with the wires leading up to the motor.

I am running a 3300 NiMh battery but from what i have read on the forums this shouldnt matter.

Also my mods are nothing electrical, just locking diffs, bead lockers, and battery tray cut along with a relocation of the ESC.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. THANKS
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:28 PM   #2
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need to change the gearing to help that esc as much as possible.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:33 PM   #3
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like a 96/15 setup? I have it on order.

this along will heat everything up THAT much? I never had this problem with the stock 1500 NiCd battery
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:46 PM   #4
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the extra run time outta your larger pack is letting it get hotter.

the gears will help but not eliminate it.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:52 PM   #5
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get a new motor id recomend a 35t or 55t motor
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:57 PM   #6
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because i am running a bigger battery would it be better to get a certain ESC rather than any other brand?
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:17 PM   #7
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The WK manual, p. 24, recommends using higher capacity NI-MH batteries for longer run times. You might check your warranty if there's a problem. But your mods may void it.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:22 PM   #8
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I would suggest buying a 55 turn motor and slow it down some. The lower turn stock motor draws more current under a load. Therefore more heat. The 55 would slow you down but would crawl better.
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fungible View Post
The WK manual, p. 24, recommends using higher capacity NI-MH batteries for longer run times. You might check your warranty if there's a problem. But your mods may void it.
what mods....?
I have no mods....
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIA's Dad View Post
I would suggest buying a 55 turn motor and slow it down some. The lower turn stock motor draws more current under a load. Therefore more heat. The 55 would slow you down but would crawl better.
i was looking at the Crawlmaster Mamba Max combo from RCP. but htey are not in stock.

i guess i will just add a mini fan and keep my run times down a little. maybe 20 minute runs with a 5 minute cool down period in between.

THANKS
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:05 AM   #11
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What kind of connectors are you using? I never really thought it made THAT much of a difference until about a month ago. I was running my EMaxx real hard for about 15 mins - stock motors and gearing - using 2 3000 mAh NiMH batteries. The factory Tamiya plugs actually melted together. I changed over to Deans - been meaning to do this for over a year but never took the time - what a difference - not only is there NO heat but I'm getting longer run times and much better performance. On my pede same thing - get glitching and hot plugs and motor AND esc - switched to the Deans and all is well.
I don't know if this applies to your situation but it's a cheap mod that should be done no matter what motor/gear/battery/esc combo you're running.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:55 AM   #12
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ya thats what I was gonna suggest. Tamiya plugs have a lot of resistance and build up a lot of heat, thats one of the first things I would change. You can also try a motor heat sink if you can find on that fits.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:46 PM   #13
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I had this same problem but it was because I had a 4200 mah battery and the esc couldnt handle it. My mototr would get so hot that it would melt the electrical tape around it. so i had to hold an ice cube on it for a while. I dont know what the problem with yours would be but my friend had a stock wk and it would overheat the esc and shut itself off after only 10-15 minutes of crawling.THat might be the problem.
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:06 PM   #14
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well i am going to order a new esc and motor when i get back from vacation and i will get the deans today when i go out. hopefully its just the connectors because i am bringing this to the north GA mountains and i wanted to hit some trails behind the cabin all next week. if not i will just have to wait until the new motor comes in.

THANKS

and i will post my results asap
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:57 PM   #15
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so i didnt get to get the connectors today...but...i did run a complete 4200 nimh battery for a little over an hour straight without the body on and the motor didnt even really get that hot. I may cut the window out of the WK body to get some more air flow to the motor for now. i think the body acts more like an insulator and dosent allow the engine to cool off as well as it needs to, especially with the nimh batteries.

what do yall think? Deans connectors, a little computer fan added to keep a constant breeze on the esc and motor and a window cutout? think this would allow my WK to run a complete 3300 and 4200 nimh with the body on it?
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