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Old 10-06-2007, 10:09 PM   #1
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Default Axle breakage - update?

Shortly after the WK came on the market, people were expressing concerns over broken front axles - especially after locking the diffs. I've noticed that lately noone is mentioning this problem. Am I to assume that noone is breaking axles anymore? I know I broke one while running the stock gears and stock 27t motor which prompted me to make my own axles (which I've been running for months now with no problems eventhough I am running a 55t with 96/15 gears)

These stock axles that broke must've been a bad batch.

Sean
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Old 10-07-2007, 12:19 AM   #2
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got picks of your axels? i would like to see. I have had no problems with my axels and i have also mod them to get more steering.

Last edited by Shoei1; 10-07-2007 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 10-07-2007, 02:56 AM   #3
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My axles and dogbones still break... I broke two dogbones within 5mins of each other, and when one of them broke it took out the cup part on the axle. This was last Saturday, and since then I ordered CVDs for the front, and will stick with the stock axles in the rear for now. So far the CVDs are working very well .

My setup:
-11.1v 2100mah 15C Lipo or 10cell 1100mah NiMh pack (both are mounted to the truck at all times, makes for good runtime)
-brushless outrunner the size of a 540 brushed motor, 730 kv
-no transmission, the spur gear is connected to the center driveshafts
-geared 21/66 (32p) right now, for some REAL SPEED out of a purpose-built rock crawler
-Masher 2Ks on double-narrowed HPI Scorch plastic wheels
-custom chassis (custom everything, for that matter, except the main portions of the front/rear axles)
-Mamba 25 with 3amp switching BEC (I just received a CCBEC to put on there)
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:29 PM   #4
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Yeah, the problem is related to the knuckles turning too far in the C-hubs, which lets the machined down part of the axle slip into the notch in the drive cup, which breaks one or the other, or both. There are still some people breaking them, but I think as people have worked on these trucks more and more, they've locked down some of the flex/play in the steering and the linkage that is supposed to hold the back wheels straight.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:21 PM   #5
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I've only broken one axle shaft the entire time I've had my WK. It was a rear shaft, and I was running Maxx Mashers at the time. This is my comp truck, and the terrain we run is pretty extreme. Granted, I've been in RC for over 20 years, so I've learned better than to just sit there with the throttle pinned when the truck is completely bound. I've found the axle assembly as a whole to be incredibly durable.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotharyus View Post
Yeah, the problem is related to the knuckles turning too far in the C-hubs, which lets the machined down part of the axle slip into the notch in the drive cup, which breaks one or the other, or both.....
You do have the rubber o-rings inside the stub axle drive cup area that limits how far the innner axle slides into the stub axle, correct?
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:14 AM   #7
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Shoei1:

Here's a picture of my axle. It is made out of stainless steel.

Click the image to open in full size.

Sean
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natedog View Post
You do have the rubber o-rings inside the stub axle drive cup area that limits how far the innner axle slides into the stub axle, correct?
Yes. No. Maybe. Doesn't matter. They break mostly for the reason I stated. I had the same problem with HPI's nitro MT years ago.
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:40 AM   #9
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When I first got my WK, I broke a front dogbone within the first hour of running it (all stock, w/ sway bar removed), bashed it into a rock at near full speed. Since I replaced it (ended up just getting OEM replacement), I haven't broken another. Now that I have it set up with a 55T lathe (w/ 15/96 gears), 7 cell battery, extended links (12.5" wb) and new Rock Claws. I haven't broken another axle yet. And I've stuck those tires in some pretty deep holes. I do still have the slipper clutch, though, slips before any damage occurs (that's it's job afterall). It's not fast enough to run "full speed" into anything anymore.

That slipper is getting annoying, so when I get rid of it, I'll definitly go to some stainless axles or CVDs.
my 2 cents
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:24 PM   #10
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I have 2 rigs with WK axles and havent broken one yet. they have pede trannies and i think each has 15-84 gearing on 55t and 65t integy motors. I run 6 cell stick packs all being 3000 Mah. I dont know how you guys break them
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GulaVW69 View Post
I have 2 rigs with WK axles and havent broken one yet. they have pede trannies and i think each has 15-84 gearing on 55t and 65t integy motors. I run 6 cell stick packs all being 3000 Mah. I dont know how you guys break them
Can you say power? Think of a brushless motor that's pushing a WK at 4mph on the rocks with all the torque needed to strip a 32p spur in the blink of an eye if you're not careful. Add a Hitec 5955-TG servo and there's plenty to rip the heads off of those dogbones.
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:18 PM   #12
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Rember that the O-rings are rubber and don't last long at all, pretty much useless. I cut the axle cups down 1/8" to stop the rubbing issue at the turn down. Axles still broke just from torque of the brushless Z3013. So I went to the CVD's, no more problems so far.
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:34 PM   #13
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I have the cvds in the front and stainless straight axles in the rear. I will give you and update when I get more time on them.
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