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| SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 2,296
| I'd like to slap in a lighter battery so I was looking at Lipos. I know someone said the WK ESC can handle a 2s Lipo. The factory battery is a 7.2v 1500mah nicd, so I started looking for a 2s Lipo and found this one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGHE5&P=7 It's 7.4v & 1500 mah. Is the 7.4v alright for the WK esc? If so, how high in volts can I go before I burn it up or is 7.4 about it? I would think it would be fine but ... Oh and would this be the correct cut-off module? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPGM8&P=7 My other question is about the shocks. I'm planning on doing something similar to the HPI stage I build ... but how long can I make this thing before the shocks bind up? It seems like if I push the wheelbase to much the shocks will bind on the top end. Are you relocating your shocks? Last edited by Locked Up; 10-26-2007 at 10:46 PM. |
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| | #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: My House
Posts: 111
| The shock WK ESC should handle 2S just fine, provided you're using a high turm motor like a 55 or 65, at least. Using 2S with a 27 turn or lower could cause issues, as I've seen the stock ESC burn a hole in the case (literally) with high amp 7.2 volts and the stock motor. As for the shocks, you're correct, past a certain wheelbase and you can see binding on the shock cap when they're mounted in the stock position. There are a couple of solutions to combat this. You could make link mounts for the shocks, this would allow you to make the WB whatever you want and still keep the shocks at a reasonable angle. A better idea is to relocate the upper shock mounting position, either with a spacer that will let you mount them near the top of the chassis but turned 90 degrees, or turn 90 degrees with no spacer, but mounted on the lowest rail of the chassis below the original shock mount. I currently have my shocks mounted in holes that I drilled right at the point where the five "tubes" intersect below the stock mounting position. That would make it awfully high if you're running springs but it works like a champ for a droop setup. If you plan to run springs, you would probably be better off using spacers that will allow you to mount them higher up on the chassis, cloer to the stock position. |
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| | #3 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: CA
Posts: 2,135
| Can also mount upper shock end on a 3mm screw with a piece of nitro fuel line slipped over it. The fuel line has some give/flex to it....maybe enough to solve your binding, cheap and easy too. |
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| | #4 |
| SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 2,296
| So if I run something like a 55t Intergy motor with the cut off & battery I referred to I'd be OK? I Assume by high amp you mean a lot more that that battery I linked... Would I be better off going to something like a Novak Crawler ESC ... then I could skip the cutoff module as well, right? |
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| | #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 124
| Cut the mount off of the shock cap and drill a hole in the middle. Pass a screw through and use whatever rod end suits you to finish it up. This will give you an easy 10-15 degrees more swing on the shock. Beware though, if you are still using stock shocks, the caps are prone to skipping threads and bleeding oil all over the place. |
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| | #6 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Fairfield
Posts: 25
| my shock set up is working great.i took off the springs and put mini-t springs in the shock body. i mounted it to the back motor roll cage mount. works great and looks killer... check it out... http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...143#post899143 |
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| | #7 |
| SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 2,296
| Well, I decided to take a slightly different approach... In the rear, I moved the top mount to the same hole as the most inward wheely bar mount with some washers. I also removed the spring spacer. In the front, I moved the top mount down & out to the scond hole from the front and used some balls I had lying around as spacers. I also removed that spacer & cut the front springs. This required me to trim the chassis and part of the servo mount but I have a lot more droop now and it sits a lot better than it did from the factory. All in all it came out great and I have plenty of flex for my crawler/basher... Oh I decided to go ahead and make a webpage for my WK since all my fillsize rigs have one. Obviously not much on there now since I just got it but I still have plenty of things I want to do to it so we'll see how it goes. Pics of what I did with my springs are on there in the WK tech section. http://www.patricksnorton.com Last edited by Locked Up; 10-28-2007 at 09:50 AM. |
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