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Old 12-16-2007, 01:48 PM   #1
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Default WK setup question

ok, now ive bought the WK and have already made a list of parts and upgrades

this is what i got:

BM-17 motor
Mamba Max ESC
HI-TECH steering servo front and rear
Revo links (if they stretch it enough)]
Moabs
a set of beadlocks
and a tube chassis to wrap it up good and tight

some questions i have are:

what length will it be stretched to with the revo links? im lookin for 13-15 inches...i know the 2.2 class is 12.5 but i dont think ill be doin comps.

what size battery should i be going with for good performance? deans? tamiya?

should i be dealing with brushless? or brused motor? i never really understood the difference.

what radio should i get to power what i need? (ESC, 2 Servos, and maybe some lights)

any help would be awesome

when i start the build ill make another thread

hopefully i can have a decent crawler out of the upgrades i want
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:38 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleDave View Post
ok, now ive bought the WK and have already made a list of parts and upgrades

this is what i got:

BM-17 motor
Mamba Max ESC
HI-TECH steering servo front and rear
Revo links (if they stretch it enough)]
Moabs
a set of beadlocks
and a tube chassis to wrap it up good and tight

some questions i have are:

what length will it be stretched to with the revo links? im lookin for 13-15 inches...i know the 2.2 class is 12.5 but i dont think ill be doin comps.

You said you were doing a tube chassis so that would also be a deciding factor.

what size battery should i be going with for good performance? deans? tamiya?

2/3a for ease of use. Lipo or li-ion for light weight and discharge abilitys. Deans.

should i be dealing with brushless? or brused motor? i never really understood the difference.

My money would be going to a colbalt brushed motor from Holmes if I was in the market.

what radio should i get to power what i need? (ESC, 2 Servos, and maybe some lights)

I love my DX3 for being inexpensive, glitch free spektrum, and 3 position 3rd channel.

any help would be awesome

when i start the build ill make another thread

hopefully i can have a decent crawler out of the upgrades i want
...
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:49 PM   #3
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thanks ill look into the cobalt. why are so many people switchin to brushed when the brushless has more torque?
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:34 PM   #4
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I'm told brushless motors tend to be notchy on startup, that they're fairly unpredictable just off throttle. The only brushless motor I have is in my XXX, and I haven't noticed any off throttle weirdness, but I'm not exactly trying to go slow . What I can say for sure, is that a decent lathe motor works great for crawling, and they're cheap. I'm just sticking with what works.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigels_world View Post
...
that motor is kinda big...in size...its great on power but it takes up half of the rig, how long before the brushes on brushed wear out? i think im still leaning towards the bm-17 and just telling the mamba max to calm it down, or just learning the throttle curve.

how long are the revo links?

these are the rims i was talking about earlier.

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/2.2-Mudro...2-p-16484.html

until i can get aluminum ones. are there any servo mounts that can be purchased for the front and/or rear axle? and what is the best mounting spot for the battery to stop torque roll (ANOYING ON UPHILLS!!! :-x)

thanks guys
Dave
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Old 12-17-2007, 04:17 PM   #6
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From what I hear, that BM17 motor is ALOT of motor. Not sure you need that much in a 2.2. You'll be replacing parts before you know it
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Old 12-17-2007, 04:54 PM   #7
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yeah it is, and thats why i like it. a firend of mine has it and he has SLAMMED on the throttle and nothing happened at all. i love the power. it is meant for a 16" or greater, but im just gonna trust this WK with the same amount of durability as his.
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleDave View Post
yeah it is, and thats why i like it. a firend of mine has it and he has SLAMMED on the throttle and nothing happened at all. i love the power. it is meant for a 16" or greater, but im just gonna trust this WK with the same amount of durability as his.
Well, if anything...it'll be a fun ride.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:20 PM   #9
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besides...now yall can watch me break everything and figure out all the weak points of it (if any)

are there any WKs in Louisiana on this board?
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:38 PM   #10
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BTW i for got to ask if there are any stronger hubs for the wheely king? once you lock the axle and your tires still find a way to bind the hubs will begin to rattle and be as if the diff was open. the first time i heard it i hurried up and opened up the case and found that the gears were still welded tight. eventually i figured out it was the hubs. what should i do?
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:31 PM   #11
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I was in Baton Rouge until this past summer.... but I know that doesn't help.

Hubs? You mean the hex nuts that fit into the wheel?

If so, HPI makes some aluminum ones:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...JYM5&search=Go

I have beaten the tar outta mine and they haven't slipped unless my wheel nuts were loose. Some people glue there Hex nuts in but that may only be the folks running the older Axial wheels.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:53 AM   #12
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well for all i know i didnt even check the spline on the axles...that could be a lil difficult to check with those welds...if thats even it. ill check out those hubs.

Last edited by LittleDave; 12-18-2007 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:28 AM   #13
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nevermind, it seems that i have successfully rounded off the hubs...
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