suspension links-which is stronger?

[pickup1]

is making your own links better than using the traxxas turnbuckles?
are they stronger and less likely to bend?i'd like to start gathering parts,so i'd like to do it right the first time.

[Offroader5]

Originally Posted by pickup1

is making your own links better than using the traxxas turnbuckles?
are they stronger and less likely to bend?i'd like to start gathering parts,so i'd like to do it right the first time.

I wouldn't say "better", but making your own is cheaper and can be just as strong (and lighter depending on what you make them out of).

The last set I made for my WK, I used 1/4" acetal TUBE sleeved over some 8-32 all thread. It was so easy. I cut the tube to length, ran a drill bit down it lengthwise to open up the inside just a hair more, and then slid the all thread right down through it. Then just screwed on some Revo ends.

You can get acetal tube for like $4 for a 5 foot piece. How long do you need your links to be eye to eye? I was lucky with mine. I could buy precut pieces of 8-32 all thread at 3" long and that's the exact length I needed to get the 12.5' wheebase with my Widow chassis. I think the all thread came in a box of 50 for like $6. I know of a place too that you can get the Revo ends for under $7/pack instead of paying the $9 a pack that they seem to sell for everywhere.

Wheww, that was a longer post than I meant it to be

[peetiewonder]

yeah tube over allthread is the way to go. the traxxas links are crap comparitively.

[pickup1]

Originally Posted by Offroader5

I wouldn't say "better", but making your own is cheaper and can be just as strong (and lighter depending on what you make them out of).

The last set I made for my WK, I used 1/4" acetal TUBE sleeved over some 8-32 all thread. It was so easy. I cut the tube to length, ran a drill bit down it lengthwise to open up the inside just a hair more, and then slid the all thread right down through it. Then just screwed on some Revo ends.

You can get acetal tube for like $4 for a 5 foot piece. How long do you need your links to be eye to eye? I was lucky with mine. I could buy precut pieces of 8-32 all thread at 3" long and that's the exact length I needed to get the 12.5' wheebase with my Widow chassis. I think the all thread came in a box of 50 for like $6. I know of a place too that you can get the Revo ends for under $7/pack instead of paying the $9 a pack that they seem to sell for everywhere.

Wheww, that was a longer post than I meant it to be

use the large revo ends?like this...http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-5347-Rev...sid=p1638.m118

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Rod-Ends...sid=p1638.m118

[Shaun]

Originally Posted by Offroader5

You can get acetal tube for like $4 for a 5 foot piece. How long do you need your links to be eye to eye? I was lucky with mine. I could buy precut pieces of 8-32 all thread at 3" long and that's the exact length I needed to get the 12.5' wheebase with my Widow chassis. I think the all thread came in a box of 50 for like $6. I know of a place too that you can get the Revo ends for under $7/pack instead of paying the $9 a pack that they seem to sell for everywhere.

Where did you find this box of all thread? I normal find its cheaper to buy a "pack of all thread and cut it to length than buy smaller pieces that are pre cut. My ace hardware sells 4 3ft sections for $5.00.



I normally use 4-40 all thread sleeved with Acetal. Seems to work good.

But I also feel that the Traxxas turnbuckle work very good and the fact they are ready to bolt in makes them good for the newer guys.

You can also use arrows to make links, do a little search and the post should be somewhere around here.

I've used pretty much everything for a link.

My final opinion is 4-40 all thread sleeved with Acetal.

[newbe]

Like above state. Stronger, maybe. Better, depends. The traxxas ones are pretty strong but if you need custom ones, you will probably have to fab your own. Its all what you want to do. I use some 1/4" aluminum and drill and tap mine. then thread with some 8-32 all thread and cut off what I need.

[Natedog]

Traxxxas T-Maxx and Revo links work great and both are plenty strong...I've never broken or bent either on a crawler.

[Offroader5]

Originally Posted by pickup1

use the large revo ends?like this...http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-5347-Rev...sid=p1638.m118

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Rod-Ends...sid=p1638.m118

Those are the one's.

Originally Posted by Shaun

Where did you find this box of all thread? I normal find its cheaper to buy a "pack of all thread and cut it to length than buy smaller pieces that are pre cut. My ace hardware sells 4 3ft sections for $5.00.



I normally use 4-40 all thread sleeved with Acetal. Seems to work good.

But I also feel that the Traxxas turnbuckle work very good and the fact they are ready to bolt in makes them good for the newer guys.

You can also use arrows to make links, do a little search and the post should be somewhere around here.

I've used pretty much everything for a link.

My final opinion is 4-40 all thread sleeved with Acetal.

McMaster Carr sells the all thread in boxes of precut lengths. They have lengths other than 3" too, but you're limited to maybe 2 or 3 usable lengths.

With 4-40 though, you end up having to use the standard Maxx rod ends (the smaller one's). For Revo ends (turnbuckle & pushrod ends...not shock ends), you need a minimum of 4mm or 8-32 all thread.

[JavelinSST390]

I make mine from UNPLATED 8-32 allthread (the unplated part comes in in a second) with three different sizes of K&S aluminum tubing over it for sleeves. I don't know what the other two sizes are, but the outside sleeve is 1/4", and the other two pieces are a very nice slip-fit inside of those. Then I use the SHORT Revo rod ends. (you could use the long ones, but I prefer the shorts because they look better)

Now, the reason you need UNPLATED allthread is because the smallest size of aluminum tubing is not just a slip-fit over the allthread. You actually have to THREAD the allthread into the tubing. And PLATED allthread won't fit without running a tap all the way down thru the tube (almost impossible) while the unplated stuff is just small enough and will cut it's own threads going in.

Done this way, these things are SUPER strong. I can't bend 'em by hand, and I've only ever bent one, and that took tumbling down a flight of concrete stairs!

[ericclarkbandit]

I have always wondered. Why do people drill and tap into solid aluminum to put althread instead of just using a dye to cut the threads right onto the aluminum.

[Offroader5]

Originally Posted by ericclarkbandit

I have always wondered. Why do people drill and tap into solid aluminum to put althread instead of just using a dye to cut the threads right onto the aluminum.

Because if using .250" diameter stock (most widely used), the material that has to be removed at the end of the aluminum rod in order to die it down to fit 8-32 or 4-40 is far more than if you just tap out the end. Try taking a die meant for 8-32 and run it down onto the end of a piece of .250" aluminum rod...then you'll understand.

Not to mention....the all thread will be stronger than if it was just aluminum threaded directly into the rod end.

[duleonar]

Originally Posted by ericclarkbandit

I have always wondered. Why do people drill and tap into solid aluminum to put althread instead of just using a dye to cut the threads right onto the aluminum.

That would definately be easier.


I personally used the carbon fiber hunting arrows for my links. They are super light. The difference with the arrows is you use inserts in each end, which are tapped for 6-32 or 8-32 (I can't remember). I just cut the heads off of some screws and install the hyme joints on the ends.

Here is an old pic, but it shows a link.

[edman87k5]

My links will never bend!
1/4" solid rod, drilled and tapped for 6-32 insert( screws with head cut off) all this was free/ laying around
Bought a pack of traxxis ends and still have some extras
the 6' sections of allthread are under $3, but I didn't have a chance to get to the hardware store until after I made the links.
I did buy a 6' stick of 4-40 for my steering for $1.79, sleeved it with blue plastic tubing

[ericclarkbandit]

"Because if using .250" diameter stock (most widely used), the material that has to be removed at the end of the aluminum rod in order to die it down to fit 8-32 or 4-40 is far more than if you just tap out the end. Try taking a die meant for 8-32 and run it down onto the end of a piece of .250" aluminum rod...then you'll understand"


If it is only the work it takes about 10 min. per link. Jigsaw, vice grip, three dyes (ending in 5 mm x 80), large revo rod ends.

Just wondered if this had been tried before and failed for a reason or why everyone is so quick to shut it down. I found it was a simple way to make links for a newbie.

[pan]

I have used a few different things like solid tapped aluminium rod that has been tapped with allthread rod, 5/32 allthread rod with plastic garden dripper lines or aluminium tube. my favourite at the moment though is to use 1/4 hardened copper pipe that i salvaged at the local tip over 5/32 allthread. that seems to me to be the strongest ive used so far and it looks pretty cool too

[savagecamaro]

i found out after lots of math that u can tap 3/16 aluminum rod with an .049" wall with 4-40 easily the tap drill bit measures .088"dia. the i.d. of the tube is .077 so u just have to drill it out a little bit nd u can tap it perfectly... i can figure out other size rod if u want meh to.

[Locked Up]

I think a few of you are confusing rod & tube. Rod is solid stock and tube is hollow.



I used Dubro 6-32 rod ends and ran some 6-32 all-thread through 1/4 .49 wall round tube. On the chassis end I replaced the smaller screws with more 6-32 all-thread through the whole chassis and sleeved that as well:

[Offroader5]

Originally Posted by edman87k5

My links will never bend!
1/4" solid rod, drilled and tapped for 6-32 insert( screws with head cut off) all this was free/ laying around
Bought a pack of traxxis ends and still have some extras
the 6' sections of allthread are under $3, but I didn't have a chance to get to the hardware store until after I made the links.
I did buy a 6' stick of 4-40 for my steering for $1.79, sleeved it with blue plastic tubing

You'd think 1/4" solid aluminum rod would never bend huh? I have bent it :-P That was a link that was almost 7" long though, so if you stay short, the likelyhood of bending it is slim....but there's always a longer fall On average, thick wall tube is stronger than solid rod of the same size.

Originally Posted by Locked Up

I think a few of you are confusing rod & tube. Rod is solid stock and tube is hollow.



I used Dubro 6-32 rod ends and ran some 6-32 all-thread through 1/4 .49 wall round tube. On the chassis end I replaced the smaller screws with more 6-32 all-thread through the whole chassis and sleeved that as well:

I think savagecamaro is the only one who mislabeled one of his pieces, but everyone else seems to be right on with what is what.

[savagecamaro]

opps i meant tube

[crhobbies]

I make and use Carbon fiber links,I buy the carbon fiber tubes use 440 all thread and traxxas links,I have had no problems and they are super light.