flipping the chassis

[H1guy]

Ok guys I have been reading the WK forum for a while now, and have noticed that it is very common to reverse(flip)the chassis. What all is involved. I haven't really seen anyone post instructions about this. I am assuming that it is a lot easier if you have a axle mounted servo instead of stock. can this be done with the stock steering? I kinda like the stock location just because it looks more scale to me. I would appreciate any kind of info on this as I am new to this and am building my new WK to be a trail scalish rig. Thankx guy

[bigblazerboy]

Originally Posted by H1guy

Ok guys I have been reading the WK forum for a while now, and have noticed that it is very common to reverse(flip)the chassis. What all is involved. I haven't really seen anyone post instructions about this. I am assuming that it is a lot easier if you have a axle mounted servo instead of stock. can this be done with the stock steering? I kinda like the stock location just because it looks more scale to me. I would appreciate any kind of info on this as I am new to this and am building my new WK to be a trail scalish rig. Thankx guy

your doing the same thing im going to do. i am tryin to figure out linkage when reversing chassis so if i do it i will post it, but am most likely going put battery in front.

[SnoopMaxx]

I have done the reverse chassis with the stering servo still on the chassis
the link and servo needs to be mounted on the other side of the gear box and the link to the front axle must be 94mm from inside to inside and you need to fab a new support for the servo

I hope this will explaine it enogh
if not I can take a few pics

Regards

[BJoe]

Here's how I did mine

And here's the whole line up of pics I took that night
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Wheely%20King/

[SnoopMaxx]

i think the stock servo mount is restricting the trawel of the upper v link

[BJoe]

Originally Posted by SnoopMaxx

i think the stock servo mount is restricting the trawel of the upper v link

Depends on how you have it setup, I broke the stock saver so I put in a standard long servo arm which made a difference as did making the adjustable upper pushrod.

[H1guy]

thankx Bjoe that picture actually helped a lot. I had an idea of what I wanted to do, but it really helps when you can see what others have done.
It looks like you have swapped your stock servo? Did you notice a difference in good or bad when doing you steering mod?

[Locked Up]

I went a little out the box as my chassis isn't "flipped". Instead, I just moved the battery to the front with velcro & rubber bands. I needed to move the shocks down a bit to allow full travel in the front. With my trimmed springs I don't have much uptravel anyway so it's sort of a droop setup. I have bumpstops to prevent hard bottoming too.


I did this because I cut & lowered the batt box and stuffed a dig servo in it.

[SnoopMaxx]

A little stretch made it 30mm longer








Still good flex

[SnoopMaxx]

A little stretch made it 30mm longer






link rod is 128mm total without ballends


Still good flex

[BJoe]

Originally Posted by H1guy

thankx Bjoe that picture actually helped a lot. I had an idea of what I wanted to do, but it really helps when you can see what others have done.
It looks like you have swapped your stock servo? Did you notice a difference in good or bad when doing you steering mod?

Not much improvement with hte 625mg over stock, I want to go with the 900T servo from JR

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Not much improvement with hte 625mg over stock, I want to go with the 900T servo from JR

This is what I run and it's a nice improvement over stock for a great price:
http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.c...75/4462001.htm

We get the SF-1 out the box...
I can't find specs on the SF-1, but the SF-2 puts out 90 oz/in

If I had to guess I'd say the SF-1 is probably closer to 60oz/in.

[CrawlerGraphics]

Originally Posted by Locked Up

This is what I run and it's a nice improvement over stock for a great price:
http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.c...75/4462001.htm

We get the SF-1 out the box...
I can't find specs on the SF-1, but the SF-2 puts out 90 oz/in

If I had to guess I'd say the SF-1 is probably closer to 60oz/in.

"the HPI SF-1 servo provides around 40 oz-in of torque at 6.0 volts"
from an RC Universe review...

[Locked Up]

Originally Posted by MikeyMike1969

"the HPI SF-1 servo provides around 40 oz-in of torque at 6.0 volts"
from an RC Universe review...

Wow, that IS crap.


Thanks for the info

[resetpunk]

so if i flip the chassis will i need to change any wires? like the ones going to the motor?

[BJoe]

Originally Posted by resetpunk

so if i flip the chassis will i need to change any wires? like the ones going to the motor?

Just swap the motor wires from red-peach and black-blue to red-blue and black-peach (for the stock motor btw), red-black and black-red, or resolder the red to the negitive side and black to the positive side of the motor.

[resetpunk]

yea i got it...thx tho

[BJoe]

No Problem

[phase10]

Originally Posted by BJoe

Just swap the motor wires from red-peach and black-blue to red-blue and black-peach (for the stock motor btw), red-black and black-red, or resolder the red to the negitive side and black to the positive side of the motor.

sorry to make you repeat yourself.. but your sayin if i flip my chassis i just need to flip the wires to my motor? ( red to neg and black to pos, like you siad) besides that i just need to switch my axles right? thnx!! i kno im a scrub =P

(and change my steering servo links)

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by phase10

sorry to make you repeat yourself.. but your sayin if i flip my chassis i just need to flip the wires to my battery? ( red to neg and black to pos, like you siad) besides that i just need to switch my axles right? thnx!! i kno im a scrub =P

(and change my steering servo links)

DON'T SWITCH YOUR BATTERY WIRES... Switch your MOTOR wires.