MORE modified.

[gearmonkey23]

Ok, on my last thread, i kept hearing my rig was to high, so i did some remounting to the shocks, and it sits way lower. im in the midst of a new body scheme so the paint (absent of) is disregardable. Just put my new 55t lathe in today =D Any ideas for me? tips? (compliments perhaps?) haha.

[gearmonkey23]

camara dates are handytarded...

[crawl rookie]

Originally Posted by gearmonkey23

camara dates are handytarded...

the rig itself to!
Sorry but its all crooked and wrong
Why make a partialy chassis and add it to a crappy chassi,
Why not make/design a new one its pretty easy to make a nice one that will perform better

[gearmonkey23]

ouch.... well for one, i ran out of meterial, and im BROKE. two, it performs like a champ from what i have experienced, it is rather hard to flip, has articulation above and beyond, and carries itself up inclines that superman would have to use a rope. Ive put most of my money into go, not show.

[jbrandt]

gobs of articulation is not the end all be all. You don't want TOO much travel, that can end up hurting you - your wheel can drop you into holes easier, rather than allowing the wheel to float over the holes. You have too much damn travel.

Really, the only way to lower the CG of that chassis, is to build a new one and clock the motor/tranny mount so the motor is nearest the bottom (heaviest part on bottom).

[Locked Up]

I understand the need to keep part of the stock chassis for cost savings, but by adding to it you may have made it top heavier.

I'd suggest lowering the upper part of your chassis that holds your battery ... as low as possible. Problem is that you have your servo mounted vertically, so your battery may hit it if you don't rearrange it. Even if your tranny/motor ends up hitting the roof of the shell because you lower it so much,it's fine. So long as you are lowering COG.



As far as flex, most people will tell you a 2.2 shouldn't flex beyond being able to put a tire on a soft drink can. Mine has a little more flex than that (not much) and I'm happy with it. The reasoning behind the no flex is that you can drop a tire into a void and it'll bind up. Also, rigs that flexy tend to lean a lot when they sidehill.

I like the flatbed idea

[gearmonkey23]

Well, i need to make a different servo mount, this was just a quick slop job to get me out of the house. Idealy, i would like to make a tuber, but i cant find a thread that has measuremnets, and angles and what not. I have built this whole thing for under $115 bucks (plus orig price). so, i mean, im happy with it, just somthin i have fun with.

[PONYBOY87LX]

do what you can with what you got , if it floats your boat man then thats cool man . all that said keep on rollin man build it like you want it

[gearmonkey23]

I totaly agree with you ponyboy, VERY SADLY i dont have a esc. so pushing it around in my room is about as far as im getting =(

[Natedog]

Get yer feet off the table! j/k As stated, too much flex is not good, lay your servo down on it's side. What happened to your esc?

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by gearmonkey23

Any ideas for me? tips? (compliments perhaps?) haha.

Hmm, where should I start?


Reduce the flex.

Place the shocks more vertical.

Lower you motor.

Purchase a smaller battery.

Purchase new lower travel shocks.

Bend the links for better clearance.

Scrap the chassis and start over. Use aluminum and build nothing that resembles a stock WK chassis.

Lower your electronics

Lower your body

Ditch the 3 link



Now since you on a budget

Lower the battery

Mount the shocks in the same mount at the lower links. (move the shocks to the link mounts.)

Lower the electronics

Bend the lower links for clearance

[gearmonkey23]

Move the shocks to the link mounts??? what? now, all the electronics are sitting on the three link, (minus the esc) the esc got smoked when i pluged the batt in. Im trying to figure out how to lopwer the motor, but i am out of alum to make a new chassi. I can bend the links, will do. even if i lay the servo down, i have no were to mount it lower, unless i lay the sf-2 down, and put the bat back on the three link, and have it rest of the servo, if thats ok to do. Now, what is the advantage of having a four link, rather than three? i know it looks way better, but whats the perpous? i need to get a vid of this thing once i get my esc, so you can see that the cog as is, isnt really that bad (although it CAN be improved) it holds on some side hills. i can understand the abundance of flex, and i could probably modify those shocks to not give as much.
thanks for the help guys <(o-O<)

[gearmonkey23]

Well, i decided to change the whole project. so i built it into a tuber! finished it today, at about 7:30 pm, and started at about 8:30 am. set the servo down flat, got some rustler rear suspension, with softer shocks, and moved the link mounts up kinda high so the wont catch on anything. ill get pictures up tmrw afternoon.

[Littledeuce]

looking forward to seeing what you came up with

[TwistedXT]

as a test for ya... if your wires will allow... take that battery ontop of the front axle and take her for a spin... Alot of guys run with thier batteries up front, lower center of gravity and added traction on the front tires... That may be a direction to move twards. welcome to brokeland - aka.. fabland. you will be amazed at what you can build a chassis out of. keep it coming!
and on a side note.. i kinda like the body you have on there.

[gearmonkey23]

Ok, well, there is my first tuber. Still cant run it, need a esc, but im happy with looks, and cog seems to be MUCH lower. Still gotta figure out a way to get the batt in there. It wont fit long ways on the upper links, not because of the servo, but because it hits the bottom of the front skid plate. Im not sure if that matters, im not thinking so, it doesnt effect articulation, but it doesnt have any up travel. like if you push straight down on the front of the rig, it cant move. Does that matter? The only reason ive ever known to need direct up travel, is when you have some speed behind you. With crawling, i dont think its a nessecity. am i wrong?


1) it has about an 1 1/2" more flex than a can, so not TO much??

2) nice grab on the tires. How well does everyone like moabs?

3) moved the servo out of the way as much as possible. seems to work well, but, i STILL dont have room for the batt. Its not in the way of the servo anymore though.

4) Thanks G-made for the good looking, pain in the butt to install beaders.

[pickup1]

Originally Posted by gearmonkey23

Ok, well, there is my first tuber. Still cant run it, need a esc, but im happy with looks, and cog seems to be MUCH lower. Still gotta figure out a way to get the batt in there. It wont fit long ways on the upper links, not because of the servo, but because it hits the bottom of the front skid plate. Im not sure if that matters, im not thinking so, it doesnt effect articulation, but it doesnt have any up travel. like if you push straight down on the front of the rig, it cant move. Does that matter? The only reason ive ever known to need direct up travel, is when you have some speed behind you. With crawling, i dont think its a nessecity. am i wrong?


1) it has about an 1 1/2" more flex than a can, so not TO much??

2) nice grab on the tires. How well does everyone like moabs?

3) moved the servo out of the way as much as possible. seems to work well, but, i STILL dont have room for the batt. Its not in the way of the servo anymore though.

4) Thanks G-made for the good looking, pain in the butt to install beaders.

um,how did you mount that steering servo to the axle?

[dieselfuel]

well its better than it was... ditch the way too tall stinger bar on the front end.

[gearmonkey23]

Originally Posted by pickup1

um,how did you mount that steering servo to the axle?

Did you see those handy tubes sitting next to the rig? haha, i dont have anymore material to make a mount. Its WAYYYYYYY strong.

as for the stinger, i like the way it looks =D

All my money has gone into go, not show. as far as looks go, i spent $4.99 on spray paint, and thats it. everything else is performance enhancing.