| | #1 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
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| | #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: OC, Oregon
Posts: 815
| so those dogbones go inside the axle?..i know nothing about force axles... I would just look for another truck that uses smaller dogbones...maybe like hpi something..whats the lenght they need to be? |
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| | #3 |
| 06 Super National Champ ![]() Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| I would suggest contacting RCALLOYS and have him make you a set from stainless steel. $40 if I remember correctly. |
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| | #4 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| jeez, $40 haha, i was looking for a little cheaper of an answer. uh lets see, i think the dogbones need to be about 3 3/8", and i will need 4 of them. is there any way i could cut them or anything of that sort? thanks jordan |
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| | #5 |
| 06 Super National Champ ![]() Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| You could try cutting them and re-welding, but then you'd have to worry about how straight they are. Here's something I found on Tower. You said you needed 3 5/8"....that's 92.075mm Here's some 92.5mm dogbones for the Duratrax Axis/Nitro Quake. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXPR93&P=7 |
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| | #6 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| yea, i was thinking of cutting a chunk out, then sliding a sleeve over them and JBwelding the sleeve on(i dont have a welder). do you think that would hold it? for $11 bucks i cant really go wrong, thanks for the link. |
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| | #7 |
| 06 Super National Champ ![]() Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| If you cut them, I'd suggest a grub screw and sleeve (assuming you grind a flat spot on each half of the dogbone) if you have the space inside the axle. Something I'm wondering....Why on earth would you cut the axles down without having a plan for dogbones ahead of time? |
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| | #8 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| hahaha, i dont know, it just seemed like a good idea. i just had these axles laying around, so i decided to use them on a scale truck, and started cutting. i think ill use the grub screw, that should keep power to the wheels ha thanks |
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| | #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| anyone else have any ideas before i go and start cutting? |
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| | #10 | |
| 31st place in 2006 Nats!! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Columbia Gorge
Posts: 5,475
| Quote:
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| | #11 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Michigan
Posts: 568
| I extended some shafts by cutting the shaft and using a press pin that slides over the shaft and welded it. know anyone with a welder or go to a local shop. worst case, send me the shafts and I'll weld them for ya. FYI, I tried jb weld and it doesn't hold. good luck and test fit your lengths before you weld them up |
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| | #12 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| Take a piece of mild steel rod from the hardware store and drill into the ends. Around an inch is good. Cut your shafts in half and drop them in the holes. Braze the ends in. All you need is a propane torch and a brazing rod from the hardware store. Its that simple. I've done this to both drive shafts and I made a short axle from two broken axles on my TF. It works very well. You'll snap the shaft before the braze lets go. When the metal glows orange the brazing rod will melt and fill the gap between the metal parts. |
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| | #13 | |
| 06 Super National Champ ![]() Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| Quote:
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| | #14 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| Thats a good point but it was'nt that much of a concern after I did it a couple times. Keep the torch moving and touch the brazing rod to the piece your heating. As soon as the metal is hot enough it will melt the flux and rod. If the rod sticks, the metal is not hot enough. |
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| | #15 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| Quote:
thanks jordan | |
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| | #16 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| You have the right gas. If you feel that the propane takes to long to heat up, use mapp gas (yellow bottle). Thats what I use. Buy brazing rods that have flux on them. They are coated and white. I forgot to mention sanding or grinding the finish off the dogbones. I don't know if you have to. I just did it anyway. |
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| | #17 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 152
| Nice job, good luck with the axles. By the way, you just given me an idea. Thanks. |
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| | #18 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 15
| Well on my 4 inch widened clod I used a lathe and bored the center after cutting them in half. I then silver soldered a stainless rod into them. They should hold not problem. I also used this procedure for making the driveshafts on Half-pint and after many runs and a comp. they have not broken. |
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| | #19 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| That sounds like a cool idea. The cool thing about dogbones is that they will work fine if they arent perfectly straight. |
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| | #20 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004 Location: portland OR
Posts: 234
| alright, thanks for all the info tracker, i havent started cutting the dogbones yet because of school, but im off for the rest of the week, and im probably going to go get some more propane/mapp tonight so i can finish them tomorrow. this is going to be so sweet when im done. by the way, im using these axles on a scale mud bogger im making. of course this mud bogger will be capable of conquering the rocks (lol), but its going to be mainly built for scaleness and mud boggerness. jordan |
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