*** Twin Force Upgrades ***

[pureadrenalin]

Ok I got the Hot Bodies ring and pinion and I must say it has a very nice spiral cut. Not to mention the LHS guy says alot of Kyosho buggy owners is using this HB ring and pinion. Which you could find more often than Kyosho ring and pinion. Oh yeah diff. outdrives is much more beefier and everthing bolts up nice and rotates way more smoothly than stock ring and pinion.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LXJBM4&P
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LXJBM3&P

[Bart bender]

This is an Ofna Torsen Diff (torque sensing) It dose work in our Twins. Found at Tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMVX9&P=PU

Oh and these sure look familiar
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEPA9&P=M

[Reflection]

And with RCP having a SUPER deal on Twin axles kits (wide or narrow options)Twins can be built easily.

[Bart bender]

Here's a list of HB parts that work. Both Tower/HB part#'s

43T Helical ring gear #LXJBM4/C9010

10T Helical pinion #LXJBM3/C9009

Steel bevel & spider gears #LXEPA8/C8101

Hardened steel "" #LXLGV5/C8101-1

Right/Left Knuckle #LXEPA9/C8081

King pins #LXJBE7/C8063

Rubber sealed 8x16mm bearings(4) #LXJBE2/C8020-1


And some OFNA parts. Tower/OFNA part #

Torsen Diff #LXMVX9/10596

NEW gear set OFNA# 40626

12T pinion (Hyper 7) #LXCVT8/19028

43T ring gear (Hyper 7) #LXCVR1/19001

13T pinion (Jammin) #LXLMX1/40516

43T ring gear (Jammin) #LXLMX2/40517

Knuckle (Hyper 7) #LXCVU2/19032

CNC Knuckle (Hyper 7) #LXCWA8/19304

Knuckle (Jammin X-1CR) #LXLLE4/40520

Rubber sealed 8x16mm bearings (2) #LXBZP0/36053

Stainles king pin set (Hyper 7) #LXCWA4/19232

Not sure but these measure VERY close to both Twin axle shafts
they measure 104mm & 93mm long
Center Swing shafts (Hyper 7) #LXCVX7/19067

Here are some VERY beefy ball ends for links
6-7mm balls #LXCWJ4/36850

6-7mm ball end #LXCWH9/36690

[ThinkTank]

Check this out
http://ofna.com/newproducts.php
I checked and Tower does not have the gears in stock yet

Edit:
Stormer has the X1-CR gears. Supposedly they fit the 777 buggies and are spiral cut.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=OFN40626

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by GT40

Check this out
http://ofna.com/newproducts.php
I checked and Tower does not have the gears in stock yet

That would probably be a good option. IMHO though,the helical gears are still a better option.

[guido_owl]

Originally Posted by Bart bender

This is an Ofna Torsen Diff (torque sensing) It dose work in our Twins. Found at Tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMVX9&P=PU

[...]

I have 2 OFNA TorSen on my TwinForce and they perfectly fit: it's a good choose to use in trial and they seem to be strong...

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by guido_owl

I have 2 OFNA TorSen on my TwinForce and they perfectly fit: it's a good choose to use in trial and they seem to be strong...

I'm curious as to what makes those worth $120. I'm curious to see how they work and how well they work. Can you post any pictures of the inerds of these?

[Bart bender]

They are like the Detroit Truetrac.

[guido_owl]

No, no... they are real TorSen... see http://ofna.com/pdf/Torsen-Diff-F&R.pdf...

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by guido_owl

No, no... they are real TorSen... see http://ofna.com/pdf/Torsen-Diff-F&R.pdf...

Thanks for the link. Looks like a nice design and looks tough. Looking at the pics though,I'm still having a hard time seeing how it differs from a open diff performance wise.

[jeepfreak1972]

They work just like a real Torsen or Detroit true-track. Good for regular trail use but will not lock up if 1 tire is off the ground. On a real rig you can make it work by applying brake pressure to trick the diff into "thinking" it has some traction at the wheel that is hanging in the air but that can't be done on an Rc crawler. I had the True-Track in my real Jeep's front axle. Waaay better than an open diff but not a replacement for a locker. It just depends on what you are using it for. This being a crawler forum I would be willing to bet that most of us need the locked axles. I plan on building a 4 link Twin for general bashing and the torsen diffs would work great but if I choose to crawl with it RC Alloy spools will go front and rear.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak1972

They work just like a real Torsen or Detroit true-track. Good for regular trail use but will not lock up if 1 tire is off the ground.

Thats what I was thinking......$3 worth of CA it is then

If I was building a truck for the track or just bashing around the yard,maybe they'd work great for that. Still be hard to cough up that much dough though,a tube of 500,000 weight diff oil will do simular

[guido_owl]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak1972

They work just like a real Torsen or Detroit true-track. Good for regular trail use but will not lock up if 1 tire is off the ground. On a real rig you can make it work by applying brake pressure to trick the diff into "thinking" it has some traction at the wheel that is hanging in the air but that can't be done on an Rc crawler. I had the True-Track in my real Jeep's front axle. Waaay better than an open diff but not a replacement for a locker. It just depends on what you are using it for. This being a crawler forum I would be willing to bet that most of us need the locked axles. I plan on building a 4 link Twin for general bashing and the torsen diffs would work great but if I choose to crawl with it RC Alloy spools will go front and rear.

Yeah, I think so... I've 2 TwinForce: 1 for rock-crawling (under construction) with lockers, 1 for trial (ready and already used) with TorSen... and until now I'm very satisfied: obviously they don't replace lockers but they have a good performance and they permit to you to turn perfecty...

[guido_owl]

First question: BS19 are stock hubs on TwinForce and BS76 are stock hubs in MadForce... which is the difference??
Second question: IF6B are stock hubs of Inferno (ST-R and MP777), but has anyone tested them on Twin/Mad axles?

Thanks in advance! :-P

[Reflection]

Some buggy hubs have caster built into them,gotta be careful about that part. I've got some buggy hubs here that will bolt up fine,same bearings and everything.....they've just got caster built in.

The difference between the Mad/Twin hubs...I'm not sure exactlly what the difference is but I know they will bolt up fine. I've run Twin and Mad Force hub carriers with no issues. If I was to guess at the difference,it would probably be in the arms where the steering linkage bolts up

[Bart bender]

Originally Posted by guido_owl

Second question: IF6B are stock hubs of Inferno (ST-R and MP777), but has anyone tested them on Twin/Mad axles?

Thanks in advance! :-P

These have not been tested, though I did include them on the list as an option due to the bearing size and interchangable kingpins and screws. Like Raptorman said they probably have some castor built in.

If I had some connections, psst jason, I would get some and test them to make this a 100% yes answer.

[guido_owl]

Originally Posted by Bart bender

These have not been tested, though I did include them on the list as an option due to the bearing size and interchangable kingpins and screws. Like Raptorman said they probably have some castor built in.

If I had some connections, psst jason, I would get some and test them to make this a 100% yes answer.

Wait a moment... I've bought a set of 2 complete TF axles and these axles are arrived with IF6B (and I don't know the reason), but they are quite different from BS19 (TF stock) and they don't permit to turn well... in other words, they limit the radius of steering...

[mxdomzy]

Did you try turning the knuckles so they face the opposite direction on different sides. This usually increases the turning quite a bit. It was also required to cut a notch through the middle of the shock mounting area for the knuckles to clear easier (will give more clearance for turning).

On a different subject, my stock ring and pinion has lasted over a year.

Anyway, the reason I was looking on here was to figure out what axle shafs I could use for the short side.
I tried a rc10gt dogbone (too small), I also tried a raze dogbone (right size, but a little to long, I'll have to return it), then I tried an XTM Xterminator buggy short side.......voilla a perfect fit.

The moral of the story:
Check what you have in your toolbox before trying the hobby shop!! Especially if you have an 8th scal buggy as well. I'm pretty sure the
extra r/p for the buggy will work in the twin crawler.

What are you guys doing with the CA glue? I used JB Weld in the diff a year ago and worked fine.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by mxdomzy

Did you try turning the knuckles so they face the opposite direction on different sides. This usually increases the turning quite a bit. It was also required to cut a notch through the middle of the shock mounting area for the knuckles to clear easier (will give more clearance for turning).

Please post a picture on how you actually figured this out. Flipping the knuckles allows the use of BTA steering. More/better turning radius.....I don't see it. How tight will your truck turn a 180 degree turn?

Mine are still in the factory configuration with uncut steering stops. I bet I can turn sharper:-P

Originally Posted by mxdomzy

Anyway, the reason I was looking on here was to figure out what axle shafs I could use for the short side.
I tried a rc10gt dogbone (too small), I also tried a raze dogbone (right size, but a little to long, I'll have to return it), then I tried an XTM Xterminator buggy short side.......voilla a perfect fit.

The moral of the story:
Check what you have in your toolbox before trying the hobby shop!! Especially if you have an 8th scal buggy as well. I'm pretty sure the
extra r/p for the buggy will work in the twin crawler.

What are you guys doing with the CA glue? I used JB Weld in the diff a year ago and worked fine.

Please post pics/part numbers of said dog bones......length of them?

CA glue.....diff lock. Same theory as JB Weld but cheaper:-P