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02-26-2005, 03:33 AM
| #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: scottsdale
Posts: 56
|  longer drive shafts just wondering what you guys run and any suggestions on them |
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02-26-2005, 10:10 AM
| #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: South Lyon
Posts: 142
| On my X-Factor, I cut the driveshafts then took some stainless tubing and brazed it in to extend them. |
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02-26-2005, 12:32 PM
| #3 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| For the TF, I cut the shafts in half. Then I used some mild steel bar stock, drilled the ends in an inch or so. Inserted the two shaft halves and brazed it. To keep the shaft from falling out of the cup joint, I put a tack weld on each side of the cup joint. I managed to run all last summer without breaking a shaft. First run this year and I finally twisted it off at the end of the ball.  |
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02-26-2005, 11:45 PM
| #4 |
| TEAM MODERATOR   Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,770
| My front driveshaft can allow for a length from 7" to 12" from tranny output to pinion. My rear driveshaft is a bit shorter,it will allow for 5" to 10" from tranny output to pinion. After my 1:1 scale 1/4" heimed suspention links,they are probly the strongest part of my whole truck. The best part is,they will allow for just about any wheelbase you'd want to run without any modification. Trac95ker,whats that servo in your picture for? I thought you had axle mounted servos for your steering,you got that rigged for something inperticular?   Last edited by Reflection; 02-26-2005 at 11:51 PM. |
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02-27-2005, 08:12 AM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 184
| Nope, thats a 1/4 scale servo for the steering. I went with the stock steering but modified it and beefed it up and useing the aluminum bellcranks and got rid of the servo saver. |
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03-05-2005, 12:12 PM
| #6 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Heber, Utah
Posts: 87
| raptorman57 - did you make or buy your shafts? Where'd you get them or how'd you make them? |
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03-06-2005, 09:52 AM
| #7 |
| TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,770
| 1/4" wobblies,1/4" allen wrenches,1/4" deepwell sockets and some 1/2" tube. 1st step: 1/4" wobblies welded to your factory drive cups. 2nd step: On one wobbly weld a section of a allen wrench to the wobbly. 3rd step: Weld a small section of 1/2" tube to the wobbly 4th step: cut section of deepwell socket and drive into 1/2" tube and weld it in. 5th step: (optional) grind down all welds with a flapper disc 6th step: install on the vehicle. Unless your taking your truck apart this is the last time you'll have to take these off or repair them. This picture helps to understand the steps Theres a few threads on here that I've described on how I build them. You could search for them for more detail. To aid in keeping stuff centerd up you can clamp things in a small piece of angle before welding,it worked excellent for me. |
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03-15-2005, 03:39 PM
| #8 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Corryton
Posts: 40
| new era sells extended titanium shafts that are about 1" longer to go with their extended chassis plates. http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...n&part_id=1609 |
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03-15-2005, 04:39 PM
| #9 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chicago
Posts: 11
| I made some from macine parts and slotted the shaft for movement on both ends . http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/northg...=/1760&.src=phhttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/northgate1@sbcglobal.net/slideshow?.dir=/1760&.src=ph |
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03-15-2005, 04:41 PM
| #10 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chicago
Posts: 11
| Sorry about the link .http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/northg...=/1760&.src=ph I have two sets of shafts , when I change the wheelbase I just replace the center shaft . |
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