09-13-2005, 06:24 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
| Beefy copper axles
this isn't for a crawler, but the technique still applies: those are 1/2-3/4 copper pipe adapters on the sides of the diff (it was a very tight fit, had to use a vise) brazed to the brass shroud. the shroud is installed around the diff case, then CVD cups are installed, then the adapters get pressed on. onca all that's done, i brazed the whole mess together. i wouldn't do it with the plastic diff cases, as a good deal of heat is required. the axle tubes have brackets for Maxx knuckles, using the stock wheel nuts on the back of the pivot balls to hold the knuckles in place. the steering arms will point straight up and tie into the holes in the top of the shroud, which will also be the inner attachment points for the 4-link. the extra hole on the knuckle plate is for the shock, and the outer 4-link mount. this way the axle tubes do not carry weight, or at least not much of it. while copper is soft, it's plenty strong enough in the lengths i'll end up using (approx 5 inches per side). this is going on a scale rig, a 1/6 Ranger. |
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09-14-2005, 05:31 PM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Canada, eh?
Posts: 33
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beefcake, Beefcake! BEEFCAKE!! |
09-14-2005, 05:53 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 202
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I dont know about copper. Those long tubes might be prone to slight bending that will cause it to kink the driveline. You could just sleeve it with something stronger, or atleast less prone to bending. But i'm not exactly sure what thickness you're using so this is just my experince with copper axles. It seems like since you're axles will be so long, that leverage will bend them. Hard landings from jumps may also do it. just my $0.02
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09-14-2005, 06:57 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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the tubes are only that long because the truck hasn't arrived here yet. once it gets here and i can figure out how wide to make them, they'll be cut down. there will probably be about 3-4" of copper tube on each side of the diff. and, the links on top will prevent them from bending. the tube is about .030 thick. plenty beefy.
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09-14-2005, 07:44 PM | #5 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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if it's not a crawler, then what is it? Puller? Basher?
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09-14-2005, 07:56 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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1/6 scale bash rig, a little bit of everything. mostly it's just something to build |
09-15-2005, 06:24 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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09-15-2005, 08:36 PM | #8 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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whats your final weight gonna be around? 8-10 #'s?
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09-16-2005, 04:57 AM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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if this axle is any indication, it'll be around 60-90lbs. :-P trying to keep it light, but i want it strong, too. got some more work done last nite: chopped the body down to single cab to match my 1:1 and worked on the chassis layout. looks like a hybrid plate/frame chassis, most likely brass with piano wire reinforcement. |
09-16-2005, 05:25 PM | #10 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mendocino (NOR-CAL)
Posts: 282
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wow, that is awesome. a maxx scaler. what size tires are you going for? my vote is some standard maxx swampers. harris |
09-17-2005, 05:07 AM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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it's gonna run 2.2 Moabs, they scale out to 30"
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09-17-2005, 10:02 AM | #12 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mendocino (NOR-CAL)
Posts: 282
| Quote:
harris | |
09-17-2005, 07:52 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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09-18-2005, 07:09 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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for anyone interested, here's an overall shot so far: mods, feel free to move this to chit chat, although this thing is gonna have lots of Maxx parts (tranny, diffs, front bulkheads, etc) |
09-18-2005, 07:10 PM | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 11
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u need to make it look nicer looks like u found it in a pond or a junk yard no offesne |
09-18-2005, 07:42 PM | #16 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crafty mexicans and your glass candy...
Posts: 216
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can you say work in progress?!?!?!?!!? god your a dumbass | |
09-18-2005, 07:59 PM | #17 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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are you complaining that his driveshafts are dirty? thats the only dirty part i see, and its from his shaft customizing. The rest looks clean as a whistle, and im diggin that body. The chassis looks nice as well. What did you use for sideplates? Its just really nice looking.
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09-18-2005, 08:02 PM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 11
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K Sorry
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09-18-2005, 08:35 PM | #19 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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micro, you should clean up your workbench!! it makes your crawler look all dirty!! |
09-18-2005, 09:08 PM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Malaysia
Posts: 374
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I love the driveshafts, actually. They look like they came straight out of a Madmax movie. Is silver solder the same as brazing?
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