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Thread: Wild Willy's big brother

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Old 01-13-2010, 12:14 AM   #41
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Thats cool, I have access to a water jet but no time to create it in CAD. You have some sick skills man, keep up the good work!!!!
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:41 PM   #42
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I have neither. I design it in my head and draw it out on the raw material. The frame sides took 6 tries before I actually cut them.

Latest update:

The blackout light on the fender was way out of scale and looked terrible



So I cut it up and modified it. The lamp was the only part I kept. I might put an LED in it. Not sure yet.



Front clip mostly finished. Lights are in progress but I forgot to take pics. I'll do that in the next couple days.



Mounted on the body



Hood hinges. These will give a scale look on the outside



With the hood closed



Fabbed new side steps



You can also see from the hood open pics that I'm starting to mount the electronics. The speedo and receiver sit on shelves I built on the firewall. It worked out well. Pics of those once the wiring is cleaned up. I'm still figuring out where I want the battery to go. It will fit on the firewall but there is enough weight up front already.

I'm really at an impass on the dash. The gauges look so far out of scale. They stick out about 1/8" which is way out of scale. I'm trying to figure out how to make new ones with proper bezels. This has stopped me from mounting the cowl and painting the firewall.

Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:48 AM   #43
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I really like all the minor details that you are adding to your willys. I am amazed at everything that you have added and how you have captured the actual feel and look of the body braces. I would guess that you either have a willys jeep in your garage or know someone who does. Personally I have a CJ3a in my garage and am also building up a G.I. Joe jeep to match my 1:1. I don't think I will go to all the detail that you have but these sure a great hard body to work with. P.S. to those looking for one of these bodies just take your time on ebay. You really don't need to pay the big money that some of these go for. Look for one that was actually used as a toy, is missing parts, and possibly damaged. I got mine for $30 without all the extra stuff. They are easy bodies to fix. There are two main types out there, one with steerable wheels and a removeable frame and one that has neither of those but has working headlights. Both get you a great body but the one with steerable wheels has more detail in the grill, interior, etc. and goes for quite a bit more money on average. I have seen several without steerable wheels that are being sold as parts to repair other jeeps for collectors that go for less than $20. Either type will get you what you need as most of us are going to modify the body and interior anyways.

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Old 01-17-2010, 07:29 PM   #44
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Quote:
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I would guess that you either have a willys jeep in your garage or know someone who does.
Actually, neither. I found a couple of web pages showing restored Willys and am going by pics alone. I've owned a CJ-5, YJ, and TJ but never had the privilege of owning a flattie. I love Jeeps. Maybe some day I will.
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:07 AM   #45
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Nice work looks like a fun build.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:52 PM   #46
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Great work! Your really spending the time to make it a 1/6th scale Willys...SWEET!
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:25 PM   #47
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very nice work cant wait to see it all finished and up and running
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:25 AM   #48
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Started work on the windshield frame. Like a lot of parts of the Jeep, it was shaped wrong and not really scale so I cut it up.

Here's what I started with.


The real Willys windshield frame is made from tubing and so is my new one. First, I linked the two hinge arms together with a tube.



Then, I braced the hinge arms to keep the alignment and cut away all the non-scale parts (almost all of it) and made a new tube framework.



I added some thin sheet to fill the gap and sanded it all down.



Still a lot of work to do on it. Lots of little detail.

Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:59 PM   #49
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Still looking for a 2.2 Jeep style (non-hummer) military beadlock wheel. Any ideas? I may end up using the RC4WD Landie wheels but I really want beadlocks. Either that or I wish RC4WD would do the stamped steel ones in a hex style instead of the pin style. I have to run wideners and they don't work.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:24 PM   #50
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Test fitting the painted windshield frame. Since the above pics were taken, I added a fake hinge above the glass area.



I finally got over the issue I had with the gauges. I was sitting just staring at it the other night and had an "Aha!" moment. If they are too tall, simply mill them shorter and while I' at it, mill a recess for a gauge face.



All five done.



I'll either get my graphics guy to make stick in gauges or just print some from the internet. In either case, I'll insert clear lenses over the gauges.

With that out of the way, the flood gates were open on the panel. I started fixing the shape of the opening where the steering column goes. I removed the tint light bumps over the gauges and fabbed better ones. I also sanded the unscale glovebox off and fabbed up a new door to glue in place. My dash didn't have the center handle thingy so I built one of those too.


Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:17 AM   #51
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Quote:
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Anyone know where I can find a scale drawing of a Jeep MB chassis?
I got a few drawings but not the MB










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Old 01-25-2010, 07:10 AM   #52
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This might help
It looks similar to the MB but it's a Landy chassis


Last edited by SnoopMaxx; 01-25-2010 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:40 PM   #53
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Thanks for the images
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Old 01-29-2010, 12:42 PM   #54
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Well done, sir.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:53 PM   #55
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Looks great it gets high marks and your suspension gives it a perfect stance IMO.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:49 PM   #56
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I redid the mounting of the electronics. I didn't like the fact that to remove the body, I had to unplug a bunch of wires. Here's what I came up with.

I moved the tranny over more to the left of the vehicle to create space for the electronics. Then I added a couple of Axial 40mm spacers for risers.


A small Delrin plate mounts to that.


Electronics mounted. The speedo mounts to the top of the plate and the receiver mounts underneath the plate.


I decided that the battery will mount in the rear of he Jeep. The seat will not be used. In its place, a simulated crate will house the Lipo battery. The deans plug pointing down in the previous pics connects to the battery wires that run back to the battery. I didn't want these wires dangling down or zip-tied to the chassis so I routed a channel in the chassis side frame to run the wires.


Also in the above photos, you can see that I got some RC4WD wheel spacers for the Jeep. The Junfacs I stole from my MRC Wild Willys needed to be replaced to put the wheels back on the little guy. I couldn't find the Junfacs anywhere so I got the RC4wd ones. They are designed to fit over the existing hexes. The problem is that the Axial hexes have a step on the hex and the RC4WD spacers don't have a recess for this. i solved the problem with my mill.

Hex with a step and a spacer without


You can see how the hex does not seat fully in the spacer. I was concerned it might create a wobble


I mounted them in my mill and created the recess. Now the hex fits properly in the spacer


I'm still haven't found a wheel that has the look I want. The search continues.

Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:57 PM   #57
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Sorry for the slow updates. Been doing prototype chassis for the RC company I race for.

Anyways, been working on small stuff. Rear bumper got the treatment this week.

First, I milled a pintle hook from a block of Delrin



Then, I modified the stock bumperettes to look more scale



Here they all are mounted up.



You can also see that I changed the rear shock setup. With the rear suspension setup the way it was, there was more uptravel than droop at that stance. I wanted the opposite to keep the tires from constantly rubbing the body. Also, the fore/aft angle of the shocks caused them to bind. So, I dumped the vertical extension for the shocks and milled the rear crossmember to reduce the angle. Now, it has more droop.

Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:41 PM   #58
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http://www.the-blueprints.com/bluepr...4x4_1941_jeep/
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:08 PM   #59
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Quote:
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Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:48 PM   #60
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Went back in to the shop tonight.

I needed a place to put the battery. In previous pics, you saw who my driver is. He is an adventurer and collector of artifacts. He needs a place to put those artifacts so.......

I made him a crate. The battery is held inside with Velcro. The cover will be held on with magnets.


The owner checking my work.


I'll do some sort of staining and a flat clear to protect it eventually.

Last edited by SpeedyDad; 07-03-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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