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Old 10-20-2010, 07:38 PM   #1
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Default 1:4 cj3a

This all started with a super I built for Motorama last year. It was kinda fun while it lasted, but it only lasted half way through course 2 and that was the end of that (broke AX tranny gears). So I parted it out and kept my XTM X-FACTOR axles.

Bye bye short lived super career, hello large scale!!!

The first thing that really got me excited for a large scale build for me was RC4WD releasing the RokLox' in 40 series. They are perfect for 1:4. They scale out to be a 35" tire on a 16" rim. Here's one of mine on a narrowed Axial 40 BL next to a 1.9 flatiron.



Next, I knew it had to be an old jeep because it would be easier to build the body (mostly flat panels), and I love old jeeps! Printed out a photo of a M38 grill from the interwebs and scaled it down to reproduce.



With a little bit of manual mill work, and a bunch of hand work with a dremel, heres my 1:4 scale CJ3A grill. it is made from a plastic that is a little softer than delrin .125 thick. Still needs the marker light holes.



Really wanted to use these M5 steely RC4WD rod ends on my lower links, but they dont have enough travel, so Im using them for the uppers links/axle side, and rear axle lockouts.



Scored a set of Losi LST shocks out of the wanted section. They are BIG and the springs might be a little stiff. the spring diameter is close to a 540 can. Bent the shock hoops out of 3/8" brake line and welded them with my 110v flux core mig welder. bolted to the 3/16" thick aluminum frame using 5/16-24 bolts.




And here it is as a roller. I cut the frame out on a band saw and cleaned it up with a drum sander. Skid and sliders are out of 3/8 thick delrin. Lower links are 3/8" delrin with revo rod ends on 10-32 allthread, uppers are 5/16" dia.

Just a little note, M5 bolts thread right into a 10-32 hole.

22" wheelbase. (x4 = 88". just about perfect for a flatty on 35's.)

Frame is 29 1/4" long, 6" wide.

17" track width

5 3/4" underbelly.







-Brian
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:28 PM   #2
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Holy sheep sh!t batman!!!!!!


Subscribed!!!
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:52 PM   #3
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Holy sheep sh!t batman!!!!!!


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X2
That is massive, i thought my 1:6 Titan monster was big with TXTs and Clod Slingers.
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:11 AM   #4
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Looks Awesome. I still need to build my Giant Mog I got from someone on here. I'll be using Mad force axles and 40's crushers though.
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:42 AM   #5
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Dude that thing is awesome, can't wait to see the progress from here.
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:13 AM   #6
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Subscribed!!
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:21 AM   #7
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that things fawking HUGE!!! what are you gonna power that beast with??
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:46 AM   #8
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That looks sweet so far man.
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:13 PM   #9
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Thanks guys. Here are a couple pics I've been using for ideas and dimensions.







And here is my 2D cad drawing I'm using to locate everything. I actually printed the shock hoops at 1:1 and used it as a template when bending.

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Old 10-21-2010, 08:27 PM   #10
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Im ready for mooore pics
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:33 PM   #11
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Is that rhino3d............? I like that program alot.

The build is looking shweet man!
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:13 PM   #12
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looking amazing,keep posting for us
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:19 PM   #13
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Is that rhino3d............?
Yup. I've been using rhino for 4 years now, and love it. I could have drawn this up in 3d but didn't really see the need.

Here's my bulldog Berkeley helping me measure a CJ hood I had out in the garage.



This is a test piece I made for all of the body panels. It is .070 thick lexan that I put in the oven for five minutes @ 250. It becomes very soft and I pushed it over my little 2x4 scrap with my hands in gloves. It returned to original hardness in about 30 seconds. Very happy with the test results!

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Old 10-22-2010, 07:51 PM   #14
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Very neat build man. I had a 1/6 scale TXT, and it was cool. I think I'll do a big scaler. They are awesome. Electronics aren't cheap.
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:44 PM   #15
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very nice build.

suscribed
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:06 PM   #16
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Looking good Poter. The Lexan bent nice a hell.

So when are you going the get a steel geared E-Max trany with dual 7t pullers?
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:08 PM   #17
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You should be able to drag the 'Tractor' around with this beast! You bringing the pooch to Bobrocks?
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:17 PM   #18
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Awesome build!!!! Subscribed!!! The pics and build are perfect. Keep up the great work! The inspiration is SICK!!!! Tuned in for sure!!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatesr120 View Post
What are you gonna power that beast with??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepy Inc. View Post
So when are you going the get a steel geared E-Max trany with dual 7t pullers?
Im going to try my beefed up AX10 tranny with DNA dig and 7t puller on 3s for now. If it doesnt hold up, The Emaxx trans might be viable option. Im pretty sure Im going to need a 2:1 gear reduction unit for my AX transmission in the meantime... If anybody has one they want to part with, PM me!

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You bringing the pooch to Bobrocks?
Im not bringing the dog to BobRocks, I dont want her to shit all over everything. Might bring the 1:4 CJ roller for you guys to check out though, I want to see it next to a 1:6 GI Joe Jeep.



Just a random reference shot.


Here are the molds I made for the hood and cowl. The blue tape under the lexan on the cowl mold is some filler for my fawk up of removing too much material on the front radius...

Basically I cut the molds to exact size and cut the lexan with extra. After forming the lexan over the mold, I use a band saw & disc sander to remove the excess lexan and finish the panel to size(using the wooden mold as a template).



And here are my first 3 body panels together with a standard size bic lighter for size reference. The dark spots in the corner of the cowl piece are lumpy high spots from the blue tape, that I sanded down after foming.

Next is bend some more brake line to create the framework for these body panels. -Brian
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:11 PM   #20
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wow looks great, nice chassis/running gear setup I like it, body start looks top notch aswell, cant wait to see it more complete, with the clear acrylic pannels you could paint the inside silver and if you were to scratch the paint it would reveal the "steel"
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