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Old 06-07-2011, 08:08 PM   #41
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Tommy,

To plug the holes in my Willys body I put a strip of packing tape over the outside of the hole, and then fill the hole from the inside with quick set JB weld. Once it is firm I peel off the tape from the outside and you have a nice smooth filled hole. So far the results have been perfect. Much easier than fitting a plug into the hole and gluing it in place.

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Old 06-07-2011, 08:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Tommy,

To plug the holes in my Willys body I put a strip of packing tape over the outside of the hole, and then fill the hole from the inside with quick set JB weld. Once it is firm I peel off the tape from the outside and you have a nice smooth filled hole. So far the results have been perfect. Much easier than fitting a plug into the hole and gluing it in place.

Fastball
nice one ...quick and simple
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:30 PM   #43
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Great idea, Fastball! Simple and easy. I like it!
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:13 AM   #44
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Since I want a chassis mounted servo I had to swap around my motor/trans to make room for it. So yesterday I flipped the trans input shaft and moved the motor to the passenger side which required all new mounting holes for the tranny. Now I should have room for the servo on the driver's side of the engine bay. I also removed the slipper so I gained a bit more room with that.

I ordered up a fan from RCP and will cut out the radiator area behind the grill for it. I'll likely cover it with some fine mesh, but we'll see how it looks first. It may be fine without it?

I also tore down my front axle and installed an RCP locker and Axial gears and the WK CVDs. Everything went together really nicely! The rear axle will also get RCP/Axial internals. Eventually I may overdrive/underdrive it, but that doesn't need to happen just yet. I've got bigger fish to fry like getting the suspension sorted out, the steering servo installed, etc. I'm going to see if I can get it ready for a test run by the end of the weekend.

No pics yet, but there's really not much to see yet. I hope for that to change soon.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:18 AM   #45
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1 week till rock the lake. do work son!
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:19 AM   #46
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1 week till rock the lake. do work son!
LOL! I'm tryin', boss! I'm tryin'! I also picked up some new wheels for it. Nothing fancy, but they'll fit the style of the rig much better than my CAC's. I also decided that I'll run the 2.2 Swampers. I think the Baja Claws are just going to be too tall and won't look right.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:20 AM   #47
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use a fine mesh grill ....we've lost a couple fans to a stick thru the radiator
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:36 PM   #48
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use a fine mesh grill ....we've lost a couple fans to a stick thru the radiator
now that's too scale for me!
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:02 PM   #49
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In between working on rebuilding the front axle on my 1:1 Jeep, I had some time to play around with my 1/6 Jeep. First, I got the fan in from RCP. Wow, talk about fast shipping!! With some clearancing and the help of a holesaw, we now have this (with mock up hardware):


I'll add some screen mesh in front of the fan.


Rear suspension is mocked up now. I either reinforce the framerails so they don't get pinched or I'll just use shorter hardware and only go through the inner wall. I don't really like the axle swing of a semi-triangulated setup so I may end up making it a three or four link with a track bar, but this will work for now. Still undecided about the front. I also need to figure out the best way to adapt my MIP driveshafts to the outputs of the the Disruptor t-case. The MIP's want a 5mm flat outputs, not the drilled outputs. Suggestions?
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:29 PM   #50
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Damn Tommy its starting to come together, looks like fun. So much fun I picked one up. I didn't get the same one you did, mine doesn't have the plastic frame rails, I guess I will make my own chassis. Anyways, I will not be getting to this jeep anytime soon.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4/IMAG0756.jpg

Can't wait to see some video of this badboy rolling.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:15 AM   #51
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you can connect the top links to the same mounting spot as the bottom links.
mine was set just like yours at first...the top links bind a little when turned up like that.

like this:



fan looks great!!!!!
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:50 PM   #52
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Damn Tommy its starting to come together, looks like fun. So much fun I picked one up. I didn't get the same one you did, mine doesn't have the plastic frame rails, I guess I will make my own chassis. Anyways, I will not be getting to this jeep anytime soon.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4/IMAG0756.jpg

Can't wait to see some video of this badboy rolling.
Sweet, another convert!

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you can connect the top links to the same mounting spot as the bottom links.
mine was set just like yours at first...the top links bind a little when turned up like that.

fan looks great!!!!!
Thanks for the info. So far it seems to have enough articulation, but it's certainly easy enough to change! Always nice to have options...


I have a question about driveshafts. My Disruptor has round input/output shafts with a hole drilled through them. My transmission and axles run standard Axial stuff with a 5mm shaft with a flat. I was planning on running MIP shafts throughout, but am not sure how to attach the MIPs to the Disruptor. Is there a set screw with a dowel that would adapt these two? Maybe a screw something like this:
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:00 PM   #53
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Tamiya had a 3mm set screw like that wiith the long pole on it. The MIP's are 4mm aren't they?
You could always grind a flat in the disruptor too
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:04 PM   #54
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Tamiya had a 3mm set screw like that wiith the long pole on it. The MIP's are 4mm aren't they?
You could always grind a flat in the disruptor too
Yeah, I think they're 4mm, but I'm not positive. I thought about grinding a flat on the Disruptor's shafts, but it wouldn't leave much material at all. So I'm hoping not to modify them if I don't have to.
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:18 PM   #55
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yep traxxas 3mm set screw pins. they come with the traxxas plastic yokes we used in the old days.
ive got a million of them its what i prefer to use on all my axle pinions for attaching the DS's
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJJ77&P=ML

edit i miss read which part you were saying was 4mm, these wont work for you mip if there 4mm threads

Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 06-13-2011 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:46 PM   #56
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Actually, I don't know what size the screw is in the MIPs. I'll try to check it out tonight...
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:11 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Actually, I don't know what size the screw is in the MIPs. I'll try to check it out tonight...
Yep, MIP's use a 4mm set screw. Any options for this setup?
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:39 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Sweet, another convert!



Thanks for the info. So far it seems to have enough articulation, but it's certainly easy enough to change! Always nice to have options...


I have a question about driveshafts. My Disruptor has round input/output shafts with a hole drilled through them. My transmission and axles run standard Axial stuff with a 5mm shaft with a flat. I was planning on running MIP shafts throughout, but am not sure how to attach the MIPs to the Disruptor. Is there a set screw with a dowel that would adapt these two? Maybe a screw something like this:
Rich has run the same traxxas driveshafts (plastic) for over 300 hours
with no failures
I've run MIP metal driveshafts ... drilled-out at the axles (for WK 6mm)
mine have worn and have some movement but are still working!

I think I will replace mine with the traxxas ...you can put different size ends on the driveshaft (they make 5mm & 6mm)
just drill a hole, for the set screw, in the steel Axial output shaft,
the WK are drilled-out already, use the long set screw
it passes thru the whole assembly. Bullet proof

drill-out the traxxas yokes for the disruptor

here's the parts list:
4951X traxxas shafts
4928X traxxas yokes
4927X traxxas yokes
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:08 PM   #59
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LOL! Yeah, I saw your post in KMS' thread, but I already have the MIP stuff so I'd like to stick with it. But it looks like the set screws from those yolk kits may work for me!
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:15 PM   #60
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Got some RC4WD 2.2 stamped steel wheels today. Wow, they don't come anywhere near clamping together when using a Pro-Line Swamper. I doubt they'd clamp on an RC4WD wheel, either. Right now, I've got about a 1/4"-3/8" gap between the inner and outer rim halves! Pics later...
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