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Old 09-01-2011, 10:06 AM   #1
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Default Hey, look. Another jeep!

This is my first attempt at a build thread, so please keep your expectations low.
I've been wanting to build one of these for a couple of years now, and recently found this one, too good to pass up.




My workspace the last year has been pretty challenging, to say the least. So this should be an interesting build with limited room/funding I actually do have.




Anyway, started surgery and moved the bumper up, need to beef it all up with aluminum and fill gaps.






I really, REALLY want to put Wraith axles under this thing. And I think it might work with 2.2 Steelies (narrow offset)
What do you guys think?
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:26 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokennib View Post
I really, REALLY want to put Wraith axles under this thing. And I think it might work with 2.2 Steelies (narrow offset)
What do you guys think?
Sweet, you got the "Rat Patrol" edition (anyone remember that show on TV?) That will be a good start. If you could find a windshield it would'nt be hard to add it. Did you get all the jerry cans too? (6 total I think? 4 on the hood 2 in back)

I've been doing axle research as well.

Wraith axles were my first thought, since I knew Axial had made them substantially wider than SCX-10's. Something I read a week or so ago made me think they'd be too wide, although I forget what it was or where I saw it (ZoSo?) Wheels with a lot of backspacing may alleviate this some (I never even thought of this) but that narrows your wheel choices.

I think my LHS has a Wraith on display, if I get a chance I'll do some measuring.

The other route I was thinking was the "AXR-10" axles - Longer Beef Toobs
But again I'm not 100% on how to approach this yet. The "shopping list" that Bigski was kind enough to put together for me uses aftermarket Wheely King parts (STRC) with a mix of XR-10 and AX-10 parts. And subsequent shopping has given me the impression that the Wheely King/Crawler King is obsolete, nobody is really stocking any parts for them anymore...

I'll be watching...

Last edited by Big Mike; 09-01-2011 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:20 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Big Mike View Post
Sweet, you got the "Rat Patrol" edition (anyone remember that show on TV?) That will be a good start. If you could find a windshield it would'nt be hard to add it. Did you get all the jerry cans too? (6 total I think? 4 on the hood 2 in back)

I've been doing axle research as well.

Wraith axles were my first thought, since I knew Axial had made them substantially wider than SCX-10's. Something I read a week or so ago made me think they'd be too wide, although I forget what it was or where I saw it (ZoSo?) Wheels with a lot of backspacing may alleviate this some (I never even thought of this) but that narrows your wheel choices.

I think my LHS has a Wraith on display, if I get a chance I'll do some measuring.

The other route I was thinking was the "AXR-10" axles - Longer Beef Toobs
But again I'm not 100% on how to approach this yet. The "shopping list" that Bigski was kind enough to put together for me uses aftermarket Wheely King parts (STRC) with a mix of XR-10 and AX-10 parts. And subsequent shopping has given me the impression that the Wheely King/Crawler King is obsolete, nobody is really stocking any parts for them anymore...

I'll be watching...
Hell yeah, RAT PATROL! Been watching the series on Netflix over the last couple of weeks... I also did a little research on the production model Jeep this thing is based after... Kinda interesting. http://www.olive-drab.com/od_mvg_www_jeeps_mbgpw.php3

Unfortunately, I didn't get any of the jerry cans, windshield, or even a steering wheel with this one, it's pretty bare bones. But I was thinking of making my own steering wheel anyway, and I'm sure I can find a windshield somewhere.
I found a good example of a SAS (special air service) Jeep. (1/6 scale) for a little inspiration...
http://www.onesixthwarriors.com/foru...age-heavy.html

As for axles, I need to take it down to a hobby shop and plop it down on a wraith to see how things really line up. I am interested in the AXR10 option myself, makes more sense and i can still run a panard bar up front like my SCX10. A little easier on the wallet too, XR10 parts are a little cheaper nowadays. My only concern is 1) If I can still get the longer tubes. 2) As for the STRC straight axle "kit" RCP was out of stock, but I found a couple of other sites that says they have them, but at 50 bucks. which is a little too steep for this poor boy. (at the moment) plus, I remember a few years ago STRC made a Stainless steel axle for the AX10, and they sucked. Really sucked. One rollover and the things bent, you could grab the tire and bend it back by hand, which was a little disturbing. Those look like they are stainless steel. I really hope I'm wrong. I'm sure there are workarounds to all this stuff.

Last edited by brokennib; 09-02-2011 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:35 AM   #4
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I have two fuel cans from my Willys build ,Do you want them ,make offer
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by brokennib View Post
Unfortunately, I didn't get any of the jerry cans, windshield, or even a steering wheel with this one, it's pretty bare bones. But I was thinking of making my own steering wheel anyway, and I'm sure I can find a windshield somewhere.
The Rat Patrol Jeep was not equipped with a windshield (4 of the jerry cans would stack on the hood, see where the "dirt" paint ends, and the slots for the plastic straps to go?) Doesn't mean you can't add one on.

And making a stouter steering assembly is pretty much par for the course with these builds, so no wheel is not an issue. I may use the wheel itself, but I plan on making a new shaft and mounting bracket for it.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by brokennib View Post
I am interested in the AXR10 option myself, makes more sense and i can still run a panard bar up front like my SCX10. A little easier on the wallet too, XR10 parts are a little cheaper nowadays. My only concern is 1) If I can still get the longer tubes. 2) As for the STRC straight axle "kit" RCP was out of stock, but I found a couple of other sites that says they have them, but at 50 bucks. which is a little too steep for this poor boy. (at the moment) plus, I remember a few years ago STRC made a Stainless steel axle for the AX10, and they sucked. Really sucked. One rollover and the things bent, you could grab the tire and bend it back by hand, which was a little disturbing. Those look like they are stainless steel. I really hope I'm wrong. I'm sure there are workarounds to all this stuff.

The STRC rear axle kit does have stainless steel axle shafts, but they seem to be plenty strong. I've rolled my Jeep, had the rear tires completely bound up and still tried to throttle my way out of it, pulled the club pull sled w/ 10#'s in it, ect.. generally, any kind of abuse that you can dream of, I've done it to these axles and the WK axles that I used to run.

AS for getting the WK rear axle kit, send ZoSo a PM, he will get them in a day. I guess the initial stock order he made has been depleted but he will get these for you.

I'm starting to look at using XR-10 axle shafts, but you would need to purchase (2) kits to get the correct length axle shafts. If you have someone that can braze for you, the easiest and cheapest way would be to lengthen some stock SCX-10 axle shafts but that isn't an option for some folks.

Good luck w/ what ever axle option that you choose, feel free to PM w/ questions at any time, I'll be glad to help the best that I can.
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:39 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BigSki View Post
The STRC rear axle kit does have stainless steel axle shafts, but they seem to be plenty strong. I've rolled my Jeep, had the rear tires completely bound up and still tried to throttle my way out of it, pulled the club pull sled w/ 10#'s in it, ect.. generally, any kind of abuse that you can dream of, I've done it to these axles and the WK axles that I used to run.

AS for getting the WK rear axle kit, send ZoSo a PM, he will get them in a day. I guess the initial stock order he made has been depleted but he will get these for you.

I'm starting to look at using XR-10 axle shafts, but you would need to purchase (2) kits to get the correct length axle shafts. If you have someone that can braze for you, the easiest and cheapest way would be to lengthen some stock SCX-10 axle shafts but that isn't an option for some folks.

Good luck w/ what ever axle option that you choose, feel free to PM w/ questions at any time, I'll be glad to help the best that I can.
The brazing part is not the problem, it's the jigging it up so it's dead-straight part that worries me. I would think that Safety Silv 45 would be plenty strong provided that you machine the proper interface into the axle shafts.

Now, if you create the ability to make the shafts the exact length you need to fit under the Jeep body, it seems like making the rest certainly wouldn't be impossible, seein's how I have a mini lathe in the shop. I'm gonna break down my SCX-10 tonite and open up the axles. Let's study this problem in-depth.

Hopefully:
1- determine axle length needed - make new axles.
2- make internal tubes to match new axle length.
3- for front, make a pair of "collars" to fill the gap in between the housing and the "C".
4- for the rear, make a pair of lockouts.

Sounds easy in theory anyway...

Last edited by Big Mike; 09-02-2011 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 02:18 PM   #8
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That's the same model Willys ZoSo and I started out with. Looks like all three of us were missing the steering wheel too.
I think I'm the only one to make and use my own leaf springs though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mike View Post
The brazing part.... blah, blah, blah.... blah, blah, blah....

Sounds easy in theory anyway...

Who's build thread is this?











































lol j/k!!!!
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:19 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BigSki View Post
The STRC rear axle kit does have stainless steel axle shafts, but they seem to be plenty strong. I've rolled my Jeep, had the rear tires completely bound up and still tried to throttle my way out of it, pulled the club pull sled w/ 10#'s in it, ect.. generally, any kind of abuse that you can dream of, I've done it to these axles and the WK axles that I used to run.

AS for getting the WK rear axle kit, send ZoSo a PM, he will get them in a day. I guess the initial stock order he made has been depleted but he will get these for you.

I'm starting to look at using XR-10 axle shafts, but you would need to purchase (2) kits to get the correct length axle shafts. If you have someone that can braze for you, the easiest and cheapest way would be to lengthen some stock SCX-10 axle shafts but that isn't an option for some folks.

Good luck w/ what ever axle option that you choose, feel free to PM w/ questions at any time, I'll be glad to help the best that I can.
I just got back from the hobby shop, had to check out the Wraith axles. Yup, you guys were right, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too wide. You know, the Wraith is a cool truck and all that, but I don't know why it has to be 2 miles wide. It's as if it has a permanent set of training wheels.

I ordered a set of tubes this morning from Casey, so it looks like I'm going the AXR10 route.
I could order 2 sets of XR10 axles, but then I'm still out 35-40 bucks. Might as well get the WK axles, I think your right about the strength, we werent running toobs back then, so I think there was a lot more flex, especially with all that lead we had in the tires. I'll send ZoSo a pm.

I really appreciate all this help guys
And I haven't even really thought about the drivetrain yet....

Last edited by brokennib; 09-02-2011 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mike View Post
The brazing part is not the problem, it's the jigging it up so it's dead-straight part that worries me. I would think that Safety Silv 45 would be plenty strong provided that you machine the proper interface into the axle shafts.

Now, if you create the ability to make the shafts the exact length you need to fit under the Jeep body, it seems like making the rest certainly wouldn't be impossible, seein's how I have a mini lathe in the shop. I'm gonna break down my SCX-10 tonite and open up the axles. Let's study this problem in-depth.

Hopefully:
1- determine axle length needed - make new axles.
2- make internal tubes to match new axle length.
3- for front, make a pair of "collars" to fill the gap in between the housing and the "C".
4- for the rear, make a pair of lockouts.

Sounds easy in theory anyway...
I'm not a machinist, but it seems as though there might not be too many steps to make an axle, could be doable.
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:30 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by DonsATV View Post
That's the same model Willys ZoSo and I started out with. Looks like all three of us were missing the steering wheel too.
I think I'm the only one to make and use my own leaf springs though.





Who's build thread is this?

lol j/k!!!!
It's all good with me Yeah, mine had no wheel, but it did still have the steering colum, so at least I have a clue as to how long it has to be when I go fab it up. I just have to figure out the diameter of the steering wheel.

Last edited by brokennib; 09-02-2011 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:33 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by brokennib View Post
I just have to figure out the diameter of the steering wheel.
The dia of the steering on my Hasbro jeep is 65mm(just over 2.5 inches)
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:32 PM   #13
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Little update....
Progress is slow, but it is progressing a little bit at a time... I'm also lurking around and picking up a lot if info. I want to thank you guys for the advice so far.
Anyhoo, I did manage to get a set of these longer beef toobs, and i have some parts coming in for the axles.


Proceeded to fills holes in the hood and filled in the machine-gun mount




Put the floorpan in the back and beefed up the frame.




As for the instrument cluster behind the dash, how did you guys get that out? (or did anybody bother?) tried popping it out with a screwdriver, but I dont want to tear up the dash.


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Old 09-14-2011, 02:58 PM   #14
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Has someone glued the dash panel in place?? Mine stayed put with the screws removed, but a gentle pry with a small screwdriver popped it right off. I'm assuming you gave it a little effort, enough to be afraid of wrecking it?
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:19 PM   #15
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Yup, the panel should just pop off after the screws are removed. Try and push in on the face of the speedo as you pry up. They kinda snap in a bit.

Build is looking good so far. Always nice to see another old Jeep come to life.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:21 AM   #16
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Yeah I just got the dash panel off last night, no damage, just needed a bigger screwdriver.
Put a coat of red primer on the hood to spot areas I still need to sand out and to give this thing a little color.






A few parts came in yesterday, so now I can start working on the axles. I want to order the transfer case so I can start mounting it into the frame, but I'm on the fence as to which one too get.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:54 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by brokennib View Post
I want to order the transfer case so I can start mounting it into the frame, but I'm on the fence as to which one too get.
Considering price, reliability and conformity to this particular project, RC4WD's Disruptor is the way to go.

I saw the Killer transfer case on RC4WD and said to myself "damn, looks almost exactly like an Atlas". But Bigski told me he killed one in one day.

There's also GCM. Their stuff is expensive, but very high quality...

EDIT: I forgot how tanked our dollar is (GCM is Canadian) Their transfer case is $66 on their site, and our dollar is worth what Canada's is right now. Not as bad as I thought...

Last edited by Big Mike; 09-15-2011 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:42 AM   #18
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X2 on the Disrupter T-case. Its bomb proof and gives you gear reduction. The GCM case is the next best choice if you can use a 1:1 ratio.

The weak link in the Killer T-case is the tiny idler gear and the stupid small bearings it uses. This is where mine failed, the bearing blew apart and the tiny balls got jammed into the teeth of the gears, destroying everything. I think these Jeeps are just too heavy for that little T-case.
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:40 PM   #19
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the disruptor fits like it was made for it
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:18 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Big Mike View Post
Considering price, reliability and conformity to this particular project, RC4WD's Disruptor is the way to go.

I saw the Killer transfer case on RC4WD and said to myself "damn, looks almost exactly like an Atlas". But Bigski told me he killed one in one day.

There's also GCM. Their stuff is expensive, but very high quality...

EDIT: I forgot how tanked our dollar is (GCM is Canadian) Their transfer case is $66 on their site, and our dollar is worth what Canada's is right now. Not as bad as I thought...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSki View Post
X2 on the Disrupter T-case. Its bomb proof and gives you gear reduction. The GCM case is the next best choice if you can use a 1:1 ratio.

The weak link in the Killer T-case is the tiny idler gear and the stupid small bearings it uses. This is where mine failed, the bearing blew apart and the tiny balls got jammed into the teeth of the gears, destroying everything. I think these Jeeps are just too heavy for that little T-case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoSo View Post
the disruptor fits like it was made for it
Yeah, RPP has the GCM case for 64 bucks, I was leaning towards this one "cause it looks like they use pinion gears, which make repair/replacement a little easier, also the 1:1 ratio might work out, because I still want to maintain a little wheel speed when I need it. (?) Do you guys still get good wheel speed with a Disrupter and an Axial tranny? Is it even an issue? What ratio Disrupter do you guys use? .75:1 or 2.18:1 ?
I also like the Disrupter, the shafts are drilled, I dont have to worry about mounting, and the price is better. As long as the gears hold up.
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