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Old 09-02-2013, 01:13 PM   #81
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Hmmmm, how do I put holes into this? And do it easily...
I got it! Grab my trusty suppressed bolt gun and shoot some holes into it !!!



POP!!!


Nice work !!! Now I've got to make a bunch more.


There... finally done. I think I made enough of them for the project.

Last edited by Fumbles; 09-02-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #82
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I need to get me one of them bowie knifes they can do anything! Awesome build.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:20 PM   #83
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Well - found some metal bars that I figured might work out as a frame so I've gotta cut one to see how it might fit.


Whack!
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:24 PM   #84
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Fits front to back but looks like I've got to do something to work around the rear wheel wells though...


Hmmmmm..... I like the idea of a rear bumper at this location but I've gotta come up with a way to follow the body with the chassis so that I can get travel on the rear suspension...



Last edited by Fumbles; 09-03-2013 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:44 PM   #85
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Does this GI have a name ??? He's pretty handy...
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:46 PM   #86
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Default Re: Behind Enemy Lines

Sister up another piece of square tube to dip into the chassis/body.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:57 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Postclanker View Post
Does this GI have a name ??? He's pretty handy...
I was thinking of "Sarge" but I guess a naming contest is in order?



Quote:
Originally Posted by The Crawl Space View Post
Sister up another piece of square tube to dip into the chassis/body.
I was hoping to get it bent or welded to make that turn upwards along the floor and follow it to the rear of the body to allow something to attach a bumper to but I don't have a Tig.
One thought was to cut it off short where it separates from the body pan at the rear area and attach it flush to the floor of the body, then I can attach my links to the end of the metal frame rails and the shocks to the inner wheel wells thereby eliminating anything in the rear area... downside is that there is not a solid mount for the bumper.
I ordered some 1/2" steel square tubing (as no one makes 1/2" x 3/8") but it was too large for scale and damn heavy! I'd like to do a C channel type of frame but can't really manufacturer it myself. Steel would be optimal as I can Mig stuff onto it like trans & engine mounts. I can't really work with aluminum other than cutting it to length & drill/tap it...

Last edited by Fumbles; 09-04-2013 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:21 AM   #88
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Default Re: Behind Enemy Lines

this is awesome
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:27 AM   #89
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Time to give myself a haircut. Just swipe the 'ol Bowie knife over my scalp and get rid of some of that stubble.


Then shave off some of the 3 day growth going on...


CAUSE THAT'S WHAT REAL MEN DO....... THEY SHAVE WITH A BOWIE KNIFE !!!

Last edited by Fumbles; 09-05-2013 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:30 AM   #90
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Depending on whats available, if you can get 1/2" x 3/4" square tube steel or aluminum you can rip it in have and get c channel stock which you could bend and hammer at least a small "whoop" in it kind of like the SCX10 chassis rails.

I used 1/4" x 1/4" solid aluminum square stock on the Rustbusket, bent easily and braced with aluminum tube tapped to take M3 hardware.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:57 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by The Crawl Space View Post
Depending on whats available, if you can get 1/2" x 3/4" square tube steel or aluminum you can rip it in have and get c channel stock which you could bend and hammer at least a small "whoop" in it kind of like the SCX10 chassis rails.

I used 1/4" x 1/4" solid aluminum square stock on the Rustbusket, bent easily and braced with aluminum tube tapped to take M3 hardware.
The 1/2 x 3/8 " aluminum barstock I have is brutally strong. No way I could bend it unless I use a bulldozer. What I'd like to do is chop it, turn the frame upwards to cut through the floorboard on a 45 degree angle then run it flat along the rear portion then square it off 90 degrees to bring it back down to attach a bumper. I'd have to cut through the floorboard behind the seats to allow the rails to make that angle but I'd cover it with styrene and mucho weaponry inside the jeep anyway.
I've put some feelers out there with some of the boards chassis builders but no one's responded so I'll just solve it myself. I've got some rectangular shaped steel tube that I could rip in half to make C channels, chop saw it in places & Mig the frame up. I'd like to use the aluminum but don't have a Tig...
Maybe go find one on Craigslist. (My wife isn't reading this... right?)
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:06 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by RunsWithScissors View Post
The 1/2 x 3/8 " aluminum barstock I have is brutally strong. No way I could bend it unless I use a bulldozer. What I'd like to do is chop it, turn the frame upwards to cut through the floorboard on a 45 degree angle then run it flat along the rear portion then square it off 90 degrees to bring it back down to attach a bumper. I'd have to cut through the floorboard behind the seats to allow the rails to make that angle but I'd cover it with styrene and mucho weaponry inside the jeep anyway.
I've put some feelers out there with some of the boards chassis builders but no one's responded so I'll just solve it myself. I've got some rectangular shaped steel tube that I could rip in half to make C channels, chop saw it in places & Mig the frame up. I'd like to use the aluminum but don't have a Tig...
Maybe go find one on Craigslist. (My wife isn't reading this... right?)

Come on cupcake you're a big guy, put it in a vise and crank on it!

If you use the 1/4" x 1/4" aluminum square stock you don't need a Tig.
I've bent pu a couple chassis' with it all by hand with just a vise, cross braced and you're good to go

Last edited by The Crawl Space; 09-05-2013 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:19 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by The Crawl Space View Post
Come on cupcake you're a big guy, put it in a vise and crank on it!

If you use the 1/4" x 1/4" aluminum square stock you don't need a Tig.
I've bent pu a couple chassis' with it all by hand with just a vise, cross braced and you're good to go

LOL! Dude - I already tried that. The workbench tipped up off it's legs and it's a heavy table. I had nearly 6 feet of breaker bar on it.
I'll figure something out soon. I'll be home on Friday so I'll get back on it this weekend. There's a muscle car fabricator nearby so I'm going to drop by his house and see what he might have in his shop that I can use to whack the frame into submission... (edit: better word choice... not whack but work)

Last edited by Fumbles; 09-05-2013 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:13 AM   #94
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Will hear ruin the integrity of the metal?

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 4
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:23 PM   #95
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Default Re: Behind Enemy Lines

How about 'ole Sarge man-handles that cut off tool and makes recesses in the floor board for the frame to sit flush with the rest of the body??
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:47 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by BigSki View Post
How about 'ole Sarge man-handles that cut off tool and makes recesses in the floor board for the frame to sit flush with the rest of the body??
Unfortunately the front portion the frame sits flush against the body but it steps up at the rear section. If I cut into the front portion of the body to allow the rail to be flush at the rear portion then the rails will stick way up into the floorboard at his feet and into the engine compartment. I really like how it sits flush at the front as it just slid into the front bumper area like it was meant to fit... but the rear needs some work.

Sarge told me that he could do it with his fingers if I gave him the green light... says he's pissed at it. I told him to save his anger for the Jerries...
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:32 PM   #97
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I see what you mean, I looked closer at the pics and realized that your body is structured differently from the Hasbro bodies. I actually like the way your body has the front section of the "chassis" molded into the main body, it will be Uber sturdy once you get those frames rails in there.

Any way to get a piece of flat bar stock and use it as a filler between the body and frame rails? That would give Sarge a sturdy chunk of real-estate to bolt things to if he needs it.


Can I offer a suggestion to you in regards to chassis construction?

Last edited by BigSki; 09-05-2013 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:41 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by BigSki View Post
I see what you mean, I looked closer at the pics and realized that your body is structured differently from the Hasbro bodies. I actually like the way your body has the front section of the "chassis" molded into the main body, it will be Uber sturdy once you get those frames rails in there.

Any way to get a piece of flat bar stock and use it as a filler between the body and frame rails? That would give Sarge a sturdy chunk of real-estate to bolt things to if he needs it.


Can I offer a suggestion to you in regards to chassis construction?

ABSOLUTELY! I'm always open to suggestions and critique. Never done one of these before and I'm definately not a fabricator so it's a steep learning curve. I was away from a computer for a while...sorry.

I used to have a GI Joe body (wish I'd have kept it) but the 21st Century body is a bit different and longer/wider overall. I'll probably do a GI Joe jeep after this one so I'm always looking for input!
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #99
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Default Re: Behind Enemy Lines

I'v read through the posts about the frame problem and I think I understand what your trying to do. My metal working experience leads me to think you could either cut the rails a little bit past the drop off and have a second piece cut to fit down in the recessed area the bolt them together with support plates on either side as illustrated below. Or drill a clearance hole through the top of one and tap the other and bolt them together to eliminate the need and sight of a support plate on the side.


Last edited by Metal Militia; 09-06-2013 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:13 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metal Militia View Post
I'v read through the posts about the frame problem and I think I understand what your trying to do. My metal working experience leads me to think you could either cut the rails a little bit past the drop off and have a second piece cut to fit down in the recessed area the bolt them together with support plates on either side as illustrated below. Or drill a clearance hole through the top of one and tap the other and bolt them together to eliminate the need and sight of a support plate on the side.

That's one solution, sistering up a piece to follow the body line.
I'm really wanting to cut the rail at an angle, run it at a 45 degree angle or so then follow the body line again to the rear and drop it down to allow a bumper attachment point. Since there is no bumper now that is kind of what I'm leaning towards. Sistering up a piece like this is what I'll have to do if I can't get some Tig welding done here locally.
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