New Project (for me)

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Trailer pics, still want to come up with a tent or pop-up for it.

Looks good. Tires look like they were made for it. I vote for that color on the Jeep.

I tried to get/pay Cirkus to make me one for my trailer but he never responded Scale rooftop tent All the ones i looked on over the years on ebay were too big. I only have hand sewing skills and don't have machine sewing skills so i never attempted.

[Mike Flea]

Ya, that's what color I was thinkin' too, and add some camo colors to it. The camo will hide some of the blemishes.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Ya, that's what color I was thinkin' too, and add some camo colors to it. The camo will hide some of the blemishes.

I can't remember what mag i saw it in but a flat fender was painted in the new digital camo and IMO it looked really good bringing an old skool machine with a new tech look.

[Mike Flea]

Washed, sanded, roughed up the current paint, taped off what I didn't want painted, and sprayed grey primer on the Jeep and trailer yesterday afternoon. Shot them with a satin Leafy Green this morning. Still need to do the camo, maybe this afternoon, depending on the humidity. Need to pick up some Dullcoat for the final.

Still have the metalwork to do yet for the bumpers, re-build shocks, and paint the inner front fenderwells. Humidity levels have been high this weekend, so too hot to work in the garage.

[Mike Flea]

Some pics of the latest paint job, and of the new pintle on the rear bumper.

Kudos to BigSki and tklatti for giving me the idea, from their builds, for the pintle, and spare tire and jerry can mounts. I'll be starting those tomorrow. Or, at the very least, make all the mounts, and take them to a friends house, so he can weld them on.

I put the new Savox SA-1231S servo on this afternoon, and realized it's 3/8" deeper than the Hi-Tec 645mg, so it's going to hit a 91mm link that I had used for a frame cross brace. After I get the new front bumper on, I may be able to remove it.

The snap clip must be made of pot metal or straight zinc, because originally I was going to braze it to the bumper, until it ended up in a puddle on the garage floor. So #2 got ground down on the end, and fit through a drilled hole in the bumper. Then I drilled a 1/16 hole in the shaft and put a cotter pin through to hold it to the bumper, and yes it swivels.

[cmbscx10]

Paint came out good. I would throw a little more brown on the back of the seats and the dash area to break up the Green.

The trailer paint looks perfect.

What does the Snap Clip look like from the outside? Hard to envision.

[Mike Flea]

I'll have to get another pic tomorrow, the one I have, when I was uploading, said it was too big, and I don't know how to resize. Last time I tried resizing a pic, it got lost in the nether reaches of my computer, lol.

Ok, I think I got it narrowed down to the camera settings, I guess it helps to read the owners manual once in a while, I'm still living in the dark ages, lol. I'll shoot it again tomorrow.

[TacoCrawler]

Is that Barbie or Butch driving Joe around ?

find a Barbie wig yet ?! Lol

The corner handles on your trailer signify it as an M100
...that's cool...
But probably not correct for that earlier Jeep body.

I'm not a fan of camo paint... nor purple...
As I feel a civilian, single paint color theme looks mo' better.
But that's just my opinion.

If it must be military looking...
then a simple ODG brings more realism for that era.
Some painted on white stars completes the look.

What are those headlight buckets from ?
And need they protrude that far into the engine bay ?

Yeah... I'm always the critic. Lol
Even more critical of myself.
So that's probably why I'm not done with my build yet. :doh:

~ tho' I doubt I'll spend as much time/effort on those little details ~

Enjoy following... keep it up
makes your build more entertaining

^ ~ and an excuse for neglecting my own project ~

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

I'll have to get another pic tomorrow, the one I have, when I was uploading, said it was too big, and I don't know how to resize. Last time I tried resizing a pic, it got lost in the nether reaches of my computer, lol.

Ok, I think I got it narrowed down to the camera settings, I guess it helps to read the owners manual once in a while, I'm still living in the dark ages, lol. I'll shoot it again tomorrow.

You can load the pic into Paintshop, use the 're-size' feature then save it as a .jpeg file, then upload as normal.

[Mike Flea]

Those headlights are actually battery powered clip-on book lights that I picked up from the dollar store and epoxied in place. There's a push button switch on the back of each.

And the missing hitch pic:

[cmbscx10]

^ Looks good Mike. I now see how it will work. Bumper looks good too. OD green for color IMO.

[Mike Flea]

Still working on the metalwork for the back bumper, got all the pieces cut for the spare tire and jerry can mount, a buddy is fashioning a steel jerry can holder for me. Got the new front bumper done, cut the handle off a catering tray holder for the grill guard, and using more of that same tray holder for a stinger and bracing, all 1/8 steel rod.

Made some new inner front fenders from cool whip containers.

And I would rather tear down and rebuild the whole Jeep every weekend than to rebuild shocks, lol. What a pain! When I dumped the old oil out, this blue/black crud came out. Got them rebuilt this evening, and put in fresh, clean 40wt, I'm still going to run the soft gray Axial springs. Sprayed down the outside of the aluminum bodies with brake clean, and the shocks and inner fenders will get a fresh coat of flat black tomorrow.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

and put in fresh, clean 40wt, I'm still going to run the soft gray Axial springs.

Hey Mike...

why 40wt ?
seems kinda thick if using a softer spring rate.

Are you sure that the shocks will rebound quickly enough and settle level
after compression/static extension ?

I use a different shock... so maybe that's the diff.
ie: 100mm traxxas Ultra BB's

I run 25wt up front and 20wt out back (3 hole piston)
and my chassis weighs in around 10 - 12 lbs.

Granted that's my 10th scale...
But I would think an 1/6 scale crawler would work better
with not having too thick of oil viscosity. (if smooth fluid articulation is goal)
...say maybe a 35wt/Fr and 30wt/Rr ? (3 hole pist)
^ granted the oil viscosity would be dependent on how large those holes are in the piston(s) ?

I'm using the Losi 4" 1.8 rated C spring(s).
My rig sits static squat about 50/50 % (compr/extn)

For a 1/6 scale and it's additional weight...
I'd think a higher spring rate may be better...
2.0 - 2.4 ? (especially if using thicker oil viscosity)
But spring rate selection is still dependent on over-all chassis weight.

Are you bashing more so then crawling ?

Why would you use brake cleaner to clean your shock bodies up with ?
You realize brake cleaner and most plastics don't mix well ?
^ (that includes the inner seals/o-rings)

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Hey Mike...

why 40wt ?
seems kinda thick if using a softer spring rate.

Are you sure that the shocks will rebound quickly enough and settle level
after compression/static extension ?

I use a different shock... so maybe that's the diff.
ie: 100mm traxxas Ultra BB's

I run 25wt up front and 20wt out back (3 hole piston)
and my chassis weighs in around 10 - 12 lbs.

Granted that's my 10th scale...
But I would think an 1/6 scale crawler would work better
with not having too thick of oil viscosity. (if smooth fluid articulation is goal)
...say maybe a 35wt/Fr and 30wt/Rr ? (3 hole pist)
^ granted the oil viscosity would be dependent on how large those holes are in the piston(s) ?

I'm using the Losi 4" 1.8 rated C spring(s).
My rig sits static squat about 50/50 % (compr/extn)

For a 1/6 scale and it's additional weight...
I'd think a higher spring rate may be better...
2.0 - 2.4 ? (especially if using thicker oil viscosity)
But spring rate selection is still dependent on over-all chassis weight.

Are you bashing more so then crawling ?

Why would you use brake cleaner to clean your shock bodies up with ?
You realize brake cleaner and most plastics don't mix well ?
^ (that includes the inner seals/o-rings)

My Frankenstein scx-10 uses 30wt and weighs in right around 7lbs, and has real good flex. Not exactly sure what was in the T-Maxx shocks, but it was thin enough to be cooking oil. Using 40wt is an experiment. Actually thought about leaving the springs off, and filling with 70wt, but thought I would try this first.

The T-Maxx shocks have aluminum bodies and caps, so the brake cleaner won't affect them, and they were only sprayed on the outside to get residual oil off, so they could be painted.

Crawling, not bashing. However, I have a broken concrete test pile in the yard, so if it can make it here, it'll make it anywhere.

[Mike Flea]

Some pics on the new cool whip inner fenders, and starter pic of the grill hoop and stinger. I cut some kickers to put between the two.

Grill hoop is the handle from a catering pan holder, and the stinger is made from a corner of the same holder.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Some pics on the new cool whip inner fenders, and starter pic of the grill hoop and stinger. I cut some kickers to put between the two.

I am still paying my friends $5 ea to eat cool whip for me so i can have the containers.

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Grill hoop is the handle from a catering pan holder, and the stinger is made from a corner of the same holder.

What? There is no way that is a catering pan holder. Looks to perfect. Can't believe it wraps the grill like you wanted. Nice find and out of the box thinking.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

I am still paying my friends $5 ea to eat cool whip for me so i can have the containers.



What? There is no way that is a catering pan holder. Looks to perfect. Can't believe it wraps the grill like you wanted. Nice find and out of the box thinking.

You need to have your wife/girlfriend make you a bowl of Jello mixed with cool whip. One cool whip container cut in half will make 2 inner fenders.

I'll get a pic of one, the top bar is the right length to match the top of the hood, but I did have to make the 2 bends on each side, and if you look close enough, you'll see they're not exactly perfect.

[Mike Flea]

Here's a pic of the top handle from the pan frame atop the hood of the Jeep. If you look back at post 115, this is the same piece minus the lower bends, which actually ran straight down to the bottom of the pan frame.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Here's a pic of the top handle from the pan frame atop the hood of the Jeep. If you look back at post 115, this is the same piece minus the lower bends, which actually ran straight down to the bottom of the pan frame.

That looks like a perfect fit in shape and size. Nice find. Looking forward to the final piece.

[Mike Flea]

Got the front bumper, guard, and stinger brazed up yesterday, painted today, and will get a pic up soon.