1/5th scale 6x6 flatbed, 4500 watts, 10s Lipo

[Irishchamp]

I don't think so, I'll check though. wouldn't it not work at all if that were the case?
thanks

Originally Posted by S1NN3R

Is the pin on which the slipper backplate sits broken or missing?

[Irishchamp]

A little update:

[Mike Flea]

is that the exo cage for the cab, or the framework that the cab panels are mounting to? either way, it's going to be wicked!

[S1NN3R]

Originally Posted by Irishchamp

I don't think so, I'll check though. wouldn't it not work at all if that were the case?
thanks

Depends on how tight the slipper backplate is on the shaft, might still move and just slip a bit, might just totally slip and not move at all, or anywhere in between. It was just the first thing I thought of that could cause the nut to back off that quickly.

Or maybe the thicker T-Maxx brake disc is preventing the nut from tightening enough to catch the nylon part, or the nut itself is just old and not grabbing anymore. That kind of power could just be causing slip no matter how tight you have it.

Easy way to non-permanently lock it is to jam nut it, take one standard nut and tighten the slipper where you want it, then strongly tighten a second standard nut onto that. Very unlikely to come lose on it's own that way, but still easily removable when you want to.

[Mike Flea]

The jam nut would work, but if he doesn't have enough thread for the plastic on the locknut to engage the threads, he won't be able to use a jam nut. The only way the locknut would unscrew itself would be if it's the wrong size, like maybe it's SAE thread on a metric shaft?, Just suggestions, not being critical

[Irishchamp]

Well turning diffs around seems to have temporarily solved the issue. It started slipping bad though within a few minutes. I'm thinking that maybe I tightened it down too tight at some point.

Cracks and strange wear marks.

[Irishchamp]

Based on how the size of the cage looks on the truck, I think I'm going to use the current framework as a rollcage for the cab. The plan is to put together a styrene cab to fit inside.

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

is that the exo cage for the cab, or the framework that the cab panels are mounting to? either way, it's going to be wicked!

[Irishchamp]

Pin is fine, and turning around the diffs seems to have solved the nut issue, its still strange though, the tranission was designed to go forward and backwards.


The tmaxx disc is thicker but the nut has plenty of thread for the nylon to grab, I'm not sure if there is room for another nut but it's close, we'll see if I need it.
I'm wondering if the thicker tmaxx pad did create more space behind the bearing and allow for me to tighten it enough to push the center in, bending and causeing the cracks and slippage. I didn't need to tighten the slipper down much at all after I installed the tmaxx pad but the nut issue got me going tighter and tighter for no reason.
I'm not sure what came first, the cracks or the nut backing off or if they're even related. It's all very strange, hopefully I replace the clutch assembly and don't have the name problems and breakage again.

Originally Posted by S1NN3R

Depends on how tight the slipper backplate is on the shaft, might still move and just slip a bit, might just totally slip and not move at all, or anywhere in between. It was just the first thing I thought of that could cause the nut to back off that quickly.

Or maybe the thicker T-Maxx brake disc is preventing the nut from tightening enough to catch the nylon part, or the nut itself is just old and not grabbing anymore. That kind of power could just be causing slip no matter how tight you have it.

Easy way to non-permanently lock it is to jam nut it, take one standard nut and tighten the slipper where you want it, then strongly tighten a second standard nut onto that. Very unlikely to come lose on it's own that way, but still easily removable when you want to.

[Irishchamp]

I'll have to check the thread pattern SAE/Metric but I'm pretty sure I didn't do that, especially sense I replaced the nut twice, it's surely possible though.
Id have to laugh if it turns out this simple.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

The jam nut would work, but if he doesn't have enough thread for the plastic on the locknut to engage the threads, he won't be able to use a jam nut. The only way the locknut would unscrew itself would be if it's the wrong size, like maybe it's SAE thread on a metric shaft?, Just suggestions, not being critical

[Mike Flea]

Irish, I was reading back through the posts, and it appears that after you started using the disc brake pads is when your problem started. After you purchase replacement parts for those that are cracked, try going back to the way you had it set up before you used the pads, and see if your problem persists, it might be those pads are not giving you an even tension on the slipper disc/spur gear, and it's wobbling causing the nut to back off...if that makes any sense.

[Irishchamp]

I'll give that a try, start back where I had things working consistently. I used the rig for a few heavy test pulls with the brake pad disc and it worked great, however use was very limited. maybe I didn't seat the disc properly when reinstalling the motor after changing the chassis.
thanks for the suggestion!

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Irish, I was reading back through the posts, and it appears that after you started using the disc brake pads is when your problem started. After you purchase replacement parts for those that are cracked, try going back to the way you had it set up before you used the pads, and see if your problem persists, it might be those pads are not giving you an even tension on the slipper disc/spur gear, and it's wobbling causing the nut to back off...if that makes any sense.

[S1NN3R]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

The jam nut would work, but if he doesn't have enough thread for the plastic on the locknut to engage the threads, he won't be able to use a jam nut.

True, but that suggestion was more in the event that the nut was fully engaged and just not able to properly hold anymore.

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

The only way the locknut would unscrew itself would be if it's the wrong size, like maybe it's SAE thread on a metric shaft?, Just suggestions, not being critical

I disagree on that, I've seen a lot of the big Traxxas slipper nuts come loose, typically on the E-Revo BL on 6s. However, that's usually just loosening up enough to cause slip, not enough to actually come off.

I do agree with the suggested next step troubleshooting though, put the slipper back to stock and see what happens. If the nut stays tight, change to the T-Maxx brake again and see if the problem reappears. The nylon can wear out in the lock nuts as well, wouldn't be a bad idea to toss a new one of those on as well.

[Mike Flea]

I was just throwing something out there, I don't have any experience with the traxxas transmissions.

[Irishchamp]

well new parts, same chain of events; nut backs off, I put 2nd nut behind it, works great for a few minutes then just starts slipping and suddenly nut can go on further, slipper parts are bending again, exact same places.
so basically, it backs off, then slips then bends as I tighten it down. now I'm being extra careful not to tighten past the spring being fully compressed as that would obviously bend things.
I'm thinking that the stock clutch design is just not strong enough.
at least the new parts were only $8, however even at 8 bucks, lasting five minutes gets expensive.

I'm thinking that I'll go with this:
Hot Racing Traxxas Summit RC Car upgrades and Hop-ups

on a side note traction is pretty awesome, aside from the wagon wheels actually binding up on a ledge like a curb, rock, or other vertical ledge it pulls 100lbs approx over anything. this means I should be able to pull kids all over most trails, or a wagon full of supplies, other rc's etc. now if the wagon had 4 wheel independent suspension and softer tires I bet I'd be unstoppable.

Steering is still worthless, I need to get rid of the servo savers, they limit steering to about 20% most of the time.

[Irishchamp]

I'm definitely getting a little side tracked here but can anyone suggest a brushed motor setup for this rig, the cogging is pretty bad and I'm sure jerking forward is not helping the slipper.

[Mike Flea]

I'm using a 35t Integy lathe motor for my 1/6 GI Joe Jeep. Don't ask me what the Lathe means, I don't know. I know what a lathe is, because I have one in my workshop, but this motor wouldn't even come close to turning it. I'm not sure if this would have the power to do what you want it to do.

[Irishchamp]

I ordered two Dewalt 18v motors. :-) hopefully they'll do the trick.
I found 24v versions after I ordered, wishing i ordered them instead, not sure if the 18v will take more than 6s lipo. On the plus side I have enough batteries for three 5s batteries and one 6s so lots of runtime.

[Irishchamp]

I'm thinking about setting it up to tow from the middle of the flatbed like a fifth wheel or semi hitch, I'm hoping it will allow for better sterring when pulling a heavy load, I'm not sure how it will effect the actual pulling ability though?
Anyone have any first hand knowledge on this?
Thanks

[Irishchamp]

I'm curious what transmission/gear ratio you're running in your 1/6 jeep and how much it weighs?
I've always wondered the same thing about "Lathe" motors
EDIT: Rc lathe :-)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hrmTtlvQt8w

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

I'm using a 35t Integy lathe motor for my 1/6 GI Joe Jeep. Don't ask me what the Lathe means, I don't know. I know what a lathe is, because I have one in my workshop, but this motor wouldn't even come close to turning it. I'm not sure if this would have the power to do what you want it to do.

[Irishchamp]

I copped out a little on the body and just cut up some 26gauge galvanized steel sheet. It does the job till I'm more inspired.






I'll have to get working on this next.


Perched on a gallon of oil it still has 6 tires in the ground.