Raptor Pre-Runner Build

[Raptorn]

Next big item is the rear links. This is where the CAD model shows its usefulness. I measured how far from the chassis I wanted the axle, placed it there in CAD and it calculated how long my links were in seconds.

I was suprised at how short they turned out considering the size of the body.
Upper: 108mm
Lower 112mm

I did the allthread method. The black lines mean upper.
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Mounting them took forever: every single fastner gave me some issue or another! But I got it done!

The wheel sit just slightly back in the wheelwells, so when I sleeve them I will remove 2-3mm from all the links to correct that.

[Mike Flea]

Looks like you got it figured out, keep it up !

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Looks like you got it figured out, keep it up !

Thanks Mike!


Small update: I just ordered a Mamba Max Pro and a Tekin Pro4. Got a steal of a deal! Stock wraith trans is on its way, and I need to order up some upgrades for it to handle the power.

[Raptorn]

I feel I have neglected this thread... So hopefully the progress this week will make up for that.

The next milestone is to make this thing a roller.

I spent inordinate amounts of time in CAD redesigning the front end so that I had some idea of how I could actually build it. If anyone wants to see renders or drawings I can do those easily.

I printed drawings of the parts I needed and got to work cutting and notching. The drawings are 100% to scale, so no more measuring- just line up and mark! I notched the tubes using the edge of a standard grinding wheel. It doesn't fit perfectly, and isn't consistent, but it is quick enough to make up for that.


This is the first of the A-arms. 0.250" OD, 0.058" wall, which means that an M3 screw will slide through perfectly!


And after the horrible tack welding. I'll go back soon and fully weld it.

[stelerzman]

Impressive work. Can't wait to see the final product.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

Impressive work. Can't wait to see the final product.

Thanks, neither can I!

[Raptorn]

Got the main portion of the IFS subframe done. Everything may not be square, but oh well.

And I am definitely getting better at welding!

[cmbscx10]

Just got done reading your build so far. Very impressed. Looking forward to your progress and completion.

[stelerzman]

Things are looking GREAT, don't stop now. Dying to see more.

[diesel kawboy]

Lookin good man! Keep it up!

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

Things are looking GREAT, don't stop now. Dying to see more.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone!

Unfortunately I made some measurement mistakes on the subframe and haven't found time to fix it. Also I have to redo my upper arm design yet again.

I do have some progress I have yet to post, I'll do that when I get back to my computer.


Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[Raptorn]

This progress is from while ago, I just haven't had time to post it.


This the first attempt at making upper links. Not only did this metal have some weird coating, I figured out I was welding with twice the amps needed, which explains the carnage.


Needless to say, I had to make a new design. The allthread screws into a rod end which would hold the knuckle and triangles sandwich the all thread and the hinges.


I needed this done for a small demonstration the next day, so out came the hot glue.

Suprise! The arms broke pretty much as soon as I bolted them on. After this maddening series of failures, I decided to move on the front shock mount. I traced the design onto sheet metal, then cut it out and bent it.


Finally, something that worked first try! This bolts between the framerails and the top of the shock bolt through it. Not pretty, but very functional.

Even though I welded the brackets that hold the arms onto the subframe wrong, it still fits together and will end up looking something like this:

I'm going to ending this post with some very pretty pictures: Shiny parts and shiny welds!



I welcome all comments and questions!

[Raptorn]

I finally got myself some upper arms that will stay together!


A wild dremel attacks! It made some off center and lopsided holes for the shocks. At least they fit through.


This rod is the key to the whole roll cage. The thought is that it will protect the body (big, expensive, and hard to find) from cracking on a roll over. The tube will tuck right into the drip rails.



The bedcage is moving along too. This is the basic plan, But I still have to figure out how to mount the shocks in double shear without welding tiny tabs.

The big black thing is a spare tire... I can't draw

[Mike Flea]

Make that purple crossbar a little larger diameter than the rest of the tube/bar and drill through it to mount the shocks...no tabs!

[cmbscx10]

Enjoying where you are gong with this but i have a question due to my limited understanding of suspension geometery in relation to the body. Are you building a low rider?

When i started mine i wanted the stock look but to be able to articulate well enough that you would do a double take and say no way that stock truck is climbing over that stuff. To my current knowledge that can only be done with a massive tire or moving up the top shock hoop. In my case, like you, I have not seen another body like mine and i did not want to hack my body up or my bed to accomplish this so i compromised. Your shocks are so far up into the bed it looks like the body will be on the ground. I am still learning but wanted to see what your overall plan was.

Enough of my jibberish.

** Here is mine currently. I would like and will be running a PL SS XL for more ground clearance but that will also "lift" it a little. I am ok with that if i don't have to hack my bed up.

[twissted]

When looking to build a frame I trace the bottom of the body onto cardboard and build the frame from that. Modifiyng the body first is the hardest parts beause sometimes they are needed after the build starts.
This Gladiator has a much shorter bed and a lot of the bottom of the body was trimed off as well as the fender wells. Taking your time to plan and seeing the big picture makes the build faster and cheaper. I will be completely rebuilding this Gladiator when I make the time to do so.

[Raptorn]

Thanks for the input everyone!

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Enjoying where you are gong with this but i have a question due to my limited understanding of suspension geometery in relation to the body. Are you building a low rider?

When i started mine i wanted the stock look but to be able to articulate well enough that you would do a double take and say no way that stock truck is climbing over that stuff. To my current knowledge that can only be done with a massive tire or moving up the top shock hoop. In my case, like you, I have not seen another body like mine and i did not want to hack my body up or my bed to accomplish this so i compromised. Your shocks are so far up into the bed it looks like the body will be on the ground. I am still learning but wanted to see what your overall plan was.

The shocks are high in the bed only for picture purposes, they will be mounted much lower than that! The shock mount will be placed so that full compression on the shocks is just before the axle contacts the bottom of the bed. The top of the shock should be about 1.5" above the bed.

This might be a low-rider compared to some of the extra tall trucks I see on here! It is set up as a scale desert pre-runner, not a crawler at all. Most of the shock travel will be from droop.

It hurt a little bit to hack at it, but it is not in great shape anyway. Hopefully I will only have two more holes to cut.

[spookyseven]

What are your tig settings, tungsten size/type and filler material? It seems like getting the settings right on a welder is half the battle. I'm a beginner with tig but some of the more seasoned pros might be able to give you some pointers.

[Raptorn]

Originally Posted by spookyseven

What are your tig settings, tungsten size/type and filler material? It seems like getting the settings right on a welder is half the battle. I'm a beginner with tig but some of the more seasoned pros might be able to give you some pointers.

That's the half I haven't quite figured out. I was using about 80 amps (WAYYY TOO MUCH, explains the burnt and melted joints) with standard ER70 rod. harley's videos about welding have some great tips and settings.

Next time I try I will go with about 30 amps and experiment with the hertz. I might order some thinner filler rod too.

[spookyseven]

What size filler rod? What are you using for tungsten? Also have you thought about designing an upper a-arm that uses 3 revo style rod ends? this way you wouldn't have to try and weld the tiny pieces of tube on the end.