Ford F350 HD All-Pro Expedition Pack Rack Build

[cmbscx10]

Thanks Mike. Not sure what twissted input was all bout but moving on.

I made a battery plate out of aluminum. For me, If it is a piece that needs thought, i first make it out of paper/CAD (Cardboard Aided Dipshit-esign). If i am a little uncomfortable with tolerances i then make it out of aluminum for tweaks before the final metal piece. Just the way my pea brain works.




Trying to decide on the rear plate placement for best weight distribution along with placement (Stacked or side by side) of the Rx box and Lights/BEC box. Obviously lower is better and i like it in front of the shocks but the plate will be so big to accommodate the boxes that i will hit the links far to early. Maybe i will make a small plate in front of the shocks for the ESC and put the boxes in the back.

[twissted]

I like the LST that you have as one of the Rc's in one of your post. The rest is just someone bashing me. As for how I built it that is now water under the bridge. I'm building for a while. I just was sharing some thoughts with you as to spark new life into something that you already have is all.
I'm not trying sway you one way or the other. Just sharing is all.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by twissted

I like the LST that you have as one of the Rc's in one of your post. The rest is just someone bashing me. As for how I built it that is now water under the bridge. I'm building for a while. I just was sharing some thoughts with you as to spark new life into something that you already have is all.
I'm not trying sway you one way or the other. Just sharing is all.

I appreciate that and thanks for sharing. I respect your builds and I have a LST roller that i will make something like you designed and built but only after this one.

Now, back on topic.

[Mike Flea]

Are you going with a CMS or axle mount servo? If you go with CMS, you might be able to fashion your battery plate with the servo mount, then you wouldn't hit the links. On the other hand, if you mount your battery/batteries on sliders, you'd keep the weight low, and wouldn't interfere with links or an axle mounted servo. Just some ideas

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Are you going with a CMS or axle mount servo? If you go with CMS, you might be able to fashion your battery plate with the servo mount, then you wouldn't hit the links. On the other hand, if you mount your battery/batteries on sliders, you'd keep the weight low, and wouldn't interfere with links or an axle mounted servo. Just some ideas

Thanks for the suggestions Mike.

Axle mounted servo for now. Never had a CMS set up so i would like to try that down the road.

Duh! I totally forgot about the sliders and that fact i still need some. Would make battery changes much easier than where it is now. I have enough to room between the cab and frame to run a 3S if i wanted to.

[cmbscx10]

Final mock up of RotoPax and Power Tank done. I heated up some Kydex for the PT handle but need to do the final cuts on that. Will post later.

[Norton]

Here are the pictures of the body pivot point. you were looking for. All of my cross bracing I did with delrin. Fully built without a battery it comes in at 12.3lbs.

[stelerzman]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Thanks for the suggestions Mike.

Axle mounted servo for now. Never had a CMS set up so i would like to try that down the road.

Duh! I totally forgot about the sliders and that fact i still need some. Would make battery changes much easier than where it is now. I have enough to room between the cab and frame to run a 3S if i wanted to.

If you intend on using the sliders to mount your batteries keep in mind that you should try to keep the weight balanced. If buying new 3s batteries, might want to buy pairs of lower mah. Like 2200, this way you can mount one on each side, and you won't sacrifice long run times.
This will most likely be the lowest point on the chassis.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

If you intend on using the sliders to mount your batteries keep in mind that you should try to keep the weight balanced. If buying new 3s batteries, might want to buy pairs of lower mah. Like 2200, this way you can mount one on each side, and you won't sacrifice long run times.
This will most likely be the lowest point on the chassis.

Thanks for that suggestion. I like that idea because i have way too many 2500mAh doing nothing from my SCX & Wraith.

I only had Gray Kydex scrap but it will be painted anyway. The Handle is the best scale measurements i could make. I could only get 2 slots for your fingers with the tools i have. Not sure who would be missing their two middle fingers but hey it is what it is.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Norton

Here are the pictures of the body pivot point. you were looking for. All of my cross bracing I did with delrin. Fully built without a battery it comes in at 12.3lbs.

I really appreciate you taking the pics for me. I didn't think it through enough but since my bumper is attached to the chassis i can't make it hinge. No big i am just over 1/2 done and in the long home stretch so taking off the body from time to time will just be the way it is.

I have a 5lb max shipping scale and i stuck the body, chassis and front axle on it. Didn't even register. I am thinking with the rack it will be 13-15lb.

[cmbscx10]

Received my Motor, ESC & Axle tonight and had to install.

SSD Centered Axle
I have been fortunate enough $$ wise to have VP Curries and they are very nice pieces for sure that cost a ton. Almost too much to be honest. The SSD Axle is just as nice for just about 1/2 the $$. Very impressed with the machining and tolerances. I have no doubt it will hold up for quit a while. ** I don;t like Red but the mounts were on it when i traded for them.




This is about where it will sit at ride height. I was shootin for a little lower but it will do for now unless i want to hack up the bed to stick the shocks through. When i run it it will be decided if it is ok or too high. You know i had to do it so I also did a little poser shot for inspiration.

[Mike Flea]

Looks good Mike! What shocks are you running? you might be able to change the spring/shaft length, or pick up a set of shorter shocks to get it to ride lower without cutting into the body.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Looks good Mike! What shocks are you running? you might be able to change the spring/shaft length, or pick up a set of shorter shocks to get it to ride lower without cutting into the body.

Thanks. I appreciate the comments.Being my first ground up scaler i am really liking the build process. More challenging but more fun creating something of my own.

They are PL scalers 95mm left over from my SCX. They bottom out without stops leaving 1/4 from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel wheel. This huge thing will need some major shock tuning in length, springs etc. That part will not be fun because there is not much to follow in other set ups. Hopefully i will have some hair left when i get to that point.

[cmbscx10]

Motor, ESC & Tx box mocked up. Need to clearance the rear link riser for the ROC a little bit. Wanted a little weight up front to offset the expedition rack in the back.

** If anyone who has run AR60's and upgraded their servo plate, i am looking for one. Will buy it of course. Mine didn't come with one and i'll order a new one if i need to.

[stelerzman]

You could also limit the shocks internally with a piece of fuel tubing.
Or put a shorter rod end on.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

You could also limit the shocks internally with a piece of fuel tubing.
Or put a shorter rod end on.

Thanks for the tip John. I put on smaller rod ends i had and shocks came out to 90mm. That might be too short but until i run it i have no idea. Looks lower for sure in the first pic.


Made up my Battery trays/Rock Sliders. I tried to follow the body line as best i could. In 1:1 i hated my last pair of Rock Sliders i had on my Wrangler because they stuck out too far from the body. Protect your body but don't make it look dumb doing so IMO. I would put these on my 1:1 for sure. I need to mark and drill the holes from the trans as i will be using those holes for the middle and one in front and one in back part of the frame. Need to cut some sheet metal and attach to the supports. They are so big i could put a 6S on each side for cryin out loud. The flat stock on the frame is 11" and the Slider is 12".

[Norton]

Love the sliders, but you better fill the gaps in between the rods! With such a long wheelbase your gonna get hung up left and right. Even small strips of thin gauge metal.

[cmbscx10]

Didn't get any responses in the wanted section for a servo plate so i made one out of steel for a little more weight down low.

Tacked on some sheet metal to one of the Rock Sliders. What a PITA. My Gauge steel was smaller than the chassis supports so it was warping like heck from the heat no matter how i clamped it. Turned out good enough. You won't see it so it's all good.

** If i end up doing a front bumper i am going to look into one of those little Jewelers Torch's.

[cmbscx10]

Just traded some Nitro items i had from my Losi XXL conversion to attach to my homemade servo plate. I think it will do for now and hope it has enough TQ.

HS-8380TH High Voltage, Ultra Responsive, Ultra Torque Titanium Gear Servo | HITEC RCD USA

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Just traded some Nitro items i had from my Losi XXL conversion to attach to my homemade servo plate. I think it will do for now and hope it has enough TQ.

HS-8380TH High Voltage, Ultra Responsive, Ultra Torque Titanium Gear Servo | HITEC RCD USA

486oz should be more than enough, but you never know til you start testing it, however, since it appears most of the weight will be behind the front axle, instead of over it, you should be good-to-go!