My 1/6 Gi-Joe Willy's Jeep Build

[TacoCrawler]

I have the original WB8's on my scx-10
and they have held up acceptably...
But I have still had to replace the male spline shaft
when it got too chewed up from rock rash.

IMO... a better option is...

To utilize the newer WB8 HD design that comes on the Deadbolt kit.

The WB8 HD DS's utilize two female tubes along with a single ( + ) male floating center spline.
IMO it's stronger and less susceptible to male spline damage.

here's what those look like on my 1/6 scale build. *

* old picture

since... I have adjusted the shaft length slightly
by adding a single longer female tube to each shaft
so now the male center spline is exposed less.
...but it still allows for full shaft compression.



You can either purchase a full kit.
or just the plastic shaft kit.
The DS length(s) are adjustable by utilizing alternative tube lengths
that are included in their prospective kits.

Axial Racing - WB8-HD Driveshaft Set (2pcs)
^ full kit @ Axial

Axial 1/10 SCX10 Deadbolt Front & Rear Center Driveshafts - WB8 Set
^ full kit - less coin

Axial Racing - WB8-HD Driveshaft *
^ if just needing the plastics.

the bay *
^ plastics only - less coin

* ...since you already have the alloy couplers.

If you choose to stick with the stock WB8's
I would suggest inserting a 6mm plastic dowel
inside the male spline shaft...
doing so will eliminate or at least reduce the possibility of male spline twist.

I used/cleaned up a plastic dowel that was left over from my parts trees.
I left a little nub on the end to protrude slightly...
so I can grab that and pull it out, allowing reuse, if the male spline shaft needed replacement.

I intend to change my scx-10 to the newer Deadbolt WB8's
the next time I have to replace the male spline shaft.

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

I have the original WB8's on my scx-10
and they have held up acceptably...
But I have still had to replace the male spline shaft
when it got too chewed up from rock rash.

IMO... a better option is...

To utilize the newer WB8 HD design that comes on the Deadbolt kit.

The WB8 HD DS's utilize two female tubes along with a single ( + ) male floating center spline.
IMO it's stronger and less susceptible to male spline damage.

here's what those look like on my 1/6 scale build. *

* old picture

since... I have adjusted the shaft length slightly
by adding a single longer female tube to each shaft
so now the male center spline is exposed less.
...but it still allows for full shaft compression.



You can either purchase a full kit.
or just the plastic shaft kit.
The DS length(s) are adjustable by utilizing alternative tube lengths
that are included in their prospective kits.

Axial Racing - WB8-HD Driveshaft Set (2pcs)
^ full kit @ Axial

Axial 1/10 SCX10 Deadbolt Front & Rear Center Driveshafts - WB8 Set
^ full kit - less coin

Axial Racing - WB8-HD Driveshaft *
^ if just needing the plastics.

the bay *
^ plastics only - less coin

* ...since you already have the alloy couplers.

If you choose to stick with the stock WB8's
I would suggest inserting a 6mm plastic dowel
inside the male spline shaft...
doing so will eliminate or at least reduce the possibility of male spline twist.

I used/cleaned up a plastic dowel that was left over from my parts trees.
I left a little nub on the end to protrude slightly...
so I can grab that and pull it out, allowing reuse, if the male spline shaft needed replacement.

I intend to change my scx-10 to the newer Deadbolt WB8's
the next time I have to replace the male spline shaft.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check that out.

[thekdk604]

Been doing some work his weekend... transmission and wheels came in the mail and I managed to get the axles all built. I also hinged the hood:











Axles and wheels all built, the wheels are really nice:



The front and rear axles are the EXACT same width, I got pretty lucky there

Here's the R2 trans ane T1 t-case connected to my motor:











I'll be installing the t-case and trans in the body soon, I'll keep it posted

[thekdk604]

Got the transfer case installed in the frame I notched the crossmember and then just found some random bolts in my garage that worked. It turned out really nice and it's rock solid. Check it out:



















Next step, installing the R2 transmission

[thekdk604]

Starting to get the transmission mounted. I cut out part of the firewall so the trans can sit flat.







Test fitting the R2:





I made some templates for the brackets that will mount the trans. I'll scan these up and cut them out on the the laser cutter at our shop:



They should be cut out by this week and then I can mount the trans. After that, I'll start on cutting the links for the suspension. Sorry for the slow progress, but I'm getting closer

[Mike Flea]

Take your time, no rush

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Take your time, no rush

Thanks, it's coming along.

[thekdk604]

Hey guys, I've been pretty busy with school and other interests, but today, I finally did some more work on my Willy's. I painted it a nice golden yellow, I know, I know, Yellow? gross!!!!!!! but it looks really good.





I also got the axe and shovel painted a nice brown to look like wood, and added some more scratches with some metallic paint. Also, I put in a cool gouge in the axe to look like a big ole chip.











Got a little Mammoth sticker



I painted it yellow to match a certain Jeep





It matches a lot better in person. I also painted the chassis black.







Tomorrow, I'll be making the brackets to secure the transmission to the body with some angle iron I got at Ace Hardware. More to come!

[thekdk604]

Pictures of the mounted transmission and electronics to come today. I finished late last night and was too tired to post pictures I think it turned out really nice.

[TacoCrawler]

look forward to seeing more

curious tho'

since these Hasbro builds seem to be popular lately

how durable are those plastic frames
when it comes to rock grind ?

Doesn't the center skid need some metal added to it's
under surface to minimize the grind ?

Guess I'm just curious as to why
everyone retains the stock plastic frame
rather then replacing it with metal ?

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

look forward to seeing more

curious tho'

since these Hasbro builds seem to be popular lately

how durable are those plastic frames
when it comes to rock grind ?

Doesn't the center skid need some metal added to it's
under surface to minimize the grind ?

Guess I'm just curious as to why
everyone retains the stock plastic frame
rather then replacing it with metal ?

I here ya, I might stick some metal plate under the t-case skid later on down the line, we'll see. I actually thought about making my own steel frame, but that would be A LOT more work than I'm willing to put in

Anyway, as promised, here are the pictures with the transmission all mounted up:

The hood and windshield dried and they look super nice:



Transmission:







I managed to fit all that stuff under the hood and still got it closed perfectly:



Here's the little bity driveshaft going from the trans to the t-case , I just chopped it a little bit with a dremel and it works well so far:







Everything spins freely with no trouble. I'm really happy with the results so far... Next step, getting the links and suspension system situated. That's it for now!

[TacoCrawler]

looks good

now you get to try and break it !? Lol

report back on how the durability goes...
I just might have to build one of these too.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

look forward to seeing more

curious tho'

since these Hasbro builds seem to be popular lately

how durable are those plastic frames
when it comes to rock grind ?

Doesn't the center skid need some metal added to it's
under surface to minimize the grind ?

Guess I'm just curious as to why
everyone retains the stock plastic frame
rather then replacing it with metal ?

Taco, if you look through some of the earlier Hasbro Jeep builds, I've seen where builders have epoxied in box tubing to strengthen the chassis, and some that have just filled the frame with epoxy. Personally, I think it's a good idea, adds weight below the body, and gives a little more strength to the chassis when attaching link mounts.

thekd604, you're doing a real good job on your Willy's, turning out super nice! I just have one suggestion, and I base it on the other Late model Hasbro builds, open up your radiator and mount a small fan in there for cooling. Your motor is all enclosed in the engine compartment, with no venting. Check out some of the other builds similar to yours.

[Norton]

I thought I'd post up a couple pictures of how I beefed up my frame. I made a center section that that sandwiches each side of the frame with a center cross bar that allowed me to mount the transfer case. Wrapping the frame on each side also allowed solid spots to mount the four link setup in front and back.

Your Willy's is looking great, keep it up.

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

looks good

now you get to try and break it !? Lol

report back on how the durability goes...
I just might have to build one of these too.

Hopefully it holds

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

thekd604, you're doing a real good job on your Willy's, turning out super nice! I just have one suggestion, and I base it on the other Late model Hasbro builds, open up your radiator and mount a small fan in there for cooling. Your motor is all enclosed in the engine compartment, with no venting. Check out some of the other builds similar to yours.

Yea, I went on RCP crawlers website today (I think it belongs to a guy named ZoSo on here) and they had a fan I saw. Also, my ESC has an auxiliary power supply I could use. I will definitely look into that more, thanks for the suggestion.

[thekdk604]

Originally Posted by Norton

I thought I'd post up a couple pictures of how I beefed up my frame. I made a center section that that sandwiches each side of the frame with a center cross bar that allowed me to mount the transfer case. Wrapping the frame on each side also allowed solid spots to mount the four link setup in front and back.

Your Willy's is looking great, keep it up.

Thanks for the compliment, and that's a nice looking frame you got there, looks really clean.

[thekdk604]

Got some more work done over the weekend. I mounted those Tamiya brackets to the frame and will start the links sometime this week or weekend.







Truckin along stay tuned for more

[thekdk604]

Got the rear links made, will post pictures later today with the shocks mounted.

[pastimesteve]

Looking great! Just wondering how you're going to handle the steering servo? It doesn't look like there's room in the engine compartment, unless I missed something? I ask because I'm building one of these at the moment and I wasn't sure what approach to take.

Thanks,
Steve