Look what Snata did not bring me

[TacoCrawler]

I have no idea what might be locally available to you...

but if ya purchase online

these folk might have what you need.


https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...p=2&top_cat=60

plenty of other online stores if you google that

[Mike Flea]

I agree with Taco, that you're on the right track with the EXO chassis, IFS/IRS for a Hummer would be right on. Not owning an EXO myself, I really don't know what's on the chassis, but looking at the pic you've shown, if you cut the chassis in the middle, and just get a flat piece of aluminum or thin steel to match the width of the metal on the bottom of the chassis, you should be able to extend it for the wheelbase you need.
C'mon, you have the knowledge to extend the chassis, you just have to apply it!

[kgb424]

I found an taller after market shock tower but it is not for an EXO

and one person on RC Short Course says the towers will work, but did post any pictures and had to dug thru 55 pages in the EXO section

To come up with that, so either people don't know or the right person has not seen this posting yet, same with the Short Course website

So I guess I will have to buy the shock towers and see if I can the rears shocks mounted a horizontally at angle like the front ones

The aftermarket towers are taller than the stock ones so that might be a problem

I want to get the shocks figured out before I buy an extra EXO chassis and start looking for the some aluminum plate

I'm just working on it a little at time and doing right this time I hope

And not really finding shit to help me

So I guess I got to keep looking while waiting for some one help me and give some info

I had a wisdom tooth pulled earlier today and its killing me right now

[kgb424]

OK I finally made up my mind

And I 'm going to build a chassis using the Wraith skid plate and axles

Because the EXO is a 4x4 Short Course Buggie/Truggie and was design run on tracks at speed

not go slow and crawl, plus the fact I have to use Short Course 2.2''/3.0'' tires and wheels, cause of the way the EXO knuckles and rear hubs are

None of my 2.2'' or 1.9'' bead locks will not work, they all rub on the EXO's knuckles and hubs, plus the EXO is only half the suspension travel that the Wraith has

So its back to drawing board to come up with a chassis that uses the Wraith skid plate and axles

I want 1:6 scale crawler/ basher

If I want to go fast I can re-assemble the EXO or use my HPI Mini Trophy Desert Truck

I don't care if the Humvee is not scale, I want wheeler

So where can I find some chassis designs or ideas to build a chassis for the Humvee ??

[67mustang]

Ya know. I am building that new bright avalanche...and I decided to use my e maxx rpm suspension.

Of course that is 4 wheel independent...not the best look for an avalanche. Also probably a little too wide with the rpm arms. But its fine cause its strong.

I think the stock emaxx suspension arms would look great on this hummer. It would be the strongest option for sure. Not sure what your wheel options would be...but I am sure it is workable.

Have you seen/worked with traxxas maxx suspension? I am about to start my chassis so Ill be lookin at how you build yours. The overall capability will have alot to do with overall weight. Personally I will be shooting for strong and light.

[kgb424]

I owned and rebuilt 2 first generations Traxxas's

A Nitro T-Maxx and a Nitro Stampede

That were just a box of parts and pieces, when I got them and I understand why the first time I ran them, cause they broke every time, I used either one of them and just not into Nitro RC's and the constant tuning and screwing with them to run decent for more then 20 minutes

there a pain in the ass and over that shit, never again will I own a Traxxas any thing especially a nitro

I hated them both with a passion, and they last about 3 months or less

until I got sick of them and the first guy that asked about them, got one hell of deal cause I got rid

of both them and all the extra stuff, years ago and will not be using any thing Traxxas

Except there rod ends that thread onto 8-32 all thread to make my own links

I have a second Wraith and an EXO, not buying a third used Traxxas or a shitload of Traxxas parts and piece something together

That may have worked for my second SCX10, I bought it in pieces and built it the way I wanted it, same with the second Wraith it was all pieces and I built it like it was a kit

That's what I'm going to do with the Humvee using what I already own and going big and its going to bad ass

when I finish it

[TacoCrawler]

Traxxas offers some decent product/design IMO
but some folk probably shouldn't be allowed to buy nitro anything

nitro is fun for some... but

it's dirtier, requires more maintenance,
commonly forward only W/brake. ('cept a few like muh T-maxx)
and you actually have to know how to tune a motor to run properly.

So maybe if ya fly nitro planes
or work at an rc hobby store, or two (did that)
ya learn that tuning nitro requires more involvement
and a solid understanding. (+ the right tools)

Today's e-components by far exceed what they used to be
and nearly make ground nitro a thing of the past.
Electric vehicles go just as fast, for nearly as long
and any dipshit can do it

Nitro is for the peeps that like the sound, smell and smoke experience.

if you've ever worked at a hobby store...
you get the pleasure of tuning nearly every nitro/RTR ever sold there...
...and for every dipshit that walks into the store spending money
Many of those consumer's can't grasp the concept or don't want to learn for themselves.
and so... fast become frustrated and even hostile
with everything and anyone

some consumer's are just idiots. ...s what I know

I vowed to never again tune another nitro
so no more retail hobby store work fo' me

[67mustang]

Right on. Though I wouldn't quite judge modern traxxas parts based on the original .15 t maxx. Those models are almost 20 years old by now and most all maxx parts have been revised. I too had a .15 maxx that I went "office space" on.

Not a huge traxxas fan at all but Only reason I mentioned traxxas is because you will have to watch your weight if you wanna use axial parts. Especially if you expect brushless type torque. My H2 pushes the weight limit of axial parts so I know what you are up against.

What are the ideal tires are you leaning towards?

[kgb424]

I'm not sure either my 2.2'' Ripsaws that came with my first Wraith Kit, Or the HBI Rovers I got when I built my second Wraith

I also have some G-Made Big Horns and some Pro line Badlands and some Old school Rock Lizards I got brand new and very cheap

So I have options 2 sets are killer for crawling and trails, the rest I have been using for bashing around my house and screwing around my street

And I used to own a Yamaha YZ 250 and learned how to tune and make adjustments, and hated the bike cause you had to be on the throttle at all times or it would foul a plug and stall out and needed to screw with a lot it, it was a used bike that had a hard life before I got it

I sold the Yamaha, and bought a Honda XR600 cause I got a bitching deal on it and I loved that bike , and knew people who owned them and rode theirs many times before I bought the XR600

I never should of sold it, but it had to go, now my back is too fried to ride any more , and riding just cause me pain, its the terrain at speed or just putting around that screws me up now a days

So I knew the basic's of a 2 stroke and a four stroke before I got the nitro RC's

but once I got them running they were not what I wanted and just didn't like them that much

So I sold them

[kgb424]

Today I made a experiment, I used what ever spacers

I could find and I got the upper and lower links mounted front and rear

And I got the 16'' wheelbase, the rear links are good, they only needed a little spacer

the front needed a lot longer spacers and I'm still going too add a couple washers cause the front axle needs tipped a little maybe

I thought I centered the skid, its not the links are not equal or would the drive shafts be either

I could it try it again and center the skid plate so the links and the drive shafts are equal

Then I had another Idea

About splitting the skid plate in half,

and move the front half forward unit the wheels are centered in the front wheel wells and the Wraith links line up

then move the back half back until the wheels are centered in the back wheel wells and the links line up

then mount a second skid with the motor and tranny

so the dive shafts are equal lengths

Would that not work ??

I want to hear what you think

about splitting the skid plate ??

or re-start and center the skid plate so the links and shafts are equal ??

I thought I centered the skid plate oblivious it is not centered

I must screwed up some how

cause what I did was measure the body which is 21 3/4'' long

then divided it by 2 and got 10 7/8'' I thought was the center of the body and then measured the skid plate width

I measured from the lower link grub screw hole to lower link grub screw hole and got 3''

so that means it is a 1 1/2'' to center of the skid plate

I then centered the rails and skid to what I thought was the body's center line

for some reason it off by a lot cause the links front and rear are different lengths

I can a get second skid plate

here we go again

[TacoCrawler]

find center line of the body (OC wheel well to wheel well)

Not the body's over all length

then measure from BOC to rear wheel well(s) OC

then measure from BOC to front wheel well(s) OC

Your links should be near to equal front and rear.

If anything... you would want the skid to be slightly forward.
as that offers more weight to the front.

But in turn will shorten the front suspension links
and reduce suspension articulation up front.

That is why I recommend the skid be centered between the wheel well(s)
Doing so will equate to equal suspension link(s) and drive shaft lengths,
both front and rear.

As far as rise and fall...

do you not have the original Wraith tube (plastic) chassis to measure from ?
The rise and fall of that ensures the axle housing(s) will clear the chassis
when fully articulated.

The difference in height (measured from ground)
will be higher at the fender arches then at the lower rocker.
This is how you determine the rise and fall measurement.

Measuring off the Wraith's original chassis gets you close.

Again... Look at my drawing on the very first page.
it shows the OC of my particular body
as well the required lengths from body OC
both front and rear... 7.75" each way, for this particular body.

Subtract the difference of the original link lengths
and you will know the difference necessary for the new link lengths.

[kgb424]

Taco

Yes I have I the chassis from the Wraith, I took the skid plate from

I didn't do any measurements, I drop the skid plate out of the chassis with the axles and links and drive shafts and tires attached

I then mocked it up too the bottom of the Humvee and made marks and measured a 16'' wheel base that looked centered in the wheel wells front and rear

So right there where I should stopped

Cause I still can't figure out a chassis

the shocks are going to kick my ass also

you lost me I don't under the rise and fall

not getting it

its the same when you where talking about the rise and fall of the chassis and mounting the shocks

It all went thru one ear and out the other

I did not get it then

really not getting it now

That why I asked if I split the skid plate and use the Wraith links I got now ??

would it not be the same as if it was on the Wraith chassis ??

again I have no idea how to do this

And I'm frustrated cause it is kicking my ass

[Mike Flea]

I wouldn't split the skid, I think it looks fine the way it is. Maybe later when you have the funds you can either make or purchase the right length solid links. My Jeep has a 15 inch wheelbase, and I'm using 106mm Traxxas rods with short link ends on the rear, and 104mm Traxxas rods with long link ends on the front.

[TacoCrawler]

the lower parallel line on the rocker
is the frame's low - starting point.

And I recommend that the frame extends below the body's rocker
by at least 1/4" so that sliders can be welded to the frame and clear the body's rocker(s).

Rise is how much the frame rises in distance (up) for the wheel well(s)
measured upwards from the lower rocker.

The angle of that rise (fore/aft.) is determined by you.
I chose to follow the body lines as closely as possible, so as to hide the vertical rise(s) of the frame rail(s) on my TJ.
Plus I use 30* bent links...
and so... needed to ensure those do not interfere with the frame rails.
Straight links would likely be less of a concern.

The Wraith chassis is a good starting point...
because we know that it works and the Axle(s) clear the wheel well's rise without issue.
The front and rear wheel well rise does not necessarily need be equal...
but may be determined/dictated by each particular body.

However... if they are equal...
then it makes it easier to obtain equal shock travel front and rear.

The front or rear of the frame horns may need to drop below the wheel well arch...
and is sometimes necessary to clear or accommodate... say a grill or rear tailgate,
and allow for frame extension (fore /or aft) for mounting the bumper(s) to.

^ the fender's rise is generally higher then the rocker would be.
But sometimes the fender(s) do not drop back down at the front or rear...
and just run parallel (fore /or aft.) following the fender lines.

^ This however was not the case with my TJ body.

so... the frame has to rise and then drop back down
in order to clear the front and rear clip.

make any sense yet ?

Sorry if I repeated myself

I'm probably not very good at describing " how to "







my layout...

but slightly different then my final build.

The 4 inboard frame rises were re-positioned, establishing them nearer to the skid and the interior,
and by effect or lack of caring, lengthened the frames WW openings slightly.

But because of my 30* links... I wanted to be sure they could not hit the frame at any point in articulation.
And the upper 30* link bend's are somewhat near to the C skid
so this adjustment was done to ensure I had no chance of interference.

[kgb424]

I see the red line it looks like chassis and has rise and fall

I can't duplicate that and make a chassis too match

and too center skid plate

I measured from the center of the body

to the center of front wheel well is 8 3/4 ''

to center of rear wheel well is 7 1/2''

so if you subtract 8 3/4 - 7 1/2 = 1 1/4''

do then split the difference again

if you do its 5/8''

what do you with the 1 1/4''

Am I missing something

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by kgb424

I see the red line it looks like chassis and has rise and fall

I can't duplicate that and make a chassis too match

Then just do the straight bar... they way you think best.

I don't know any other way short of lapping/bolting flat bar together.
Meh... not my thing + looks like chit IMO

Originally Posted by kgb424

and too center skid plate

I measured from the center of the body

to the center of front wheel well is 8 3/4 ''

to center of rear wheel well is 7 1/2''

so if you subtract 8 3/4 - 7 1/2 = 1 1/4''

do then split the difference again

if you do its 5/8''

what do you with the 1 1/4''

Am I missing something

I'm not understanding why your link lengths are unequal ?
Why are the front links longer ?

did you measure to find body's center line
by locating body's center point, between the wheel wells OC mark(s) ?

I come up with 16.25" total when adding 8 3/4" + 7 1/2"

16 1/4" is that what yer wheel base needs be ?

That means each lower link would need be 8.125" ?

No that can't be right... I think I must be missing something !?

what precisely is the wheel base of this damn body ?

Can you take a full profile, level, side angle picture of the body
and put a damn tape measure along it's length and visible forward of the body ?

It's possible that the skid being centered suspension wise...
may not center on the body where you like or want...

But if both front and rear susp. links are equal to each other...
I think your skid would move slightly forward then where is is currently ?

^ WB clarification please

[kgb424]

I don't get why the wheel wells are different either

I measured the body it 21 3/4 ''

divided by 2 = 10 7/8''

made a line at 10 7/8''

then measured from the center line to center of the rear wheel well is 7 1/2 ''

then if you measure from the center line to the center of front wheel it 8 3/4 ''

if you look at the skid plate/bottom plate and at the center line the front looks

and little longer and if you put a tape measure on it

the wheel well centers are different

there is 1 1/4'' difference between centers of the wheel wells

am I missing something

this thing is really screwing with head

[TacoCrawler]

hard to see or define accurately looking those pictures.

But I'll assume you're correct and the wheel base is 16.25 or near that.

Determining the wheel well(s) OC markings is a freelance sorta thing.
Figured out best by measuring with the wheels and tires you plan to utilize.
However... often the front WW OC mark will need be moved slightly forward
of it's actual center line because as the tire(s) turn and compress...
the front tires will need clear the front fenders trailing edge.
So where ever that WW OC mark is... be sure the wheel/tire have room to turn...
Or else you may be trimming the body to clear those fronts.

So I'm guessing that 8.125" is what should be the link length both front and rear.
But it doesn't have to be.
However... if any link length is going to be longer then the other...
then the rear link length should be the longer of the two IMO.

Measure the distance between the wheel well(s) OC marks
to determine the body's OC suspension/chassis center line.
So in other words... 8.125" measured from the wheel well's OC mark,
should be of equal distance for both front and rear link lengths.

The frame rails (chassis) will need be built to allow for clearance
of the under body... if there is obtrusion or interference.

The over-all length of the body is only critical for determining
the chassis's/frame's total rail length and the angle of the rise
so that it will clear the body's undercarriage as you want or need.

I don't recollect what the original link lengths of the Wraith are.
So that would need be known prior to determination of the new link lengths.

If you build the lower frame rail and it sits above the body's rocker
then I have no answer for you as to how you should build the frame.

Once the body's OC is determined...
subtract the difference of the new link length measurement from the original link lengths.
And that difference in length is what will need be added to the new link lengths.

Measure the original over-all link lengths from eye to eye.
not end to end.
And realize that not all ball ends are of the same length.

Something for you to note or realize.

The Revo ball ends are designed for 4mm threaded ID ( TRA# 5347 )
The Slash ball ends are designed for 3mm threaded ID ( TRA# 1942 )

My wheel base was extended to 15.5"
and for each original link length, 20mm ( 3/4" ) was added.

But if you look at my wheel base under my body...
the rear link length could have been slightly shorter...
and maybe the fronts should have been pushed forward a hair more.
You will see that the tires sit somewhat forward and rearward
at both the front and rear wheel well(s)
I suppose if I positioned the body slightly rearward...
I could effectively correct the alignment some.
But then I might have front tire interference with the radiator cowl.

But sometimes there has to be a compromise.

So tho' my tires do not sit perfectly centered in the TJ's wheel well(s).
I did this on purpose to extend my wheel base as much as possible
without having to cut the fender well openings to fit.

On my particular body... the original mfgr molded the inner fender edges of the wheel wells,
so they were trimmed back some...
and more so then would a factory original TJ Jeep.

Short of plating the side panels ( above the rocker(s) )
'bout the only thing I could do to make WW correction.
As my wheel well openings are larger then would be for an unmodified TJ.

So what I'm saying is that my wheel well opening's are not true nor accurate as they are.

I realize I'm likely just confusing you more...
but I'm guessing I'm not exactly sure what your questions are.

Did you first determine what the original link lengths are for the Wraith ?
I know the original suspension's WB is 13.9" (or 13.98" respectively for the PS Wraith )
So the 13.9" WB divided by 2 = 6.95"
And so that should be near what the Wraith's original link lengths are.
^ tho' I would take the measurement from the original link lengths to be sure.

So if your are going to extend to 16.25"
the difference of that using 13.9" = 2.35"

So then one would divide 2.35" X 2 = 1.175" per front/rear link extension.

So it would be my guess that 1.175" need be added
to each of the original Wraith link lengths to net 8.125"

Sooo...

6.95" + 1.175" = 8.125"

8.125" X 2 = 16.25"

[kgb424]

Taco

I think you are right, I took some more pictures

I put the end of tape what looks like the center of the rear wheel well

and measure to the center of front wheel it looks like 16 1/4'' or maybe 16 1/2 ''

so you were right, dam it

You lost me again

you wrote me a book I will never understand

I'm hands on visual type of person, I learn from watching some else do it

and as they explain as they are doing it, Then make me repeat there procedure and do it a couple of times

I took shop classes in high school, learned to use the manual Milling machine and the manual lathe, no body else took the time to learn, the teacher would stay after school and take his personnel time to show me, If I was willing to learn

And it was funny when the other kids, freaked out seeing me running the mill and would rat me out the teacher, he would tell to mind there own business and I was the only student allowed to run the equipment, I guess I should been learning to weld

I had access to arc welders, oxygen and acetylene, cutting torches, and have some welding experience, but not enough experience to feel confident, to a chassis for a RC and have never MIG or TIG welder

I bought some new bar stock today, the sticker this time says it is weld able steel and is dark in color

the other stuff says plain steel and is shiny so maybe its not weld able

And better using the weld able steel this time

still can't figure out a chassis or know how to build it

[TacoCrawler]

welp when looking at yer body.
I can tell this much...

the frame built will need follow the body's rocker line
and then rise some (fore - aft. angle)

But the good news is...
because of the body's nature/design
you may not need drop the frame again to clear front or rear
because both offer high clearance approach and departure angles.

So once the height of the wheel well arches are established...
would seem the frame rail's could extend straight out, and under the body's entry and departure points.

Short of building one for you...
I probably have less patience then did your shop teacher.
And so I've about exhausted my offered advice/experience.

I've purdy much given you the numbers and what knowledge I have.
Realize I'm not a professional instructor of anything
and so instructional guidance is not muh forte

I consider muh self as...
a jack of all... and master of none

but seabee's only subscribe to a "can do" attitude.
so once started... completion is mandatory.

What now ?

----------------

Doesn't Mattzilla still build custom frames ?
Have you inquired with the vendors here ?
or are you just gonna keep aggravating yourself with it ?

here's Mattzilla's 1/6 scale TJ chassis build.. (start post # 15)

1/6 TJ Jeep chassis

^ makes my frame construction seem less then exciting. Lol