Look what Snata did not bring me

[Mike Flea]

Just pick up a contour gauge at your local hardware store, place it on the bottom of your Hummer, get the shape that you need to make your rails. Why do you guys insist on doing everything the hard way?

[kgb424]

I have never used one

Or even know how it works

Are they different sizes of contour gauges ??

what is the minimum size of gauge I need ??

I just looked at one, and it looks like a bunch of nails or pins

on a strip, and there is one that looks like rubber or something

but neither one of the said, how it holds the contour

due they lock in position ??

how due I duplicate the contour with gauge ??

again this something I don't have an experience with

and really don't have the patience too screw with it

It not going to easy for me

Cause I get very little of

what Taco trying explain too me

about making a chassis

You need know how to use the gauge to

so the chassis comes like what Taco

been trying to explain too me

so maybe a gauge won't help me

I still can not figure why the front links are longer then rear ones , when the skid plate was centered in the body,

Or where to mount the skid plate in the new chassis so the links are even

Its not getting any easier for me

And I am know farther then when I started and still have no clue

how build the chassis

[Mike Flea]

Look up Bitter End's "Scrap Metal" build, on the first page, he's holding a contour gauge to the bottom of his Jeep, just push the pins to meet the shape of the bottom of the body, then just cut your metal to match up to the shape it forms, they come in different lengths, but the average size is 10-12" long around $10.

[kgb424]

Thanks Mike

I tried to trim the Humvee's bottom plate

So that it was 1/4'' below the rocker panels

But at 35,000 rpm's, the small cutting wheel for my Dremel

it melts the plastic as it cuts and it is not clean or even

so of course I sanded it, to try clean it up and even it up

nope now it is more than 1/4'' below the rocker panels

In the process, it looks like I need to trim the bottom of the seats more or remove them

it looks the spur gear, tranny, and motor will not fit in the space from bottom of the bed to the bottom of rocker panels

So that means the center console is going need trimmed or cut out completely

I want to keep the center console, and really don't want the spur gear, tranny and motor coming up thru the center console,

wonder if a motor forward plate would work , cause the is going to compress in the area also ??

As I was doing this I dropped the Humvee

It landed weird and broke the top hinge on the driver door

and now the door is screw up and wont open or close right

And I don't know if can fixed the hinge

It would look bad if there was is no doors and the spur, tranny, motor, are there where the console is

the doors would hide that and if I make a half roof, it would help hide the motor

like the Tan Humvee, I found pictures of, on E-Bay

just adding more decisions I got to make

[Jeepy84]

Tapatalk suggested this thread on my phone, so after reading I think I might make some suggestions to hopefully make this a bit easier.


First up, get some cereal boxes, and make some mock ups. Trying to eyeball all these measurements without chassis rails has you running a marathon on a treadmill. You're going nowhere.
From the pictures it looks like the rear of the rails doesn't need to necessarily rise up to follow the body, so you can leave it straight. Now from what I remember being under a Humvee, the front rails do not taper inward, they do however raise up, following the firewall, til they're about halfway to the hood. Then they angle again straight out towards the core support. On your body, take a chunk of cereal box and place it underneath where a frame rail will go. Mark with a pen where the firewall rises up toward the hood. Use this mark to maintain this position if things shift. Now with a straightedge placed along the firewall and cardboard still along the bottom, mark the angle the firewall makes on the cardboard. Take a razor knife, cut along that line. Then cut a line parallel to the top edge of the cardboard from the angled line back towards the back of the truck. Now you can use this board to determine how much rise you want in your front framerails. Though it isn't scale, I suggest you go all the way to the hood to give it some reinforcement. Once you have that height, you can determine how long the rail under the hood need be. Finally, take your template of angles, and draw it all out on another chunk of box, then draw a set of lines parallel to the first set however thick you need the rail to be to mount the Wraith skid.
Since you don't have a welder but do have a dremel and hopefully a large number of cutoff wheels, I suggest making the frame from a sheet of aluminum instead of bar steel.
Good luck bro.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[kgb424]

I moved the skid plate one hole forward by only using 2 screws on each side of the skid plate

And it moves the motor and tranny forward, so its less under the bed and more is under the center console

It looks like the center console is getting trimmed out

and the seats need to be trimmed also

cause If I want sliders they need to be 1/4'' above the bottom of the rocker panel

and with the seats untrimmed it won't give you the 1/4''

[kgb424]

I think I figured out my chassis

I just had to get liquored up first, after a few cocktails

and a little self medicating

It came to me

So I used a piece of the bar stock and drew it out on the card board drawing the Humvee was traced on to

Then like Jeepy84 suggested

I used a cereal box and some masking tape

Its not pretty but has contours, instead of a my attempt with a straight chassis

It has rise and fall

the straight chassis is only to hold my template temporary

I'm not sure if it will work

wanted to make sure before I cut any of my material

I need some opinions or suggestions

This is my first chassis template attempt

plus I'm hammered so it looks good to me

maybe not tomorrow

but tonight its all good

[TacoCrawler]

Looks like you have some understanding now

Are you going to mount the skid
to the dropped rail of the frame
whence that has been made permanent ?

Are you gonna weld it ?

or trace it on steel sheet stock
and use a cut off wheel to cut it out ?

Make sure you lay both rails atop each other
when drilling holes or cutting/grinding...
so their alignment/pattern remains equal.

Most 4" - 4.5" cut off wheels (not dremel) are about 1/8" thick.
So have enough excess material surrounding
so you don't mistakenly grind or cut too much off.

[67mustang]

Looking Good. Reminds me of my H2 chassis.

[kgb424]

Alrightly Then

I went to Lowes and Home Depot

And took back all of the 1/8'' x 1/2'' x 36'' bar stock and got twenty some dollars and change back

I went to a welding supply place they have no steel

Then I went to a plumbing supply place that also sheet metal and steel pipe and some steel nothing I could use

Just as was about to call it and go home, I then remembered a place

I bought some Aluminum stock to make shifts for my Toyota's, when I was taking shop classes at WNC

Its a stone and masonry and building supply, the sell structural steel

And for $16.00 out the door

I scored 2 pieces of 1/8'' x 4'' x 24'' flat steel plate

Yeah baby, its always the last place, you never think of and Goal !!!

Now if MR Taco would be so kind too fire up his plasma cutter, water jet cutter

Or his laser cutter

I don't care if he uses his Light Saber

Help a brother out

And come to the Dark Side

Cause they self Medicate and got steel plate

[kgb424]

I did make these

the first 2 are what I call

''Holy Hand Grenades'' after watching Monty Python's Quest For The Holy Grail

They were a project not for a vehicle

The 3rd shifter was for my Toyota Camry that I had it was the right amount of weight for my need for speed shifts

The 4th and 5th shifters are for my 87 Toyota, I had help from friends in my CNC classes, they were done on a CNC Lathe and a CNC Mill

And thanks to my pal Pete for helping me write the programs, they came out so nice

I got A's in both of my CNC classes, and my Instructor was proud of us

He paid to have them Anodized out of his own pocket

And did the same for Pete's project

You had to make certain required projects, then once you got those done and turned in

you were free to make what ever you wanted

[kgb424]

I bought some of these Bi-Metal blades for my Jig saw and they cut up to 1/8''

I want to use my Jigsaw because I can clamp a straight edge and use it too guide the Jigsaw and make straight clean cuts with little filing or little grinding

I also have 2 air cut off tool tools, but they are hard to make long straight cuts and there is more clean up filing or grinding after cutting

I'm hoping with the Markal Welding Pencils I ordered, I can see the lines clearly using the Jigsaw

I have used the air cut off tools and the heat eats your lines and they disappear

I hoping the welding pencils will work for ways of cutting

[kgb424]

I think I got my rear shock loops figured out

I drew out the shock loop and it is the same height as the front shocks

The rear loops and the shocks are going to go up thru the bed not in the wheel well

I notched the front of the body so the rail will run pass the body, so I can make a front bumper

I also trimmed the plastic off the back of the under the bed, so the rails run pass the body for a rear bumper

And since I'm cutting the rails out 4'' wide plate and it is 3 1/2'' high at its highest point

so I can adjust the rears before I cut the chassis rails out

[TacoCrawler]

gonna have any lights up front ?

accessories ?

forward winch, push bar - spare tire/fuel can mount out back ?

are you leaving enough frame protrusion,
beyond the body, for the mounting of any accessories ?

or possibly you've no interest !?

Oh and maybe less rise in front and utilize a shock tower there too ?

The rear shock tower is kinda wide IMO.
and that usually means a larger hole cut thru the body.

primary reason my shock towers are narrower.

They don't need be that wide in triangulation to be sturdy IMO.
Leave the towers solid... and triangulate them less. JMO

ie: front frame option ( this leaves some room to place a battery /or e components under the hood... maybe ? )

[kgb424]

I bought plate that is 24'' long and the chassis is 21 3/4''

so that leaves a stub for front and rear bumpers

I trimmed down my spare tire mount from the rear bumper of my SCX10 Jeep Rubicon body

to fit in the bed of Humvee but not sure if it will work with the shocks coming up thru the bed

I thought about putting the battery next to the Wraith skid plate, so the battery would be above the sliders

but the battery up front might be a better Idea

with the cardboard chassis there is room for the front suspension to fully compress, plus the body is touching the chassis in the front, so I could use magnets or use a plate on the inside of the body and chassis rails and the front bumper on the outside too keep the body in position

and the same with the back use magnets under the bed and a plate to close in the chassis under the bed and rear bumper keep its position

[kgb424]

I came up with a different way to mount the spare

not sure if it will work

It depends on the size of rear shock loops and where the shocks mount

[kgb424]

Did someone mention lights ??

I thought heard some bitching about lights

I got lights, the headlights and front marker lights are going to be lite up

and four small brake lights in the rear

the front lights need to be glued in and backed with black paint

So there is no light leaks

I lost one of the half moon, brake lens some time when mocking up the chassis, if it was that loose and fell out it would done the same thing on the rocks

but that's ok cause I had these other light buckets, and they look good and are small like Military brake lens

Lost a half moon brake lens, but with some bad comes some good

I got lucky, I found the broken door hinge piece Yeah Baby !!

And was able to re-attach it and the door works just like before, and some light sanding and some flat white, it won't look like it was broke at all

I got skills and might show a few ever now and then, but must of the time

Its put your helmet on cause its going to be a bumpy ride

[kgb424]

I'm thinking about putting the roof back on it

And mount the spare tire and make a rack and get some gas cans and water cans

I like the Humvee's in the pictures

I also got some pictures of a possible rear bumper

I could some of the extra plate from the chassis rails

It looks like a simple design

I also start on the roof, I removed the roof hatch and turret

and going to fill the hole with some styrene

Need to order some styrene sheets to fill in the hole

and maybe make a rack for the roof or just leave it blank and just some flat sections too cover the green area where the hatch was

[kgb424]

Ok I got a question for anybody

I was able to remove the front pillar and wind shield

then was able to remove to the glass

I want to cut the windshield so it is even with the top of the doors

so about an inch of it has to come out

the question is would I cut a inch out of the center correct ??

1. I would find the center of glass, from the top glass to the bottom of the glass in the windshield frame correct ??

2. then come up a 1/2'' and go down 1/2'' from the center line correct ??

that removes an inch plus I keep the top windshield and wipers

Is that the correct way do it ??

is there a different way to make it work ??

[kgb424]

I traced out the front windshield pillar on a piece of card board

I then cut out a 1'' wide strip to make it even with the top of the doors

It does not look right to me cause there is a gap in each corner ??

the dark penciled in area

Is it supposed too look like that ??

is the front windshield pillar supposed to be higher then the top of the doors ??

I just does not look right to me

Am I doing it wrong ??

or is that just the way it is going to look ??