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Old 12-02-2016, 12:24 PM   #21
I wanna be Dave
 
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

looking good

What's the wheel base gotta be ?

Is that clay knife ceramic ?

plastic shouldn't gouge... but a ceramic cutting edge is razor sharp
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:36 PM   #22
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Thanks, Taco Crawler! The wheel base is 16." And the knife is a hard plastic. It isn't sharp, but it has a decent edge like a butter knife.

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Old 12-02-2016, 02:45 PM   #23
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

16" !?

Dang that's only .5" longer then what my 1:6 TJ has.

I really thought a 1:6 scale truck would be longer.

Don't use that plastic knife to remove decals again !? Lol
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Old 12-02-2016, 02:59 PM   #24
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoCrawler View Post
16" !?

Dang that's only .5" longer then what my 1:6 TJ has.

I really thought a 1:6 scale truck would be longer.

Don't use that plastic knife to remove decals again !? Lol
This isn't a very big truck for its scale. At 10 1/2" wide by 25" long I think it's closer 1:8th scale which allows me to use Twin Hammers width suspension. I've seen other 1:6th scalers need full width Wraith axles. I have a couple of 1:6th Nikko H1 Hummers that are much bigger than this truck, too. One of them is next for a build.
And yes, what was I thinking? A knife to scrape off stickers? Bad idea.

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Old 12-02-2016, 08:07 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

I really don't see any damage to the hood, but if nothing else, blame it on hail damage. Looks good without the stickers, and like the look of the body-on shot, little more lift over the tires may not be all that bad, especially if you have enough weight on the chassis.
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:18 PM   #26
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Flea View Post
I really don't see any damage to the hood, but if nothing else, blame it on hail damage. Looks good without the stickers, and like the look of the body-on shot, little more lift over the tires may not be all that bad, especially if you have enough weight on the chassis.
"Scale hail damage" that's what I'm going with. It's really not too noticeable, just something I'm being picky about.
For the sake of COG I want to keep it as low as possible. I estimate it should be in the 10lb range since the drive train is mostly plastic from the Twin Hammers.

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Old 12-03-2016, 02:20 PM   #27
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150


This is the size difference between the Nikko H1 and the New Bright F-150. I can take measurements later if anyone needs to know.

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Old 12-15-2016, 02:07 PM   #28
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Progress has been dismal at best, but I've had grown up things to do like fix the plumbing and remodel the bathroom.
I have managed to fabricate servo mounts and come up with an idler arm



http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/585305c9ce290/IMAG0550.jpg?

Still have a lot of grinding to do, but it's coming along.

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Old 12-15-2016, 02:09 PM   #29
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

The link didn't upload right, so let's try this:


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Old 12-15-2016, 06:41 PM   #30
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

So what's yer plan for linking the driver side steering link
to the passenger side ?

Won't the rearward facing horn arm length
create intereference at that metal plate over-laying the differential ?

Maybe a shorter servo horn arm length...
/or 180* the horn so it's arm is facing forward rather then rearward ?

I've looked at other ifs fronts in factory kits...
and the ones I've seen utilize a bell crank design.

Not sure how a single drag link design could be made to work.
especially when the horn is not centered.

Got a plan ?

Fix yer home stuff... then get busy with this K ?
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:36 PM   #31
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoCrawler View Post
So what's yer plan for linking the driver side steering link
to the passenger side ?

Won't the rearward facing horn arm length
create intereference at that metal plate over-laying the differential ?

Maybe a shorter servo horn arm length...
/or 180* the horn so it's arm is facing forward rather then rearward ?

I've looked at other ifs fronts in factory kits...
and the ones I've seen utilize a bell crank design.

Not sure how a single drag link design could be made to work.
especially when the horn is not centered.

Got a plan ?

Fix yer home stuff... then get busy with this K ?
You bring up valid points, TacoCrawler. My plan to link the two sides is with an idler arm with a matching servo arm and drag link inbetween.
I tried multiple configurations of servo and arm placement, and the best set up with the least amount of bump steer was to have the arm facing the rear. I will have to clearance the diff bracket for the linkage, nothing a dremel can't deal with.
Here are some pictures to help explain:



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Old 12-15-2016, 08:43 PM   #32
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

...now it makes sense

thanks for posting that, now I can sleep easy

dremel work fixes everything
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:59 PM   #33
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

It bothered me that someone wasn't sure what was going on, so I owed it to you and the Internets.
The plan is to make the steering look and function similar to a real truck with the IFS would.
The Hammer Twins originally had a sliding rack behind the diff that worked in the place of a bell crank. That worked awesome with zero bump steer, but wouldn't clear the frame. So I came up with this as a problem to the solution.
Sleep easy, brotato

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Old 12-17-2016, 03:29 PM   #34
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

The steering linkage has been called into existence. Still have some tuning to do with the length of the center drag link and have to clearance the diff bracket, but overall I'm pretty happy with the set up.



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Old 12-17-2016, 07:04 PM   #35
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

looks good

is the idler horn on the passenger side fitted with ball bearings ?

Not yer typical bell crank design.

I'd guess the idler link will dictate the amount of steering throw ?

I'm a little confused as to the different pivot points
for the drag link (inner) and two outers.

Considering they are not in line with each other.

So how do the steering links react when turned fully L or R ?

Last edited by TacoCrawler; 12-17-2016 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:13 PM   #36
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoCrawler View Post
looks good

is the idler horn on the passenger side fitted with ball bearings ?

Not yer typical bell crank design.

I'd guess the idler link will dictate the amount of steering throw ?

I'm a little confused as to the different pivot points
for the drag link (inner) and two outers.

Considering they are not in line with each other.

So how do the steering links react when turned fully L or R ?
The answer to your questions are as follows:
-The idler arm has ball bearings. They are pressed into a section of 5/16" metal tube that was machined to accept them.
-Steering throw doesn't seem to be limited by the length or position of the drag link. I tested the servo without the outer tie rods and it swung evenly in both directions.
-The placement of the drag link is more from a lack of room, not some super secret geometric design. I would prefer to have the drag link in line with the tie rods.
-I have not been able to test full lock to lock steering since the outers hit the diff bracket. I don't think there will be any Ackerman effect initially. It did occur to me that it may be induced by making the drag link longer. I want to do this for two resons:
1. The knuckles are currently toed-in.
2. Dead center on Savox servos never seems to line up with whatever servo arm I use. I think I had to trim it out 15* left to get both servo arm and idler arm centered.
More trial and error will ensue.
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:04 AM   #37
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

This project hasn't gone to the wayside just yet. Other priorities and projects (bad ideas) have taken precedence. None the less, I managed to test the hare brained steering system. It worked pretty good with the weight of a 3S battery, electronics, and drive train.
My only concern is the placement of the center drag link due to clearance issues. The problem is that since it isn't connected to the same points on the servo arms as the outer tie rods, it can't transmit equal force to both tires. Basically, it turns tighter left than right. Anyway, here are some pictures:


Here is where I clearance the diff bracket for the outer tie rods:




And after all of this, I think this frame is going to be used for a different project. We'll see what happens. Until next time...

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Old 02-15-2017, 07:39 PM   #38
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

Quote:
Originally Posted by Piranha_GT View Post
So much motivation here, looks like I'll need to start a 1/6 next
Thanks Piranha_GT. I would recommend it. I have gone large scale crazy after starting this project. I'm building a sixty scale H1 Hummer now and am planning more than I can afford. It's an addiction...

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Old 03-05-2017, 12:18 PM   #39
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

This project has crossed a significant threshold on a personal level. I have recently learned of Ford Motor Company's business practices from the late seventies and cannot stand behind a company that is so driven by greed that the safety and well being of their customers.
We all know about the infamous Pinto, when rear-ended at low speed would crumple causing the doors to be jammed shut. That, combined with the placement of the fuel tank resulting in a puncture and a fire.
All this aside, millions of poorly built are sold by nearly every manufacturer in the world. What separates Ford from the others was their official stance on the issues of the Pinto. Executives were shown numerous results from actual accidents and crash tests, and they choose to not make an $11 per car modification that would solve the issue with fuel tank rupture and saving lives.
Roughly 180 people a year lost their lives in Pinto crashes, but Ford did not see a need to cut into their profit. Ford was the only automotive manufacturer in history to be brought up on murder charges.
Needless to say, the F-150 body was sold and was replaced by the Mud Slinger body:

Not long out of the box, the original frame was removed:


New Bright apparently could not make a licensed body, but the bed, tail lights, and tail gate are Dodge. The tail gate even has a raised area for the Ram emblem:


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Old 04-19-2017, 01:00 PM   #40
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Default Re: 1:6th New Bright Ford F-150

I have finally gotten around to working on this again. I decided to go with New Bright body, which is slightly smaller than the F-150 this project started off as. The wheel base is about an inch shorter, along with being 3/4" narrower. The wheel wells are smaller, too. So I'll have to use 1.9 wheels and tires. The larger Mickey Thompson Baja Claws TTC's at 4.75" on Pro 10 wheels fit perfectly.
The hood scoop bothered me, so it was cut out to be replaced by styrene. More on that later...

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